Three Word Post Whore's Delight

[da.bell]

Yeah, I went for the good stuff with the new bottom paint. There is a product at West Marine that I believe is called PCA. It is an anti-fouling and barrier that slowly wears away like a bar of soap. that it part of the mechanism that helps keep the bottm free of growth. Historically, most bottm paint would go bad after being in the water for a long time, and then being pulled out. The PCA is different, offering longer wear, and the ability for the boat to be hauled out at the end of the season, put on the trailer, and tucked inside for the winter, all without affecting the bottom paints functionality. Come spring time, if the paint still has sufficient thickness, all you have to do is put the boat back in the water. Then for touch up, just buy the sme stuff, run the boat through a car wash to get the thin soft outer laer off, and then roll a quick couple of coats back on. Easy, easy, easy.....

Sounds a lot easier than it is I would think....

[philwsailz]

I talked to the stereo installer yesterday and apparently the install will be a 2 day ordeal. So this is what is being installed.

3 amps (ARC Audio)
6 internal speakers
4 tower speakers
1 eq
2 RV batteries
2 remote controls
1 JVC HU

The question that I have is about the amps. Apparently they have fans running on them. Airflow has to come into that compartment somehow. Would I use the air chamber that comes from the front of the boat to make sure that there is sufficent air going into that area where the amp are or just leave that area alone???? My issue is that the summer can produce 100+ temp and I do not want to overheat the amps.... Ideas??????

There are lots of ways, and no universally ideal way. Bottom line is that you want to change out the air, in order to keep a temperature gardient between the amps and the air. If it is feasible, get the air in low, and exhaust it high. That way you ar working with the natural tendency for warm air to rise.

IF you want to get all mad scientist and stuff, you could plumb in an automotive heater core, pick water up, and then blow air across the heater core onto the amps. This requires, a pump, a fan, the heater core, and some means of tapping into an existing thru hull, so it is a pain. Anyway, I share it just to let you know I have thought of it....

[da.bell]

Getting the air in doesn't seem like it will be a problem. Getting it out might be a cut that I might have to do right above the glovebox. A 5 inch 12v van on the top there might be perfect. It would be under the windshield so water wouldn't get into there.... hum... That would be an easy install also and I could wire that sucker off the power to one HU....

[philwsailz]

That isn't too bad.... Have you talked to Andrew Haney???? AKA SPBFan to see what he will charge you??? I am gathering a list myself to have him fill out but I can pick it up here in Sacramento instead of shipping it to me. Save in shipping costs.

I have my sources as well locally. As immersed as I am in teh marine industry, it is pretty easy to know who to get with for needs x, y, or z...

[philwsailz]

Getting the air in doesn't seem like it will be a problem. Getting it out might be a cut that I might have to do right above the glovebox. A 5 inch 12v van on the top there might be perfect. It would be under the windshield so water wouldn't get into there.... hum... That would be an easy install also and I could wire that sucker off the power to one HU....

buzzzzz.........

use the amp turn on wire to energize a relay, and pull the power from the bat. for the fan. Try to keep it away from the radio power or it is likely you will put a buzz into your radio. ALso, remember the parallel cap for stubborn pops. The cap goes in parallel to the offending noise source, not in the radio wiring...

[philwsailz]

Sounds a lot easier than it is I would think....

You still have to consider that a quick paint job on the trailer gets a good amount of the job done, but you still have to contend with the ares where the boat is resting on the bunks. I have a ncie way around that in my shop with the hoists, but it still can be a little of a pain for me, and is a much larger pain for the average joe...

[philwsailz]

go go go

[philwsailz]

Getting the air in doesn't seem like it will be a problem. Getting it out might be a cut that I might have to do right above the glovebox. A 5 inch 12v van on the top there might be perfect. It would be under the windshield so water wouldn't get into there.... hum... That would be an easy install also and I could wire that sucker off the power to one HU....

HAh, suck or blow...

There are so many opinion out there as to which is more effective. On any given day, I could argue either, so I recommend you either do what is easist, or maybe both...

[da.bell]

buzzzzz.........

use the amp turn on wire to energize a relay, and pull the power from the bat. for the fan. Try to keep it away from the radio power or it is likely you will put a buzz into your radio. ALso, remember the parallel cap for stubborn pops. The cap goes in parallel to the offending noise source, not in the radio wiring...

That's right... Zad had that going on with his boat I think.

I do know that there is good airflow from front to back of the boat since there is one huge opening that goes down that way but it's low and heat rises.

[philwsailz]

I have an errand to run...

Back in a few....

[da.bell]

HAh, suck or blow...

There are so many opinion out there as to which is more effective. On any given day, I could argue either, so I recommend you either do what is easist, or maybe both...

he he he

I think I will utilize the tubing that is used to draw air to the engine with a small fan blowing into that area. The other fan that I will install will suck the air from the top part of the amp area. That way I have both... A sucker blower.

[philwsailz]

good call....

[philwsailz]

I always wanted to do a cooling system for a sailboat that utilized a heater core and a length of hose to draw water from near the bottom. the pump could be as small as a livewell pump and the fan could be the 5" fan you are talking...

The only problem with such a device would be that you would have to roll up the dangling tubing prior to moving the boat...

[philwsailz]

Or, if the the temperature gradient levels were closer to the surface one might not have to go as deep to find the chill source....

[philwsailz]

Brrr.....

Everyone thinks the concept is evap thogh, and it is funny when folks don't get it. The water that you pick up out of the lake would always be in a closed system.. Any water that came off of the device would be condensation; moisture removed from the ambient air as a result of cooling it. The air going across the heater core might actually be drier on the cold side...