Need some confirmation on a Trailer issue

[Thegerman618]

Okay, well not to rub anything in but its well into 70-90's here is Southern California and I have the worst itch to get the boat out. SO...I was pulling the boat out everything is fine, I went to back into my driveway like I have hundred of times before and the brakes are locking up hard while in reverse. I called the trailer manufacture (Sport Boat Trailer) and they are telling me its the reverse lock out valve is probably not working. Has anyone had this issue? Here is some more information and troubleshooting I did:

1. Cleaned the terminals on the both the trailer (5 Pin Flat) and truck (9 Pin Round) to ensure proper grounding and power to the reverse valve.
2. Double checked the break away cable, and mechanism is not tripped.
3. Moving forward breaks work fine, and the brakes are not on while moving forward.
4. Its a UFP Model 60-A inner slide looks clean no rust.

If I purchase the reverse the valve, any idea of how difficult the swap will be? Is it guaranteed this is my problem? Is it smarter to just replace the entire inner slide and reverse lock out valve and do a full swap? Any help is appreciated!

UFP A-60 Inner slide-$181.00
Reverse Lockout-$55.00

Total for both.. call in $240.00

Thanks again, don't want to be stuck on the launch ramp.

[lancehon]

You for sure have power to the solenoid? And the trailer is for sure grounded?

[Thegerman618]

All the lights are working, I have a volt meter but ironically the batteries are dead. so I couldn't verify directly at the valve, I am not sure if the valve has audible click/buzz when activated I had my buddy cycle the truck in and out of reverse and was not able to hear or physically feel anything on the valve with my hand on it, but like I said I am not sure if its supposed to.

[TeamAllen]

This might work for you?
http://www.pacifictrailers.com/UFP-A...-Lockout-Cap-/

[Thegerman618]

I may have to go this route in the mean time, I hate to say it but I really don't want to have to get out of the truck every time I want to back up.

[JCP]

Do you have power to the outer terminal of the 5 pin while in reverse?

[Thegerman618]

As far as I can tell, I towed a different boat 2 weeks ago no problem.

[lancehon]

I'd put a test light at the solenoid, if it lights up I'd bet you're due for a new solenoid

[UNSTUCK]

Do the back up lights come on on your truck or on the trailer, if you have them when you put it in reverse?

A test light would diagnose this real quick.

[lee]

You should hear the reverse solenoid click when first put into reverse.

[Thegerman618]

Thanks Lee, I guess a new reverse valve is in my future.

[JCP]

Do not replace the reverse valve without verifying voltage to the solenoid while in reverse. Have you done this? Your back up lights can work and still not have power to the solenoid.

[Thegerman618]

Okay, got batteries for the volt meter, I have good connection and ground through all the lights, but when I touch the reverse switch no continuity between ground and power post. I think the selanoid fried at some point over the winter, or maybe had water from all the rain and freezing temp when I applied power it popped it. I think I am gonna go with the manual lock out for now until I have the time, patience, and beer to tackle that one. I will post some pictures and a write up on how to when I get it done. Thanks for all the help guys, much appreciated.

[JCP]

Get a cheap 12 volt test light, about $5.00. Start by checking for power at the vehicle trailer plug with the boat wiring not plugged in. With your vehicle in reverse, verify that your back up lights are on. Hook you test light ground to some bare metal on your bumper. Touch the probed end of the test light to the most outer insulated terminal of your vehicle trailer plug and it should light the test light. Report back after this test.

[Thegerman618]

Thanks JCP, I it image.jpg this little fuse is going to pay