Wiring diagrams for system?

[h2osk8er00]

So I purchased all of the components for my new system and am anxiously awaiting to put them in. Im going to do all of the install myself with one of my friends but I wqas wondering if I could get somm 411 on the install. I have a 2001 21V Riders Edition... and I have dual batteries... Here is what I purchased and what I have... Thx to chpthril I got all of the goods for $860.00 which was well under my 1000.00 budget... even though I know wiring will probably take care of that extra 140.00 real quick..

Clarion CMD4A. Is there a difference between the CMD4 and the CMD4A?

Kicker KTM6 tower speakers and a zx450.2 Amp to power them

Kicker Comp VR 10 4 Ohm DVC

Kicker zx700.5 to power the cabin speakers and sub

I have the original Clarion speakers that came with the boat (4 - 6.5" I think)- which I might replace now too!

I have two wired remotes that were part of the old Clarion deck (XMD3)- Can I use the remotes from the XMD3 or do I need new ones? I think I want to get the newer style remotes but I need two and want to know if they are easy to replace. I was thinking the CMRC1 or CMRC2... ???? Anybody know which is better and if they will function well with the CMD4A that I bought already. I saw some other threads that said they were unsure so anyone that knows your help is appreciated!

I'm pretty sure the distrobution box is connected to the spare battery on the passenger side of the boat.

I would like a wiring diagram of some sort and possibly a website where I can get the wiring I need at a discount... I am re-doing all of the wiring.

Any research I can do to up my knowledge before I start this project will be greatly appreciated!

Mike

[chpthril]

You will need two 2-chnl RCA's - How far from the head-unit will the amps be mounted.

You'll need a circuit breaker. You'll need at least 150A and no more then 200A.

What length of power/ground cable will you need, i.e. how far is it from the battery to where the amps are going to be mounted. Dont measure in a straight line, but fallow the path of where the cable would need to run.

You will need apx 50' of speaker wire alone just to wire the tower. Are you rewiring the existing in-boats as well? If so, you will probably need 100" total for tower, sub, in-boats.

Clarion CMD4A. Is there a difference between the CMD4 and the CMD4A?

Yes, but I cant remember exactly what. I believe it had to do with compatibility for an Ipod interface that is no longer in production.

I have two wired remotes that were part of the old Clarion deck (XMD3)- Can I use the remotes from the XMD3 or do I need new ones? I think I want to get the newer style remotes but I need two and want to know if they are easy to replace. I was thinking the CMRC1 or CMRC2... ???? Anybody know which is better and if they will function well with the CMD4A that I bought already. I saw some other threads that said they were unsure so anyone that knows your help is appreciated!

Your current remotes should work with the CMD4A. If you're gonna step up to new remotes, then go with the LCD's, at least for the transom as it's nice to see the where you are at.

I'm pretty sure the distrobution box is connected to the spare battery on the passenger side of the boat.

The amps' power and ground need to be connected directly to the battery. This is due to both their current draw as well as gaining the "cleanest" connection to avoid unwanted noise.

[goose69]

I just wired mine, but to give you a diagram i can't help you. Just remember audio connection goes from radio to amp. Amp has three other wires going into it Positive and negative (from battery) and a remote wire from radio (usually blue). Then from the amp you wire in you speakers (front two on one channel and back to on second channel).turn the gain all the way down, turn radio to 80% volume the adjust gain up. To rerun our tower wires go to lowes and get so solid 14g wire (10ft) great for pulling new speaker wire. if you are going to replace inside speaker heres a deal and they sound great (i just got them)

http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-KM620-2-M...item48395baf55

[h2osk8er00]

You will need two 2-chnl RCA's - How far from the head-unit will the amps be mounted.

You'll need a circuit breaker. You'll need at least 150A and no more then 200A.

What length of power/ground cable will you need, i.e. how far is it from the battery to where the amps are going to be mounted. Dont measure in a straight line, but fallow the path of where the cable would need to run.

You will need apx 50' of speaker wire alone just to wire the tower. Are you rewiring the existing in-boats as well? If so, you will probably need 100" total for tower, sub, in-boats.


Yes, but I cant remember exactly what. I believe it had to do with compatibility for an Ipod interface that is no longer in production.



Your current remotes should work with the CMD4A. If you're gonna step up to new remotes, then go with the LCD's, at least for the transom as it's nice to see the where you are at.



The amps' power and ground need to be connected directly to the battery. This is due to both their current draw as well as gaining the "cleanest" connection to avoid unwanted noise.

I have so many question and I hope you have the patience to hear/read me out!

So I went home last night and the HU that I have is actually the XMD-2! "Samposinte...I was way off!" Anyway.. I think I will end up replacing the remotes... that transom for sure. hopefully the connection on the back of them hasn't changed but I imiagine since the newer one has an LED that it will... Am I right?

So I guess I will look for the "CMRC-1s", which look to run for about 90 bucks per remote(w/no wire). Sound about right?

Secondly, thanks for starting to get my head in to stereo mode. I have been reading thread after thread to figure out how to do this right, but I just really enjoy all of the since that goes behind stereo making as I have heard a lot of crappy systems that make me laugh... I'm over having the deepest base hits that can rattle your screws loose... but I do however wanna make that 10 bumb as much as possible due to all of the highs and mids I will have in the boat.

I have been reading a lot about some sort of box that you can make where the stock sub comes. Right now the sub just sits in there and you can see the beack of it when accessing the storage compartment in front of the driver... So what I have been thinking about is making my own box for the sub but the space looks tight! Do i have to put the box together after it is in there and what is my best way of doing this.

So I'm going to have 1/0 gauge wire from the spare battery running to the amps... Or should I run two off it since I have two amps. I didn't know if I could simply split the other off of the marine circuit bix I'm going to install.. (Of which I have no clue where to buy- I've always used In-line fuses) also, will the head unit of the stereo need to be wired through the marine box or from the distrobution box or directly to the battery? I'm pretty certain the old one was wired off of the distrobution box and the amp was off of the battery with an in-line fuse (60A fuse if I recall right).

I'm pretty good with the color matching and looking up different colors for the rear of the stereo.. If they havent changed much since 2000 at least. From what I remember, the stereo should have wires that I will have to connect to the speaker wire I have yet to buy, and I match it up in according to where the speakers are in the boat.

I think the Sub should have its own RCA cable (red and white) that have to be pluged in the 750 watt amp from the HU, and the sub speaker wire will go directly into the amp on a pos and neg channel(probably #5 since 1-4 will be committed to the cabin speakers). I know the tower speakers will be going straight off of the 450 Watt amp, but how do I get the sound from that amp to the speakers... Does it use one of the preamp outputs on the HU?

The cabin speaker will use a harness from the amp to the HU to get the extra power or do I need to run the speaker wires through the amp instead of the HU?

Now this is where I get confuesed and sometimes start just touching wires together and sparks fly...JK

However, I have previously had to make a tiny wire that plugged the positive and the RMS(I think this is a different RMS and has to do with a remote Signal- no like a wattage RMS that tells the wattage a speaker can run at... I.e. 300W RMS) together to keep the amp on. I'm pretty sure you're supposed to use the blue wire from the HU but my old stereo had faulty wiring and never turned the amp on, so I used that horrible method and it seemed to work (my bad).. lol

I know not all HU are universal but I'm just trying to speak semantics until I understand how the stereo stuff works. I should buy a stereo for dummies book, I know... But I get lost reading those even!

Wiring the tower speakers looks like it is going to be a pain because I hate seeing exposed wire...I'm guessing I will be able to hide some of it unfer the foam padding and the rest I will pull tight and secure with hard to see Zip-ties(Black in my case since the tower is black)?

Here are some features I would like the Stereo to have..

I saw a lot of threads about putting in the stereo switch with a music emblem next to the other switches on my dash... so I definitely want to do that as music is importan to me and I don't want to have the key in to run the stereo..

I saw a couple of items to actually run a mic that looks like a CB radio through your woer speakers... I think this would be a great accessory and not to hard to do once I have everything in...

Another Idea I have and I welcome anybody to take the bait and run with it, but what do you think about a "Kareoke Boat"!?!?! I would like to be able to plug in a mic and let people sing on the sandbar if they so please. Im not going to go into making a video screen or anything...just something for the drinking buddies to stay amused... Namely I wanna be able to talk to my wakeboarder so that we can be on the same page.

I know this is a lot of info but I really do thank everyine for the input.. Especially you Mike... And thanks goose for the speaker advice... would you recommend those 6.5 kickers for the boat as well...

I picked up some cash in Bestbuy money and was wondering if I should just go there to get all of my wiring or am I better getting non name brand stuff at like home depot or do-it-yourself type stores?

Man I'm excited... I will def post pictures once I start and all of this knowledge you have given me thus far will not go to waste, as well as it will be passed on to the next!


Keep it Real,

Mike

[h2osk8er00]

I just wired mine, but to give you a diagram i can't help you. Just remember audio connection goes from radio to amp. Amp has three other wires going into it Positive and negative (from battery) and a remote wire from radio (usually blue). Then from the amp you wire in you speakers (front two on one channel and back to on second channel).turn the gain all the way down, turn radio to 80% volume the adjust gain up. To rerun our tower wires go to lowes and get so solid 14g wire (10ft) great for pulling new speaker wire. if you are going to replace inside speaker heres a deal and they sound great (i just got them)

http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-KM620-2-M...item48395baf55

I think I will get those if I get the go-ahead from Mike... I found them priced about 70 for 2... sound good? I love how if you buy a product that is a couple years old you can get it for a huge discount...It's like christmas for my boat. I know stereo equipment changes yearly but I have yet to hear the difference in my ears...so for now the sound of money in the bank is better... as long as I still buy quality I don't feel you can go wrong with a product with a great name like Kicker... Thanks for the help!

Dumb question as I know I can look on the back of the speaker once I uncover my boat... but do you know if the tige clarion speakers that come stock are 6 or 6.5?

[chpthril]

I have so many question and I hope you have the patience to hear/read me out!

So I went home last night and the HU that I have is actually the XMD-2! "Samposinte...I was way off!" Anyway.. I think I will end up replacing the remotes... that transom for sure. hopefully the connection on the back of them hasn't changed but I imiagine since the newer one has an LED that it will... Am I right?

So I guess I will look for the "CMRC-1s", which look to run for about 90 bucks per remote(w/no wire). Sound about right?

Secondly, thanks for starting to get my head in to stereo mode. I have been reading thread after thread to figure out how to do this right, but I just really enjoy all of the since that goes behind stereo making as I have heard a lot of crappy systems that make me laugh... I'm over having the deepest base hits that can rattle your screws loose... but I do however wanna make that 10 bumb as much as possible due to all of the highs and mids I will have in the boat.

I have been reading a lot about some sort of box that you can make where the stock sub comes. Right now the sub just sits in there and you can see the beack of it when accessing the storage compartment in front of the driver... So what I have been thinking about is making my own box for the sub but the space looks tight! Do i have to put the box together after it is in there and what is my best way of doing this.

So I'm going to have 1/0 gauge wire from the spare battery running to the amps... Or should I run two off it since I have two amps. I didn't know if I could simply split the other off of the marine circuit bix I'm going to install.. (Of which I have no clue where to buy- I've always used In-line fuses) also, will the head unit of the stereo need to be wired through the marine box or from the distrobution box or directly to the battery? I'm pretty certain the old one was wired off of the distrobution box and the amp was off of the battery with an in-line fuse (60A fuse if I recall right).

I'm pretty good with the color matching and looking up different colors for the rear of the stereo.. If they havent changed much since 2000 at least. From what I remember, the stereo should have wires that I will have to connect to the speaker wire I have yet to buy, and I match it up in according to where the speakers are in the boat.

I think the Sub should have its own RCA cable (red and white) that have to be pluged in the 750 watt amp from the HU, and the sub speaker wire will go directly into the amp on a pos and neg channel(probably #5 since 1-4 will be committed to the cabin speakers). I know the tower speakers will be going straight off of the 450 Watt amp, but how do I get the sound from that amp to the speakers... Does it use one of the preamp outputs on the HU?

The cabin speaker will use a harness from the amp to the HU to get the extra power or do I need to run the speaker wires through the amp instead of the HU?

Now this is where I get confuesed and sometimes start just touching wires together and sparks fly...JK

However, I have previously had to make a tiny wire that plugged the positive and the RMS(I think this is a different RMS and has to do with a remote Signal- no like a wattage RMS that tells the wattage a speaker can run at... I.e. 300W RMS) together to keep the amp on. I'm pretty sure you're supposed to use the blue wire from the HU but my old stereo had faulty wiring and never turned the amp on, so I used that horrible method and it seemed to work (my bad).. lol

I know not all HU are universal but I'm just trying to speak semantics until I understand how the stereo stuff works. I should buy a stereo for dummies book, I know... But I get lost reading those even!

Wiring the tower speakers looks like it is going to be a pain because I hate seeing exposed wire...I'm guessing I will be able to hide some of it unfer the foam padding and the rest I will pull tight and secure with hard to see Zip-ties(Black in my case since the tower is black)?

Here are some features I would like the Stereo to have..

I saw a lot of threads about putting in the stereo switch with a music emblem next to the other switches on my dash... so I definitely want to do that as music is importan to me and I don't want to have the key in to run the stereo..

I saw a couple of items to actually run a mic that looks like a CB radio through your woer speakers... I think this would be a great accessory and not to hard to do once I have everything in...

Another Idea I have and I welcome anybody to take the bait and run with it, but what do you think about a "Kareoke Boat"!?!?! I would like to be able to plug in a mic and let people sing on the sandbar if they so please. Im not going to go into making a video screen or anything...just something for the drinking buddies to stay amused... Namely I wanna be able to talk to my wakeboarder so that we can be on the same page.

I know this is a lot of info but I really do thank everyine for the input.. Especially you Mike... And thanks goose for the speaker advice... would you recommend those 6.5 kickers for the boat as well...

I picked up some cash in Bestbuy money and was wondering if I should just go there to get all of my wiring or am I better getting non name brand stuff at like home depot or do-it-yourself type stores?

Man I'm excited... I will def post pictures once I start and all of this knowledge you have given me thus far will not go to waste, as well as it will be passed on to the next!


Keep it Real,

Mike

Danm dude, it's too late on a Sat night to read this much Course I best not reply to it till I sleep off the buzz

J/k I'm more then happy to source everything you need, if you want, as well as help you get it all set right to. Check back later for more

[h2osk8er00]

Danm dude, it's too late on a Sat night to read this much Course I best not reply to it till I sleep off the buzz

J/k I'm more then happy to source everything you need, if you want, as well as help you get it all set right to. Check back later for more

Ha HA- The only reason I was able to write so much is beacuse I am sober...Only because I'm working.. Ha Ha.. Thx for the help and I had no idea I had writen so much... Guess I'm just a curious fella... I saw some threads about the boat show man... Hope all went well and your designs were a hit... I have been writing non stop on this forum and a Ford Bronco forum because I have a million problem with that... Luckily my boat is getting the cooler toys as the truck just needs some TLC... Sleep it off big guy and get back to me when you can... Later!

[chpthril]

Ok, here goes............again. I spent 2 hrs Sunday morning composing a reply, and when I went to post, it all disapeared.

I saw a lot of threads about putting in the stereo switch with a music emblem next to the other switches on my dash... so I definitely want to do that as music is importan to me and I don't want to have the key in to run the stereo..

You can get the Carling switch covers from your local Skiers Choice (Moomba/Supra) dealer for >$10

I saw a couple of items to actually run a mic that looks like a CB radio through your woer speakers... I think this would be a great accessory and not to hard to do once I have everything in...

Another Idea I have and I welcome anybody to take the bait and run with it, but what do you think about a "Kareoke Boat"!?!?! I would like to be able to plug in a mic and let people sing on the sandbar if they so please. Im not going to go into making a video screen or anything...just something for the drinking buddies to stay amused... Namely I wanna be able to talk to my wakeboarder so that we can be on the same page.

These are quite popular, and they can actually offer other beneficial features such as a line driver (increase signal strength for better sound quality), AUX input for MP3 players, independent volume controls, and equalizers.

Out of the 3 I have, by far the Wet Sounds WS-420 is the best and offer the most features. http://www.wetsounds.com/pages/products/WS-420.html

Bazooka and Boss Audio also offer a MIC. The Bazooka has an AUX, but no line driver, the Boss has no AUX.

I know this is a lot of info but I really do thank everyine for the input.. Especially you Mike... And thanks goose for the speaker advice... would you recommend those 6.5 kickers for the boat as well...

Those are great speakers, I actually use quite a bit of the new versions, KM6250.2. Those are just the old style, but Moomba still uses them today.

I picked up some cash in Bestbuy money and was wondering if I should just go there to get all of my wiring or am I better getting non name brand stuff at like home depot or do-it-yourself type stores?

Hard to pass up free money, but at retail pricing, you wont come away with a lot, and it's nothing special. Maybe some speaker wire and a couple RCA's.

My RCA's run about $8 a pair and bulk speaker wire for about $.20 p/ft

[chpthril]

Secondly, thanks for starting to get my head in to stereo mode. I have been reading thread after thread to figure out how to do this right, but I just really enjoy all of the since that goes behind stereo making as I have heard a lot of crappy systems that make me laugh... I'm over having the deepest base hits that can rattle your screws loose... but I do however wanna make that 10 bumb as much as possible due to all of the highs and mids I will have in the boat.

When you get to that point, we can help you get it set and tuned right.

I have been reading a lot about some sort of box that you can make where the stock sub comes. Right now the sub just sits in there and you can see the beack of it when accessing the storage compartment in front of the driver... So what I have been thinking about is making my own box for the sub but the space looks tight! Do i have to put the box together after it is in there and what is my best way of doing this.

You will not need a sub enclosure with the CompVr 10, Providing your bulk-head wall is a solid wall so it will provide isolation of the front a rear of the sub. I believe it does, so your sub install should be as simple as pull out the old, wire up the new, drop it in.

So I'm going to have 1/0 gauge wire from the spare battery running to the amps... Or should I run two off it since I have two amps. I didn't know if I could simply split the other off of the marine circuit bix I'm going to install.. (Of which I have no clue where to buy- I've always used In-line fuses) also, will the head unit of the stereo need to be wired through the marine box or from the distrobution box or directly to the battery? I'm pretty certain the old one was wired off of the distrobution box and the amp was off of the battery with an in-line fuse (60A fuse if I recall right).

The amps' power and ground need to be wired directly to the battery for 2 reasons. This provides the best defence against unwanted noise being induced into the system as well as the battery is about the only place that can handle the load.

The cleanest install is to run a single POS and single NEG from the battery to the amp area and then split off with 2 distrobution block with short runs of 4ga to the amps.

You will need some sort of circuit protection on the amp's POS cable within 18" of the battery. Some use a typical automobile amp fuse holder, but I prefer a marine rated manual reset circuit breaker. They are ignition protected so they are safe to locate anywhere in the boat and can be used as a master on/off switch.

1/0 runs $1.25 ft
4ga runs $.65 ft
Non-fused distribution blocks $12 ea
Breaker $35-$45

I'm pretty good with the color matching and looking up different colors for the rear of the stereo.. If they havent changed much since 2000 at least. From what I remember, the stereo should have wires that I will have to connect to the speaker wire I have yet to buy, and I match it up in according to where the speakers are in the boat.

None of the speaker will be wired to the head-unit, they will all go directly to the amps. I would recommend that the H/U's yellow "Memory" and black "Ground" should be relocated to the amp's power and ground lugs. This is the next step in have a noise free system.

If you already have an amp, there will be a wire there somewhere for the amp's remote turn-on. For the 2nd amp, just daisy-chain from the 1st.

I think the Sub should have its own RCA cable (red and white) that have to be pluged in the 750 watt amp from the HU, and the sub speaker wire will go directly into the amp on a pos and neg channel(probably #5 since 1-4 will be committed to the cabin speakers). I know the tower speakers will be going straight off of the 450 Watt amp, but how do I get the sound from that amp to the speakers... Does it use one of the preamp outputs on the HU?

Cool thing about 700.5, is that it will pass through to all chnls with only one set of RCA's plugged into "Amp1" left and right inputs. The 700.5 also has a remote sub volume control knob.

The 450.2 will only need one set of RCA's as well.

Use the H/U's "Front" RCA outputs to run to the 700.5 and the "Rear" outputs to the 450.2

The cabin speaker will use a harness from the amp to the HU to get the extra power or do I need to run the speaker wires through the amp instead of the HU?

Speaker wires go directly to the amp.

Now this is where I get confuesed and sometimes start just touching wires together and sparks fly...JK

However, I have previously had to make a tiny wire that plugged the positive and the RMS(I think this is a different RMS and has to do with a remote Signal- no like a wattage RMS that tells the wattage a speaker can run at... I.e. 300W RMS) together to keep the amp on. I'm pretty sure you're supposed to use the blue wire from the HU but my old stereo had faulty wiring and never turned the amp on, so I used that horrible method and it seemed to work (my bad).. lol

I know not all HU are universal but I'm just trying to speak semantics until I understand how the stereo stuff works. I should buy a stereo for dummies book, I know... But I get lost reading those even!

Wiring the tower speakers looks like it is going to be a pain because I hate seeing exposed wire...I'm guessing I will be able to hide some of it unfer the foam padding and the rest I will pull tight and secure with hard to see Zip-ties(Black in my case since the tower is black)?

Hmmm, sounds like you have the infamous Metcraft tower. Most towers allow for most, if not all, of the wire to be fished through the tower. If you do a search, you should find some pics of other Metcraft tower installs.

[h2osk8er00]

Rock On!

Wow.. Thanks again.. I will surely put this info to good use.. im anxiously awaiting all of the goods to be delivered... Look like they'll be here before the end of the week! I'm also goin to see if I can fit the boat into a garage somewhere to get started on the project sooner so that I can take my time and be ready for when the first day of warm weather hits...feels like it will never come but it will be gone before I know it.. I will be sure to take some pics as soon at the project starts and welcome any and all advice. I would also like to purchase the wiring through you if that is cool. Just estimate some lengths and prices and I'll get you a money order, check, paypal, or whatever you need.. I was looking at some of the wiring packages and half the crap I won't use and the other half seemed to be paying for the brand. I saw some sets were asking like 200! Hopefully you can get me out the door better than that! Ha, Thanks Mike... We will be in touch...

[chpthril]

Wow.. Thanks again.. I will surely put this info to good use.. im anxiously awaiting all of the goods to be delivered... Look like they'll be here before the end of the week! I'm also goin to see if I can fit the boat into a garage somewhere to get started on the project sooner so that I can take my time and be ready for when the first day of warm weather hits...feels like it will never come but it will be gone before I know it.. I will be sure to take some pics as soon at the project starts and welcome any and all advice. I would also like to purchase the wiring through you if that is cool. Just estimate some lengths and prices and I'll get you a money order, check, paypal, or whatever you need.. I was looking at some of the wiring packages and half the crap I won't use and the other half seemed to be paying for the brand. I saw some sets were asking like 200! Hopefully you can get me out the door better than that! Ha, Thanks Mike... We will be in touch...

Answer me a couple of questions, and I can fix you up with what you need. How far is it from the battery to the area where you will mount the amp, but not a straight line, needs to be how the cable might run. how far from the head-unit to the amps, Last, did I read correctly that you plan to rewire all the speakers?


Shoot me an email with you contact info and zip, and i'll reply back with an est. info(at)mikesliquidaudio(dot)com

[h2osk8er00]

Answer me a couple of questions, and I can fix you up with what you need. How far is it from the battery to the area where you will mount the amp, but not a straight line, needs to be how the cable might run. how far from the head-unit to the amps, Last, did I read correctly that you plan to rewire all the speakers?


Shoot me an email with you contact info and zip, and i'll reply back with an est. info(at)mikesliquidaudio(dot)com

I will get all the info in the next 3 days or so.. we have come weather coming in and work is keeping me busy....Plus my Bronco has been keeping me busy as well! But I will get all the measurements soon and let you know. The speakers wires will be getting redone as well... I think they suffered some water damage...especially the sub..when the heater core went out... In fact.. Have you ever heard of that messing a stereo up per se... Because last summer the system seemed to be fine and then the heater core flooded the sub-woofer and the stereo just cut out... just curious... Anyway... so you want me to email you on here or at "info@mikesliquidaudio.com"?

Thx MIke

[chpthril]

I will get all the info in the next 3 days or so.. we have come weather coming in and work is keeping me busy....Plus my Bronco has been keeping me busy as well! But I will get all the measurements soon and let you know. The speakers wires will be getting redone as well... I think they suffered some water damage...especially the sub..when the heater core went out... In fact.. Have you ever heard of that messing a stereo up per se... Because last summer the system seemed to be fine and then the heater core flooded the sub-woofer and the stereo just cut out... just curious... Anyway... so you want me to email you on here or at "info@mikesliquidaudio.com"?

Thx MIke

Yes, that's my un-encrypted email Shoot me an email, and i'll reply back with an estimate. Depending on the length of power cable, you're looking at between $125-$160 for all the install supplies.

[jrj701]

H2O, I was reading your post with all the questions and saw you were talking about building a sub box and worried about getting it thru the small door to the storage area. I am just wrapping up my install with much help from members on here especially Chpthril. He suggested putting 2 10" subs on the bulkhead wall under the drivers dash. After talking to Phil from Kicker he said I would need 2 cf of box although going up to 3 cf would be even better. Well after looking at the door I would have to squeeze it thru, it became obvious that I would have to do a lot of work with cardboard templates to figure out the shape and size. After some trial and error I came up with what I wanted to use and cut all the wood (3/4 Birch plywood). I then pre drilled all the screw holes and completely dry assembled it to make sure it fit together right.. I then tore it down and figured out how much of it could be assembled prior to squeezing it in the hole. I glued and screwed that portion and put it in the hole. After that, and here comes the hard part, I finished the assembly in the compartment. I built a 5 sided box and used the boats bulkhead wall as the sixth side. Once the 2 10” cutouts were made in the bulkhead I was able to reach inside the box to finish screwing it together and seal all the seams. I originally painted all the box parts with truck bed paint, but will probably go ahead and add carpet to all the exterior areas I can. It was a major pain, but I ended up with 2.75 cf in the end. I will try and get some pictures posted of the finished product asap.

[chpthril]

H2O, I was reading your post with all the questions and saw you were talking about building a sub box and worried about getting it thru the small door to the storage area. I am just wrapping up my install with much help from members on here especially Chpthril. He suggested putting 2 10" subs on the bulkhead wall under the drivers dash. After talking to Phil from Kicker he said I would need 2 cf of box although going up to 3 cf would be even better. Well after looking at the door I would have to squeeze it thru, it became obvious that I would have to do a lot of work with cardboard templates to figure out the shape and size. After some trial and error I came up with what I wanted to use and cut all the wood (3/4 Birch plywood). I then pre drilled all the screw holes and completely dry assembled it to make sure it fit together right.. I then tore it down and figured out how much of it could be assembled prior to squeezing it in the hole. I glued and screwed that portion and put it in the hole. After that, and here comes the hard part, I finished the assembly in the compartment. I built a 5 sided box and used the boats bulkhead wall as the sixth side. Once the 2 10” cutouts were made in the bulkhead I was able to reach inside the box to finish screwing it together and seal all the seams. I originally painted all the box parts with truck bed paint, but will probably go ahead and add carpet to all the exterior areas I can. It was a major pain, but I ended up with 2.75 cf in the end. I will try and get some pictures posted of the finished product asap.

Cant wait to see the pics