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Replacing Slave Cylinders/Bleeding Brakes on UFP

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    Replacing Slave Cylinders/Bleeding Brakes on UFP

    Anyone ever bleed the brakes on their UFP after changing slave cylinders?

    #2
    Do you mean master cylinder?

    I've had to replace mine and then bleed brakes. Definitely easier with 2 people (one at the master cylinder and the other at the end of the brake line. These were useful:

    http://www.ufpnet.com/DiscBrakes/Ble...2/Default.aspx

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w6aFI4kXQX8

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      #3
      I just got done replacing all the rotors, calipers, and actuator on my trailer. I upgraded to the new Xr-84 actuator that is self locking.

      Anyway, don't even try using a vacuum bleeder. All you'll do it pull air through the threads on the bleeder screw. Super frustrated and figured it out about and hour into it. Anyway. Use the hose In a bottle method. Fill the bottle with brake fluid so the end of the hose is submerged then hook it up to the bleeder nipple and crack open the bleeder screw, leaving it open. Now, move to the actuator and start pumping the plunger with a screw driver while also keeping the fluid level full. I like bleeding each caliper by pumping a few "actuator capacities of fluid" through the system. You don't need to worry about sucking air because the hose in the bottle is submerged.

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        #4
        Thanks kx, I will give it a shot that way. Another thing popped into my head has to do with backing uphill!! I noticed an extra pin
        in the trailer one for the extender to be removed so it will fit in my garage and the other seems to be just for that purpose? Pull
        it out and it allows you to back up without the system braking??? Is that guess correct?

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          #5
          Your UFP coupler likely has a solenoid that disables braking in reverse when it receives power through your 7 pin wiring harness.

          I'm not sure what pin you refer to. Can you snap a photo?

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