Stereo system help...

[petrey10]

Well thank you that helps me out a ton!! I was looking on ebay for prices and when it says a pair of the KMT6s does that mean 4 speakers in two enclosures or what??

[petrey10]

o ya and would I be able to use my old wiring? Or would I need to buy new wires?

[petrey10]

just wondering if someone could update me on whether or not it would be best to replace the wiring or to use the wiring that is already there.


Thanks sorry for bringing up an old topic but its getting to about the time I want to start this upgrade

[chpthril]

just wondering if someone could update me on whether or not it would be best to replace the wiring or to use the wiring that is already there.


Thanks sorry for bringing up an old topic but its getting to about the time I want to start this upgrade

Speaker or amp wiring? For amp wiring, it will depend on what size wire i currently there, what condition the exposed ends are (does it look like it's growing a Chia Pet or all white and flaky with oxidation) and what amps you are going to install in place of the old ones as they may draw more current then the previous ones and there for require a larger gauge.

For the speakers, about the same advice, except wattage is not as important on speaker wire as it is with powering amps. If your new speakers come with wire, then I would consider using it if the current wire is speaker wire. If the current wire is factory installed marine grade wire (the newer boats are pre-wired but the older boats just had speaker wire), then it's probably 12ga. If so, then look at the exposed ends for corrosion and oxidation.

Now, if I was doing the install for a customer on a 2001 yr model boat, I would just replace the wire as it's not all that of a cost factor, just time involved in running it.

[AdaminMN]

CHP, you mention using 12 AWG for the speaker wire; how many watts would you push through that? The reason I ask is I re-wired my boat last spring w/ 14AWG. I was only using the head unit to drive the speakers, now I have an amp w/ 80w/channel RMS. Will I need to replace the wire again?

Also, I have a Kicker SKM10 sub that seems to clip when the volume is up. Is this volume problem, am I over driving it, or could the amp be starved for power?

The sub is driven by a Clarion APX280 bridged at 300W. 8 AWG wire from the battery to the amp, and 10AWG from the amp to the sub. Now that I look at it, I'm probably putting to much power to the sub. I thought the amp was only rated for 230W.

I'm looking into a JL Audio CL-RLC remote level control to turn down the signal to the amp. That would probably help.

[chpthril]

CHP, you mention using 12 AWG for the speaker wire; how many watts would you push through that? The reason I ask is I re-wired my boat last spring w/ 14AWG. I was only using the head unit to drive the speakers, now I have an amp w/ 80w/channel RMS. Will I need to replace the wire again?

Your 14ga will be fine, no worries dont rewire.

Also, I have a Kicker SKM10 sub that seems to clip when the volume is up. Is this volume problem, am I over driving it, or could the amp be starved for power?

The sub is driven by a Clarion APX280 bridged at 300W. 8 AWG wire from the battery to the amp, and 10AWG from the amp to the sub. Now that I look at it, I'm probably putting to much power to the sub. I thought the amp was only rated for 230W

The specs I find say 230 x 1. Sounds like it may be the signal from the head unit that is clipping. Double-check the gain setting, may be too high. Other then that, make sure the amp is set to LOW-Pass. Once the H/U reaches 3/4 full volume, the chance of clipping is there.

I'm looking into a JL Audio CL-RLC remote level control to turn down the signal to the amp. That would probably help

Yes, a line driver is a good thing, and may be needed here, but for the opposite reason then you think. A line-level controller will allow you to boost the week (probably only 2V's) signal from the H/U to the amps. This prevents the signal from the H/U to the amp(s) from clipping. It also allows the gains on the amp(s) to be turned down, which in turn, helps prevent the introduction of noise into the system.

[philwsailz]

Also, I have a Kicker SKM10 sub that seems to clip when the volume is up. Is this volume problem, am I over driving it, or could the amp be starved for power?

The sub is driven by a Clarion APX280 bridged at 300W. 8 AWG wire from the battery to the amp, and 10AWG from the amp to the sub. Now that I look at it, I'm probably putting to much power to the sub. I thought the amp was only rated for 230W.

I'm looking into a JL Audio CL-RLC remote level control to turn down the signal to the amp. That would probably help.

Adam-

On your SKM10, check to see of the woofer looks pushed out like the subwoofer box is "aired up" or not. Let me explain:

I guess KICKER is the first company to totally seal their products, as I have never seen this with any other products out there... With the SKM10 and the KMT6, there will be the occasional speaker that is so totally and completely sealed that the air inside expands with higher or rising temperatures, pushing the speaker cones out.

I experienced a lack of bass and a sound sort of like clipping with some SKM10's I built into a bench for my outdoor stereo system. When I looked at them, the cones were all pushed out and would not hardly move; the bass sounded really pretty awful. I removed a woofer screw, the enclosures "deflated" and then everything sounded fine. Weird, huh?

You might want to drill a tiny, (and by tiny I mean VERY tiny) hole through the enclosure. Right through the terminal is a good wayt to do it. This will prevent any pressure from building up in the enclosure due to temperature changes.

Let us know on this and the recommendations CHP gave you. That SKM10 should pound; it is one of our best sounding woofers out there right now...

Phil
Kicker

[petrey10]

I got a question about my interior KM6000 speakers. I saw on the website that Kicker has KM6200s and one other number along with the 6000, and 6200. I was wondering which of the 3 is going to be best with my 700.5 amp. My wife has agreed to make the speaker upgrade our Anniversary present so I am super pumped about that and wanted to make sure 100% which interior speaker is going to be the best.

I am going with chpthrills recommendation on the KMT6s for now but I have thought about going with the new models 6500.2 but don't know if Kicker's 2 channel amp will power those good enough. Which would be better the KMT6s or the 6500.2 with the zx 450.2 kicker amp??

Anyways thanks for answers these two questions ahead of time!

[chpthril]

I got a question about my interior KM6000 speakers. I saw on the website that Kicker has KM6200s and one other number along with the 6000, and 6200. I was wondering which of the 3 is going to be best with my 700.5 amp. My wife has agreed to make the speaker upgrade our Anniversary present so I am super pumped about that and wanted to make sure 100% which interior speaker is going to be the best.

I am going with chpthrills recommendation on the KMT6s for now but I have thought about going with the new models 6500.2 but don't know if Kicker's 2 channel amp will power those good enough. Which would be better the KMT6s or the 6500.2 with the zx 450.2 kicker amp??

Anyways thanks for answers these two questions ahead of time!

Kicker currently offers 2 marine cabin speakers: The KM6000's are a perfect factory replacement type speaker IMO, because of the white grill, which I think looks sweet! They are a 6.0" mid with a .5" tweet mounted in the grill. The handle 50 rms and 150 peak. The KM6200's are also a 6.0 with a coaxial mounted tweet, but have a silver grill. They have a .57" tweet and handle a bit more power @ 65 rms/195 peak. The KM6250.2's are a step up from the KM6200. They are 6.0" mid with a 1' separate tweet. They handle even more power with 75 rms/225 peak.

In my opinion, they all sound great with the power that the 700.5 supplies, you would not be disappointed with any of them. Here is now I would look at it: Since you are installing a sub, Go with a larger tweet like the .75 of the KM6200 or even better the 1" of the KM6250.2. The next question will be budget: if your ceiling is high enough, go with the KM6250 components over the KM6200. They handle a ton of mid-bass, and the 1" tweet is really crisp and compliments a sub nicely. If you boat already has components installed, then I guess the choice is simple If you do not want to tackle drilling more holes for the components, then the KM6200 will serve you well.

Hopefully Phil will share some more in-depth and technical differences as well as his own experiences, I'm guessing he has heard these speakers as well

As far as the tower setups go, I cant say for sure as I havent had a chance to hear the new KM6500.2's yet, but cant wait. My guess is, that in a side by side demo, with the same power, the KM6500's would stand above the KTM6's. A couple differences being that the KM6500.2 has a 6.5" mid and a larger HLCD V's the KTM6's 6.0 mid and .75 flared horn tweeter, although the KTM6 does have 2 mids p/pod. Like I said, just a guess.

[petrey10]

alright thanks again CHPThrill you are full of knowledge...

I don't currently have components and was wanting the white grilles so maybe I should stick with KM6000s. I am actually not installing a sub this year I am going to run the current sub for the time being.

As for the tower speakers I guess I should stick with the KMT6s also because the budget will get blown with the purchase of 4 cans... I forgot about that

I was wondering though has anybody ever painted or powder coated or the KMT6s I got a blue tower and think that if I could get a the tower speakers color matched they would look SICK... not a big deal just thought I would ask.

Now wiring... what would you guys do? run new wiring or use old wiring? I don't know what gauges they are or anything I just know its prolly the same quality as the rest of the system which is sub-par. I am not a wiring genius either so where can I get diagrams for the wiring.... man I ask too many questions

[chpthril]

alright thanks again CHPThrill you are full of knowledge...

I don't currently have components and was wanting the white grilles so maybe I should stick with KM6000s. I am actually not installing a sub this year I am going to run the current sub for the time being.

As for the tower speakers I guess I should stick with the KMT6s also because the budget will get blown with the purchase of 4 cans... I forgot about that

I was wondering though has anybody ever painted or powder coated or the KMT6s I got a blue tower and think that if I could get a the tower speakers color matched they would look SICK... not a big deal just thought I would ask.

Now wiring... what would you guys do? run new wiring or use old wiring? I don't know what gauges they are or anything I just know its prolly the same quality as the rest of the system which is sub-par. I am not a wiring genius either so where can I get diagrams for the wiring.... man I ask too many questions

What year is your boat? Can you tell if the in-boat speakers are wired with 2-conductor speaker wire or 2 single-conductor wire that looks as if it's part of the boat's harness.

For the amp power and ground wire, are you definitely going with a tower amp and speakers? If so, then I would do a single POS and single NEG and circuit protection, I like marine rated circuit breakers, that will handle the load of both amps V's individual power and grounds, etc, for each amp. Once you make a decision on the tower amp, we can calculate what size wire and circuit protection you need. For tower speakers, I would just go with 2-conductor 12ga speaker wire, you'll need 50ft.

Even going with your current Sony sub, at 210 watts rms, you will have a nice sounding, balanced system.

For inexpensive cans, you're looking at an additional $300 for 2 pair. The KTM6's are great. The zx450.2 (or new zxm450.2) is perfect for them. The key will be a chnl amp that does around 150 watts rms @ 4ohm.

I dont see why you couldn't paint the KTM6 enclosures, they're just ABS plastic. Any body shop can do them, you just need to make sure they add the plasticizer to the paint like they would for a bumper cover. Or, if you have a body supply store, they can mix it for you, just tell them it's for plastic that will be outdoors. You may find a color off the shelf, check for a brand called "Sem". They make a great product for plastics, etc, just make sure you go with their primer also.

The amp's owners manual will be a great source for how to wire the amps, speakers and sub, but it will be more geared towards a car, we can supplement you when the time comes. There are a few things that need to be done different on a boat from a car, but for the most part, basic 12 principle applies.

Mis anything?

[petrey10]

WOW.... I have no clue what the difference is between 2-conductor speaker wire or 2 single-conductor wire is

Here is an update on what my system WILL b

current head unit
current sub
kicker 700.5 amp
two pair of KM6000s
kicker 450.2 amp
pair of KMT6s

next summer or at some point I will go with the Kicker 10'' sub but not right now and a difference head unit

I am sorry but I just don't understand the circuit protection and single pos single neg stuff... you are going to have to break it down for me. I appreciate you doing this

[ImaPigDog]

alright thanks again CHPThrill you are full of knowledge...

That's not all he's full of!!!

J/K - Chpthril is da' man! He contributes a ton to this forum!

Chp - We gotta get you back to Norris this summer!

[chpthril]

WOW.... I have no clue what the difference is between 2-conductor speaker wire or 2 single-conductor wire is

Speakers need a positive (+) and negative (-) to run, so they need 2 wires running to them. Typical speaker wire is made up of 2 twisted strands of wire that is encased in a common insulation, but physically and electrically separated. That's what's called 2-conductor. Some 2-conductor will use silver colored wire and gold colored wire so the user will be able to differentiate between POS and NEG when making the connections on both ends. This is called polarity. Some 2-conductor may have a solid color on one side and a strip on the other, some will have a round side and a square or "D" shaped side and others will use a ribbed (for her pleasure) and a smooth side to keep track of the polarity. As far as the wire is concerned, there is not a + and - side, you just need to make sure both ends are connected the same and be consistent through out the install.

If you speakers are wired up using the factory wiring (the newer models are pre-wired stereo) then you will see 2 single-conductors plugged up to the speakers. Single-conductor is just a single strand of twisted wire in it's own sheath of insulation. If you went to the auto parts store and bought a roll of wire, that's single conductor. If you went to Best Buy and bought a roll of speaker wire, that would be 2 conductor.

I am sorry but I just don't understand the circuit protection and single pos single neg stuff... you are going to have to break it down for me. I appreciate you doing this

Circuit Protection: either a fuse or circuit breaker of proper rating to carry the amperage (load) of the circuit (electrical device on the other end). The C/P needs to be placed with in 18" of the voltage source (battery).

Most amp installs in autos use a fuse holder of some type. For boats, I prefer to use a manual-reset circuit breaker that is marine rated. They work just like a breaker in your home's breaker-box......when the circuit is overloaded, the breaker trips. Fix the problem, reset the breaker, and the lights come back on. The marine rating means they are ignition protected. This means they will not have lose arching (sparks flying ) when they trip.

Ok, since it looks like you are going with 2 amps, I would say go with a single POS (+) and single NEG (-) wires for both amps. This would be a length of wire from the battery's + to the amp install area for the amp's + and a length of wire from the battery's - to the amp's install area. For those 2 amps, the zx700.5 and zx450.2, you will need 2 lengths of 1/0ga power/ground cable. For circuit protection, you will need a fuse or breaker with a rating of no less then 150A or one that is no more then 200A. Just to clarify, breakers and fuses do not come in ranges, but set ratings, typically in 10A increments.

Once the 1/0ga wire is run to the amp area, it then needs to be split off to each amp's + and - lugs. For this, you will need 2 non-fused (sometimes called "Ground") distribution blocks and a few feet of 4 ga pos and neg cable. You will need 2 distro-blocks that have at least one 1/0ga in and at least 2 4ga outs. I typically keep the length of the wires between the blocks and amps down to 3ft or less, so once you decide where the amps will go, then take some 5/16" rope and lay it in where the cable will go from the battery to the amps, then mark and measure it.

You will need two sets of stereo (a pair) RCA's to run from the head-unit to the amps. Try to keep them as short as possible. You dont need them stretched tight, just dont need 6 extra feet of RCA cable.

You will need a length of 12ga wire, probably yellow, to run the head-unit's power off the amp's power lug and a length of black 12ga to do the same with the H/U's ground and run it to the amp's - lug.

You'll need some 14ga wire to run from the H/U's "amp remote turn-on" to the amps. Blue or green are good colors to go with.

[chpthril]

That's not all he's full of!!!

J/K - Chpthril is da' man! He contributes a ton to this forum!

Chp - We gotta get you back to Norris this summer!

No doubt i'm full of it most of the time

When the weather warms up, we gotta get back together for sure