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Supreme Tigé Master
- Apr 2007
- 12007
- Lake Carl Blackwell, Stilly, USA
- 54 Bellcraft, 56 Burchcraft, 61 LoneStar, 75 Catalina 27
Look what a free Saturday and 3,000 lbs of lumber will get ya.
Got started on building the dock. The two last floats and the galvanized hinge hardware arrive tomorrow. 8x20 floating section, and a 16' x 44" walkway with triangle bracing underneath.
I wanted to go ahead and deck the walkway, but it would have made it that much heavier to move....
The floating portion has some thought going into it... The boat I am plannig on mooring there is not a small boat, so I am building in hard-points for the cleats in the framework. So many times you see dock cleats just screwed down to the decking. On this dock the cleats will be attached either with lag screws, (probably sufficient) or thru-bolted with galvanized bolts with fender washers and locking nuts...
Many times you see floating docks tied to their walkways, but on lakes where the level varies this introduces a horizontal movement as levels change. For a conventional design to work well you either have to provide for the floating portion moving in and out with a fixed ramp, or you fix the floating portion where it only goes up and down, and the ramp slides in and out on shore. My design will use 4 poles to pin the floating portion in place. It will go up and down only. The ramp will be hinged to fixed walkway tied to shore, so the ramp will actually roll or slide on the floating section. I have calculated that for our extreme water-level changes I need to accout for two-feet of lateral movement based on a 16' ramp, so I have that built in to the design.
The poles anchoring the dock in place will go through over-sized collars and the collars will be sufficiently long to prevent binding... I have seen poor designs where the dock was easily hung on the support poles; line-on-line fits don't work in the world of floating docks. There is too much dynamic action at work... This should not happen with my dock. The collars that the poles will go through are 18 - 20 inces long; long enough to prevent any angular displacement that could catch and bimd on the poles.
More pictures as I progress, but it will be fun to have it done. Even more fun to move into place... I am going to have to borrow an outboard motor and drive the floating section into place. I could use my '57 18-horse, but don't want to take it off the boat it is on.
Finally, yes, my shop is disgustingly messy right now... I need to clean it up horribly... Who knows what you will see in the background...Last edited by philwsailz; 03-05-2012, 02:55 PM.It's not an optical illusion.
It just looks like one.....
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Originally posted by philwsailz View PostLook what a free Saturday and 3,000 lbs of lumber will get ya.
Got started on building the dock. The two last floats and the galvanized hinge hardware arrive tomorrow. 8x20 floating section, and a 16' x 44" walkway with triangle bracing underneath.
I wanted to go ahead and deck the walkway, but it would have made it that much heavier to move....
The floating portion has some thought going into it... The boat I am plannig on mooring there is not a small boat, so I am building in hard-points for the cleats in the framework. So many times you see dock cleats just screwed down to the decking. On this dock the cleats will be attached either with lag screws, (probably sufficient) or thru-bolted with galvanized bolts with fender washers and locking nuts...
Many times you see floating docks tied to their walkways, but on lakes where the level varies this introduces a horizontal movement as levels change. For a conventional design to work well you either have to provide for the floating portion moving in and out with a fixed ramp, or you fix the floating portion where it only goes up and down, and the ramp slides in and out on shore. My design will use 4 poles to pin the floating portion in place. It will go up and down only. The ramp will be hinged to fixed walkway tied to shore, so the ramp will actually roll or slide on the floating section. I have calculated that for our extreme water-level changes I need to accout for two-feet of lateral movement based on a 16' ramp, so I have that built in to the design.
The poles anchoring the dock in place will go through over-sized collars and the collars will be sufficiently long to prevent binding... I have seen poor designs where the dock was easily hung on the support poles; line-on-line fits don't work in the world of floating docks. There is too much dynamic action at work... This should not happen with my dock. The collars that the poles will go through are 18 - 20 inces long; long enough to prevent any angular displacement that could catch and bimd on the poles.
More pictures as I progress, but it will be fun to have it done. Even more fun to move into place... I am going to have to borrow an outboard motor and drive the floating section into place. I could use my '57 18-horse, but don't want to take it off the boat it is on.
Finally, yes, my shop is disgustingly messy right now... I need to clean it up horribly... Who knows what you will see in the background...
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Supreme Tigé Master
- Apr 2007
- 12007
- Lake Carl Blackwell, Stilly, USA
- 54 Bellcraft, 56 Burchcraft, 61 LoneStar, 75 Catalina 27
Originally posted by skippabcool View PostLooks good. Now you just need some water
Let me do the volume calculation real quick... 3,350 acres x 6ft. 1 acre is 43,560 sq. ft. 1 cu ft is 7.45 gallons.
Straight math says we only need 6.523 billion gallons to get the lake up to pool... This of course assumes a vertical rise at the shoreline... So, we probably only need about 4.5 billion gallons. Still....Last edited by philwsailz; 03-05-2012, 03:26 PM.It's not an optical illusion.
It just looks like one.....
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Supreme Tigé Master
- Apr 2007
- 12007
- Lake Carl Blackwell, Stilly, USA
- 54 Bellcraft, 56 Burchcraft, 61 LoneStar, 75 Catalina 27
Originally posted by Timmy! View PostNice progress Phil! How are you going to get it to the lake? Those look to be very large sections.It's not an optical illusion.
It just looks like one.....
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