Im lost without the PW thread!!!!

[hyphen79]

8323 first post

[chpthril]

Stereo is ALMOST done.... I haven't had time to download the pictures, I will try to get to that the week after I get back from my Vail trip.

Once this done I got the go ahead from the wife to begin the automated ballast setup. Just need to figure out what pumps to go with. I all ready have my sacs.

Advice, suggestions?

The best choices are: Attwood T800 flows 13 gmp, Rule 1100 flows 17 gph and the reversible Jabsco flows about 10 gph.

For the larger sacs like the Jumbo, Id recommend the Rule 1100 or dual T800's.

[hyphen79]

The best choices are: Attwood T800 flows 13 gmp, Rule 1100 flows 17 gph and the reversible Jabsco flows about 10 gph.

For the larger sacs like the Jumbo, Id recommend the Rule 1100 or dual T800's.

Of these which one is going to suck that bag dry for easy storage? Remember we talked about how to want to be able to get the bags out of the way as much as possible after being drained

[chpthril]

Of these which one is going to suck that bag dry for easy storage? Remember we talked about how to want to be able to get the bags out of the way as much as possible after being drained

The reversible pumps are self-priming, so they will actually draw a significant vacuum. But the aerators will also "raisin" the sacs with a check-valve placed in the vent line.

[hyphen79]

all right... the wife is putting me to work around the house, and then I am heading out to get the oil changed on the truck. check in with you hoes later.

something to look at while I am gone:

[skippabcool]

Chp, any thoughts or anything to add to wakeman's responses?

Got most all my parts for the ballast install. I need to pick up the wire. I did price checking today. If you already made your wiring harness how did you determine the lengths to make them? I was thinking about running them from one end or the other then making them the correct size and finishing the connections.

I took and ran the wire to the locations and cut it to length. I found that speaker wire was the cheapest and it is not that cheap. It also is color polorised. I did leave a little extra thinking that I could coil it if needed. Better to be long than short. I did most of the harness work inside where it is warmer but also did not want to do any extra climbing around in the boat with the floor removed. And deffinetly did not want to do the soldering in the boat.

I was about to start drilling and ran into a snag for the vent / drain thru hull. I wanted to put it in front of the existing bilge thru hull but that puts it in front of the divider for the taps. I was checking to see if I should just put it behind the existing thru hull.

I am placing me drian thru hulls in the front stoage areas and I am doing that tomorrow. I am not sure about where and how to place the sealer. I would presume just on the outer edge would be ok there. chp what do you say?

For the ball value and pump, do you need to tape the threads?

Yes you should tape all threads.

On the thru hull do you just put a bead on the lip of the thru hull?

For the fill thru hull I would say to put it all around the fitting so it also fills up the space between the fitting and the fiberglass.

I know lots of questions. Kind of like measuring, do it several times then cut.

[lancehon]

My pregnant wife is having cravings, now I get to go pick up Thai food for lunch. Only a half hour drive each way!

[chpthril]

Chp, any thoughts or anything to add to wakeman's responses?

Got most all my parts for the ballast install. I need to pick up the wire. I did price checking today. If you already made your wiring harness how did you determine the lengths to make them? I was thinking about running them from one end or the other then making them the correct size and finishing the connections.

I took and ran the wire to the locations and cut it to length. I found that speaker wire was the cheapest and it is not that cheap. It also is color polorised. I did leave a little extra thinking that I could coil it if needed. Better to be long than short. I did most of the harness work inside where it is warmer but also did not want to do any extra climbing around in the boat with the floor removed. And deffinetly did not want to do the soldering in the boat.

I was about to start drilling and ran into a snag for the vent / drain thru hull. I wanted to put it in front of the existing bilge thru hull but that puts it in front of the divider for the taps. I was checking to see if I should just put it behind the existing thru hull.

I am placing me drian thru hulls in the front stoage areas and I am doing that tomorrow. I am not sure about where and how to place the sealer. I would presume just on the outer edge would be ok there. chp what do you say?

For the ball value and pump, do you need to tape the threads?

Yes you should tape all threads.

On the thru hull do you just put a bead on the lip of the thru hull?

For the fill thru hull I would say to put it all around the fitting so it also fills up the space between the fitting and the fiberglass.

I know lots of questions. Kind of like measuring, do it several times then cut.

Speaker works just fine. As far as 12v electricity is concerned, wire is wire. I use regular single conductor primary wire and just use a red and black. With the red, I tag each end with wire markers so I know whats its for when im at the switch.

I just estimate the wire length and leave plenty on each ends. In the grand scheme, its inexpensive as compared to taking the time to fish multiple runs through the same places in the boat.

Placing the t-hull behind the bilge outlet is fine

For the above the water line thru-hulls, I place a bead around the lip of the fitting then set it up into place and put on the jam nut. For the fitting below the water line, I place one bead on the lip of the fitting and one around the hole on the inside/bilge side, then screw down the nut. I also like to install the ball-valve and pump/manifold before fully seating the nut. This way I can rotate the whole assembly if i need clearance for the ball-valve handle or pump outlet. Once I know I have good clearance, I seat the nut then let the sealant cure.

I dont use Teflon tape, i smear a dab of 5200 on the threads. Wont leak...wont come loose.

[lancehon]

So worth the drive

[Timmy!]

Speaker works just fine. As far as 12v electricity is concerned, wire is wire. I use regular single conductor primary wire and just use a red and black. With the red, I tag each end with wire markers so I know whats its for when im at the switch.

That's exactly what I used and how I did it. I had 3 reds so we twisted the ends together and put that in a drill and then 2 buddies held onto the ends and spun the drill slowly and it makes a nice braid that goes into the loom. Just make sure you mark the ends first so you know which is which.

[skippabcool]

Thanks for the info guys

[thtrog]

checking in post

[thtrog]

white caps at the lake, snow flurries and icy slopes in the mountains

[majestic]

Stereo is ALMOST done.... I haven't had time to download the pictures, I will try to get to that the week after I get back from my Vail trip.

Once this done I got the go ahead from the wife to begin the automated ballast setup. Just need to figure out what pumps to go with. I all ready have my sacs.

Advice, suggestions?

I have the Rule's on the fill lines and the T-800's on the drains.

[thtrog]

I have 2 puppies