Just got my first Tige, a2007 22ve. It has a basic 4 in boat speaker system with the Clarion CMD5 deck. I have read many stereo upgrade posts here and it seems that chpthril and phil are the guys to talk to. Here’s a line up of what I am thinking. For the in boat speakers I’m thinking either the Kicker 6200 or 6250. I currently have a set in the bow and a set in the rear at the port corner and behind the driver’s seat. I would like to add a 3rd set. I have seen them in the area above the cup holders on the port side next to the driver’s seat and in the bulk head under the driver’s side dash. Is that where Tige puts them when ordered with the boat? Of course I also want to add a sub, and have seen many examples from other owners. Should I build a box or go with the free air? If a box, ported or sealed? Single or dual VC. I would like to use all Kicker components, and it looks like the amp to power the in boat and sub is the Mx 700.5. How exactly is it wired when using the 6 in cabin speaker set up with a single sub? As far as the tower setup goes, I'm patiently waiting to see the new set up that CHP mentioned in another thread. Based on that, what would the best amp be for the tower? I would like to start compiling components so I can complete the upgrade thru the winter.
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As soon as I have pricing on the new KM65002's, I will post up. For an amp, the new MZX450.2 will be a great choice (75W's to each speaker), but I wouldn't hesitate to go with the zx550.2 (100 watts to each speaker with the 4 speaker set or 90 watts to ea if you upgraded to another set of of the mids)
For the sub, it's all about how much THUMP you want. This will also dictate which amp you need to go with and what size enclosure, if one is needed.
I am a real fan of the CompVR 10" "free air" sub, I install them quite often. When powered right it will actually hit pretty hard and gives the boat a very well rounded system with a lot of punch without breaking the bank. It will handle 400+ watts which makes it a perfect pairing for the MX700.5 amp. The drivers bulk-head wall is perforated for a 10" sub as well as a 6" speaker. There may be room for 2 KM-10's on that wall, but they need a sealed enclosure behind them. 2 of these is also a perfect fit with the MX700.5 as they will get 210 watts each. There may be room for the 6" speaker in the stock location, but I need to check on that. If you want to make ripples in the water, you will need a 12" pushing 1000+ watts.
Enclosure: if you go with a sub that will work with either a sealed or ported, I would almost say go with the ported enclosure........providing you have room for a proper sized box. But it's also listen pleasure.
Cabin speakers: Phil could probably give you more details on what is different between the KM6200 and the KM6250 comps. Both have a 6" cone, but the 6250 has a 1" tweeter compared to the 6200's .75" tweeter. If you budget permits, go with the components, but you would not be disappointed with either.
As noted, the 5th factory speaker location is under the helm, and the 6th above the cup holders by the cooler. If you go with a free-air sub, I recommend a baffle over the back of the speaker under the helm as it and the sub are sharing the same air back there.
Wiring 6 speakers on 4 chnls is easy: the 2 in the bow will go on chnl 1 and 2. The 2 port side main cabins will be wired in parallel (+ to +, - to -) and go on chnl 3 and the 2 stb side main cabins the same way on chnl 4.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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I had free air subs in a Iroc Camaro, and loved them. Just wasn't sure about a boat. I like the idea, since it would be much easier. I don't really need to ripple the water, as I'm sure the wife would not appriciate it since the kids will be along most of the time. That being said, i still want to be able to rock when i want to.
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Originally posted by jrj701 View PostI had free air subs in a Iroc Camaro, and loved them. Just wasn't sure about a boat. I like the idea, since it would be much easier. I don't really need to ripple the water, as I'm sure the wife would not appriciate it since the kids will be along most of the time. That being said, i still want to be able to rock when i want to.
Anyone that says a "free air" sub sucks, either has it under powered, not tuned right, or is doing an apples to oranges comparison to the performance of a 1000 watt L7.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Sounds like what i need to do. I was also thinking about adding the wet sounds 420 eq since it sounds like i will be able to adjust volume levels between the tower and in boat speakers. Would this be a worthwhile investment or is there a better option? Also, would that control the sub volume, eliminating the need to use the control that comes with the amp?
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Originally posted by jrj701 View PostSounds like what i need to do. I was also thinking about adding the wet sounds 420 eq since it sounds like i will be able to adjust volume levels between the tower and in boat speakers. Would this be a worthwhile investment or is there a better option? Also, would that control the sub volume, eliminating the need to use the control that comes with the amp?Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Originally posted by jrj701 View PostDo you prefer one over the other?Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Hi jrj701,
Just wanted to clarify about the WS-420. The WS-420 is TWO EQ's in one chassis. Where all the others eq's around are normal single eq's. With the WS-420 you have independent volume and independent eq adjustments. Think of it this way. The WS-420 is TWO separate single eq's plus the microphone all in one half din chassis.
So you can dial in the towers separate from the in boats. For instance, more highs on the tower with less bass to get more volume out of them. More mid bass from the in boats with less highs since they are closer to you etc..The other single EQ's leave you making one adjustment that effects everything together.
I know fading works OK to be able to have more to the tower etc..but it is not true volume control.
The 420 you can dial it in perfectly where you want it for both the frequency and the volume.
The only thing we share with some of the others is the parts of the knobs and rings. So you have to look close at what those parts do. Ours make adjustments for the eq for either (ring) tower or (knob) boat turning it into dual eq's. (ring) volume for the tower, (knob) volume for the in boats. The others does (ring)freq adjustment and (knob) cut/boost. But again for all of the speakers the same.
Then you add in the microphone as mentioned. The mic works over the tower speakers only. You key the mic up and it mutes the tower speakers. You talk over them. Let go of the button and the speakers come back on. The WS-420 also has Boat Link. Boat Link is a aux output allowing you to link up to other boats. So you can have one source tied to other boats. Really cool when in a part cove and have a couple boats tied up and linked together.
Hope this makes it a bit more clear. Just wanted to make sure.
Tim
Wet Sounds
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That looks Awesome, especially the 2 10's under the helm I'm glad it all fit. The new style grills look sooo much better as well.
I'll love to see a pic of the box in the back!Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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