Stereo upgrade ideas

[chpthril]

No, sorry-

I am going to step on Mike's toes, and I know he will not mind...

The way it is drawn is correct, even though my use of 30 and 87 is sort of backwards. If you follow the path of current from the battery to the head unit, you will see that the yellow wire is connected in common to the red wire to a wire that goes to the amp's power terminal. It is connected at the relay to prevent a redundant wire from going all the way to the battery. Study it further and you will realize that the yellow memory wire as shown in the drawing is constantly energized, and the red ignition wire is the only one being switched...

Phil
Kicker

I haven't been down to my storage yet to check on the wiring, but after looking at the schematic I followed, I'm wondering if I accidentally ran the yellow wire to terminal 87 instead of 30. Wouldn't this not allow the radio time to power down as you suggested earlier?

Your diagram is correct, that's not what i'm saying.

In J's post above, he thinks he may have wired the yellow to the switched 87, not the constent 30. So, if he fallowed the rest of the diag correctly, the when the relay is de-energized, the yellow loses 12V.

Lets toss out terminal #'s as 85 and 86 are interchanble and 30 and 87 can be interchanged. If he fallowed the diag to a T, except that the H/U's yellow got wired to the switched side of the relay, along with the red remote turn-on, and NOT the constant/12V supply side of the relay, then that's what I was pointing out.

S no fear of stepping on my toes..........cause you missed

If he wired this way, then I think that's were the pop is coming from

[philwsailz]

Okay, we are on the same page exactly. In the drawing above, you moved the yellow wire so it was switched too. Heck yeah that will create a pop when turned off.

Wired that way, the radio's clock probablly doesn't work, and the station presets and all the tone control setings will get wiped out each time too! hah haha hah




Phil
Kicker

[jrj701]

I forgot to post back up since Memorial Day was fast approaching and I was trying to get everything done before we hit the lake for the extended weekend. I did check my wiring and found that I have it done exactly per the drawing. I do retain all my pre-sets as well as clock, so I don't think that is the problem. That being said, I still get the nasty pop no matter the volume setting. I have been trying to power the head unit down prior to turing off the ignition, which is a real PITA. Any other sugestions? Other than that the system is loud and very clean sounding. I received many compliments thru out the weekend.

[chpthril]

I have been trying to power the head unit down prior to turing off the ignition, which is a real PITA

If this works without the pop, then is tells us that the amps are shutting down before the head-unit.

In the original diagram, the red wire hooked to terminal 30 of the relay that controls the amps remote turn-on.........where is is it coming from, the switch or battery+?

[philwsailz]

You know what, I think I know what is going on....

The relay shown in the drawing on the blue turn-on wire is not necessary for a single amp setup. The radio has enough current capacity to provide turn-on voltage for at least two amps. We recommend the amp turn-on relay for systems with 3 or more amps. Take the relay closest to the amp out and I bet the pop goes away.

Here is what is probably happening:

A relay is an electromagnetic device; we energize a coil to throw a switch. When the radio is turning off, the relay next to the amp loses power and the switch goes back to its non-energized position. Two things are going on which could be causing the pop. One, we have a magnetic field collapsing in the relay, and that will create back-EMF on the turn-on wiring, (the blue wire. Additionally, the movement of the magnet in the coil back to a resting position will cause a voltage to be generated in the relay coil. This can show upp as a pop too.

If you decide to keep the turn-on relay in place, you can install a 50-volt 100uF capacitor in parallel with the relay, in other words, tied to terminals 85 and 86 on the relay.

Mike, does this make sense to you?

Phil
Kicker

[chpthril]

You know what, I think I know what is going on....

The relay shown in the drawing on the blue turn-on wire is not necessary for a single amp setup. The radio has enough current capacity to provide turn-on voltage for at least two amps. We recommend the amp turn-on relay for systems with 3 or more amps. Take the relay closest to the amp out and I bet the pop goes away.

Here is what is probably happening:

A relay is an electromagnetic device; we energize a coil to throw a switch. When the radio is turning off, the relay next to the amp loses power and the switch goes back to its non-energized position. Two things are going on which could be causing the pop. One, we have a magnetic field collapsing in the relay, and that will create back-EMF on the turn-on wiring, (the blue wire. Additionally, the movement of the magnet in the coil back to a resting position will cause a voltage to be generated in the relay coil. This can show upp as a pop too.

If you decide to keep the turn-on relay in place, you can install a 50-volt 100uF capacitor in parallel with the relay, in other words, tied to terminals 85 and 86 on the relay.

Mike, does this make sense to you?

Phil
Kicker

I agree that a relay is typically not needed in a 1 or 2 amp setup, so if the head unit is controlling the coil side and the switched side IS wired to constant 12+ and the pop is still there, then remove the relay and wire the H/U's blue wore directly to the amp.

[jrj701]

Phil and Chp, I will go ahead and remove the relay since I am only running 2 amps. Hopefully I can get to it before the weekend. As soon as I get it done I will let you know how it went. Thanks for the help.