Stereo upgrade ideas

[jrj701]

JRJ,

did you have to build the box because you installed two speakers, or were they not free air speakers.

I have a 12 wetsounds that I am going to trade in on a 10 F/A and was looking at the spot where I am going to install and thought that 2 could fit there easily! The 12 won't really fit becasue I don't want to totally loose the space back there. Besides, the stearing cable is on the back side (where the box would go) and it wouldn't allow for the space needed for a box.
sorry for all of the info when I was just wondering if you could run two free air subs without a box. Thanks and great job on the install!!!

Chpthrl is always a big help!!! and has great info about stereo stuff for boats. Thanks for always being so helpful and willing to answer everyones questions!

Kvon, I did not use free air speakers. I won a Toys for tots Christmas auction thru Wakeworld and the subs were included so I went ahead and used them. As far as I know you can run 2 free air subs in the same wall with no issues which is what I probably would have done if not for winning the auction.

[Kvon]

Thanks JRJ!!!

This will help me plan where put my first 10 . for me it will be a work in progress. I have number three kiddo on the way so I need to push the fundage to the new kiddo .

It's all good.

i love your set up!! I am sure it rocks. I am planning on hitting the lake next weekend. The weather is sweet in H-town.
Take care and thanks again.
kvon

[philwsailz]

That looks great; really digging the dual 10" setup. That KM10 woofer is a good one, and two on the digital subwoofer section of the amp is perfect!

Nice work!

Phil
Kicker

[chpthril]

That looks great; really digging the dual 10" setup. That KM10 woofer is a good one, and two on the digital subwoofer section of the amp is perfect!

Nice work!

Phil
Kicker

I hope to have some finished pics of another pair under the helm of a Bu!

[jrj701]

Well I started to work on tuning the system since it is getting warm enough to get the boat out, and have a question. when I turn the ignition key off with the stereo on I get a loud pop thru the speakers. Is this normal or am I missing something? I can always turn the head unit off prior to shutting off the ignition, but that seems like it could get old real quick. I did take some suggestions from this site and used a relay to get my head unit power from the amps power source. Do I need to switch the radio from one of the accessory rockers and not the ignition switch?

[chpthril]

Well I started to work on tuning the system since it is getting warm enough to get the boat out, and have a question. when I turn the ignition key off with the stereo on I get a loud pop thru the speakers. Is this normal or am I missing something? I can always turn the head unit off prior to shutting off the ignition, but that seems like it could get old real quick. I did take some suggestions from this site and used a relay to get my head unit power from the amps power source. Do I need to switch the radio from one of the accessory rockers and not the ignition switch?

Explain how you wired up and are using the relay! When you say "used a relay to get my head unit power from the amps power source" which wire on the head-unit is the relay controlling, the red "switched" or yellow "constant"? If it's the yellow, you're killing the power to the head-unit before the head-unit has a chance to power down the amp(s).

A diagram of what you did would help.

[jrj701]

Explain how you wired up and are using the relay! When you say "used a relay to get my head unit power from the amps power source" which wire on the head-unit is the relay controlling, the red "switched" or yellow "constant"? If it's the yellow, you're killing the power to the head-unit before the head-unit has a chance to power down the amp(s).

A diagram of what you did would help.

I will have to take a look at it. I followed a schematic that I found in another post. I need to make sure I have everything identical to the diagram and then I will post what i did.

[jrj701]

Here is the schematic I used. Phil had posted it in another thread. I did use both relays as he shows, I just need to make sure I have my exactly as shown.

[fog_ducker]

Hey,
I'll be posting pics soon. I bought a 2010 RZ2 that came with a Wet Sounds 10 FA free air sub. The system had the Syn6 Wet Sounds amp with channels 5/6 bridged down to the sub. When I heard the factory system, I was less than impressed. Not knowing much about free air subs, I took a chance on adding a second 10 FA which I had installed under the port side bench. The key to these subs is as chpthril was saying, lots of power. First of all, when I added an Exile 1200.1 at 1 ohm (as they are rated for this) to the two 10's, I was blown away by how tight and punchy they were without an enclosure. They far exceeded my expectations (as well as the installer's for that matter!). Keep in mind I do not listen to Rap, although I did play some bass heavy numbers through just out of curiosity and was also impressed. If you are playing a lot of bass heavy stuff though, Wet Sounds makes two types of 12" subs but require enclosures. I wasn't prepared to lose any more storage so opted not to go this way as I have the surf ballast system. I'm running Samson 57HD's on the tower http://www.samsonsports.com/wakeboar...kers.html#s7hd
powered by an Exile 600.4. (Plan to double up with the 9" version due out next year.) So now I have the Wet Sounds Syn 6 running the 6 Wet Sounds XS 650's in the boat. This system is the loudest, cleanest I have heard to date.

[wellspun]

In regards to the Wet Sounds 420, I installed one last year, along with 2 pairs of the 650's, and I'm more than satisfied. The thing rocks, and works out perfectly when going directly in with an ipod.

I currently have 2 pairs of Wet Sounds P80's coming, and waiting on a back order for 2 Syn4 amps to power 'em. I'm super excited, and will post pics when it happens (hopefully in the next 2 weeks).

Past that, I'm running 2 10" subs in boxes under the helm, but want to switch those out ASAP, cash being the deciding factor. You can't go wrong with the Wet Sounds EQ tho, IMO.

[chpthril]

Well I started to work on tuning the system since it is getting warm enough to get the boat out, and have a question. when I turn the ignition key off with the stereo on I get a loud pop thru the speakers. Is this normal or am I missing something? I can always turn the head unit off prior to shutting off the ignition, but that seems like it could get old real quick. I did take some suggestions from this site and used a relay to get my head unit power from the amps power source. Do I need to switch the radio from one of the accessory rockers and not the ignition switch?

Any update?

[jrj701]

Any update?

I haven't been down to my storage yet to check on the wiring, but after looking at the schematic I followed, I'm wondering if I accidentally ran the yellow wire to terminal 87 instead of 30. Wouldn't this not allow the radio time to power down as you suggested earlier?

[chpthril]

I haven't been down to my storage yet to check on the wiring, but after looking at the schematic I followed, I'm wondering if I accidentally ran the yellow wire to terminal 87 instead of 30. Wouldn't this not allow the radio time to power down as you suggested earlier?

As the diagram is drawn, terminal 87 is the switched terminal. When the Key is turned off, the relay opens the connection between 30 and 87, therefore killing the head-unit dead. This does not allow it time to turn off the amps, and then shut itself down. The head-unit's yellow wire is the memory, and needs to stay hot, and the red wire is the H/U's remote turn-on, and should be the only wire on Terminal 87.

[jrj701]

Sounds good. I need to get down to take a look at it. I bet I have both the red and yellow on 87. Thanks.

[philwsailz]

As the diagram is drawn, terminal 87 is the switched terminal. When the Key is turned off, the relay opens the connection between 30 and 87, therefore killing the head-unit dead. This does not allow it time to turn off the amps, and then shut itself down. The head-unit's yellow wire is the memory, and needs to stay hot, and the red wire is the H/U's remote turn-on, and should be the only wire on Terminal 87.

No, sorry-

I am going to step on Mike's toes, and I know he will not mind...

The way it is drawn is correct, even though my use of 30 and 87 is sort of backwards. If you follow the path of current from the battery to the head unit, you will see that the yellow wire is connected in common to the red wire to a wire that goes to the amp's power terminal. It is connected at the relay to prevent a redundant wire from going all the way to the battery. Study it further and you will realize that the yellow memory wire as shown in the drawing is constantly energized, and the red ignition wire is the only one being switched...

Phil
Kicker