Anyone ever install a tongue hinge on trailer with surge brakes?

[Jetter]

I purchased a Fulton fold-away hinge to install on my boat trailer for my 08 Z1. This will allow me to park it in it's garage without having to take off the swim deck every time. The install is very straight forward but I'm wondering about the solid hydraulic line for the brakes. I know I need to put a piece of flexible line in where the hinge goes but I'm wondering how I join it to the existing cut line?

Anyone ever tried this? Any advice would be appreciated.

[TeamAllen]

Maybe this will work?
https://www.etrailer.com/p-T0980100.html

[N2mud]

I added one of those to my last boat trailer. It was easy to install and worked well. I bought a long flexible brake hose that ran from the master cylinder back to the T near the axles. That left extra hose for swinging the tongue away.

[UNSTUCK]

I would not recommend running a soft line that long. Soft lines expand when under pressure, so instead of all the force of the brake fluid being exerted on your brake pistons, it is also being used up pushing on the line. You will lose braking force. That is why hard line is used everywhere possible. If it must be done, use steel braided line as it expands less.

I would install something similar to what was linked above, directly to the reverse solenoid (or master cylinder if you don't have one, but i'm sure you do). Then I would cut the hard line short the same length as your new soft line. Reuse the nut or get a new one and slide it on the hard line then double flare the hard line. You may need to remove the other end of the hard line where it meets at the axles so you can slide it out enough to have room to work on it. Then screw it into the new soft line and bleed the brakes. We can cover that part when you're ready, but it's easy to do at home as well.

[Jetter]

I would not recommend running a soft line that long. Soft lines expand when under pressure, so instead of all the force of the brake fluid being exerted on your brake pistons, it is also being used up pushing on the line. You will lose braking force. That is why hard line is used everywhere possible. If it must be done, use steel braided line as it expands less.

I would install something similar to what was linked above, directly to the reverse solenoid (or master cylinder if you don't have one, but i'm sure you do). Then I would cut the hard line short the same length as your new soft line. Reuse the nut or get a new one and slide it on the hard line then double flare the hard line. You may need to remove the other end of the hard line where it meets at the axles so you can slide it out enough to have room to work on it. Then screw it into the new soft line and bleed the brakes. We can cover that part when you're ready, but it's easy to do at home as well.

Thanks UNSTUCK. That is what I was looking for. I know that short flex hose listed above is what I need but I didn't know how to connect that hose to the cut end of my existing hard line. I think I need a fitting that goes on the end of the flex line that I can join with the double flare.

Jetter

[UNSTUCK]

That hose liked above should work perfect. The male end should screw right into the reverse solinoid and the female end will allow the new male end of the hard line to screw into it.

If you have not flared line before buy a piece at your parts house to practice on. You can rent a flaring tool there too. If the line is aluminum it will flare just fine if it's steel or stainless it's unlikely you will get a good flare with the rental tool. In that case I'd remove the line and take it to an auto repair shop that has a hydraulic flaring tool. When you pull the line out tie or tape a heavy string to the axle end and then pull it out the hitch end. Keep the string in there so you can use it to reinstall the line.

Oh and don't cut the hard line short the length of the new soft line like I said before. Leave it a few inches long so the soft line will have plenty of room to swing with the tounge.