Mostly Kicker system settings?

[GATigeguy]

OK, so this post is mostly for Mike and Phil. But anyone can chime in. I'm looking for how I should set up my amplifier (rough settings at least) with the following components. I can always fine tune later, but need to get in the ballpark. Components are as follows:
(4) KM 6200 speakers
(1) KM 10 Subwoofer
(1) MX 700.5 Amp
(1) Sony CDXM60UI Head Unit

I have been running on just the in boat speakers lately (no sub) and just finished installing the sub b ut have not made the new connections yet. I'm really excited to hear the difference with the sub but don't want to goof anything up by having my settings wrong.

I'll post some pictures of the install and progress when I finish tying up all the wires and cleaning stuff up.

Thanks

[dingleberry]

Here is a thread from Phil on how to set/adjust your gain:
http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...=gain+settings

[philwsailz]

Try this as a start:

MX700.5

Set AMP1 and AMP2 crossovers to ON or HI-PASS
Set AMP1 and AMP2 crossover frequency to somewhere around 100 HZ
Set BASS BOOST for AMP1 and AMP2 totally off.
Set AMP1 and AMP2 GAINS to about 10:00 as on a clock to start

Set SUB AMP crossover frequency to somewhere around 100 HZ
Set BASS BOOST to somewhere between 8:00 and 11:00 as on a clock to start
Set SUB AMP GAIN to about 12:00 If yuou are using the remote bass knob, set it to 12:00 as on a clock also.

I usually use a single RCA cable from the front out of the head unit to drive the whole amp. Go from FRONT OUT on the head unit to AMP1 input. Then when you add tower speakers later, you can use the REAR OUT for them.


Sony CDXM60UI Head Unit
Set the head unit, with tone flat, i.e. centered bass, mid and treble.
Set the head uit's DSO to OFF. (that is NASTY ear-bleeding stuff most of the time).
Set the fader to center, i.e. half way between front and rear. Don't waste your time trying to fade all the way forward, but do not fade all the way to the rear.

Put in a CD, (NIckleback is good test music, nicely compressed and will really max out the system) and set the Sony head unit volume to about 27. That is where most Sony heads max out, including the Sony CDXM60UI Head Unit.

At this point, with a loud song really jamming, you can adjust AMP1 and AMP2 gains slightly higher to see if there is any more. Usually there isn't. Listen for the sound to start to go "crunchy" and if it does, turn the gain back down. By definition, "crunchy" is the sound of audible clipping distortion; it begins to sound like the dorks driving around in daddy's car with the stereo turned way too loud with the windows down. You know the sound... It is bad.

(If you drive daddy's car around with the stock stereo turned up way too loud and crunchy with the windows down, AND you think it sounds GOOD, you need to IMMEDIATELY sell all your stereo stuff, AND you boat, and go get job at the mall selling BLING necklaces from the roller carts)

Now, is the bas strong enough? If not, consider buying another subwoofer. The amp will handle it and you will double your bass output. Or, consider changing the way your sub is mounted. A sub in a box ALWAYS sounds better. DO NOT turn the SUB AMP gain above about 1:00 as on a clock; with the Sony at level 27, you are really maxed out on the sub amp. Try a little more bass boost, but not past 2:00 as on a clock. Otherwise turn the gains on AMP1 and AMP2 down until you have a good balance.

A few pointers:

Depending on sub location, sometimes you want to switch the speaker wires on the subwoofer, positive for negative. Despite being in-phase electrically, sometimes we end up with our speakers out of phase acoustically, and we end up wht a "hole" at the crossover. try your sub wired both ways, and see which way your ear likes better, from the driver seat, (you are buying the stereo for you first, right?).

If your sub's mounting is free air, and its location puts it in the same storage chamber as one of the KM6200's, consider putting a cover of some sort over the back of the KM6200. This prevents the sound pressure from the back of the sub from modulating the KM6200. It will sound a lot better. Actually, coonsider using a cover over the back on all of the speakers. Funny as it sounds, you can use a Tupperware bowl with a large lip flange all the way around and just screw it to the backside of the panel that the speaker is moutned to. It will make an amazing difference!

Long reply, but amazing results...

Let us know!

Phil

[philwsailz]

By the way, that is basically my exact setup.

I have a cuddy boat, (no bowrider area) so I have a KM10 in a sealed 1 cu. ft. wood box under the bow. It is a PLYWOOD BOX, not MDF, (which has no business being in a boat, and is not necessary for a subwoofer).

I also have an SKM10 underneath the sunpad in the rear. My boat is a stern drive, but if you have a v-drive or if you have a large open storage area underneath a deck or sunpad where a lot of people hang out / sit / sunbathe while sitting in "party cove" this is a good way to add some extra bass. I ran mine witht e woofer firing upward for two years. This year I turned the enclosure over and now downfire the sub. The results were amazing... If you go with a second sub, consider the SKM10, and play with its mounting to find the most "boom" for the buck.

[GATigeguy]

Ok, so I got everything connected and set per Phil's instructions and WOW! what an amazing difference adding this subwoofer. Phil thanks again for the rough settings, it really helped me to get everything sounding good. I spent about an hour so far tweaking the settings with different songs playing from my iPod (my "Boat Music" playlist, hey that's what I'll be playing on the lake right?). I'm sure that I will be constantly sdjusting it until I get that "just right" sound for the driver's position. Thanks again!

[philwsailz]

My pleaseure man!!!

Be prepared... you will forever be playing with it... It is the nature of the beast, have fun!

Take care and have a great day!

Phil
Kicker