Boatmate trailer locks up when reversing

[Iwndr]

If the ramp has a slope then the actuator will release.

Interesting. I did not know the brakes would release going Downhill or a slope. I will test that theory with the trailer unplugged.

[Matt Garcia]

My case was when I was reversing downhill or on a decline the brakes did not lock up. However reversing when theres a slight incline the brakes will lock up.

[chpthril]

Does it have a 7 pin plug or a 7 to 5 adapter? Because when you put your truck into reverse , the power from your backup lights power a solenoid so it releases pressure so the brakes cannot lock up , but if u use a tractor like I do to put my boat in the garage , you have insert a little lockout key between the actuator pin and actuator housing. Some use a turn knob on top as well

https://caltrailerworks.com/online/p...cat=351&page=1

Wire a simple toggle on the dash with a lead run to the hitch ball. 12V is now switched to the trailer plug. We did this on the fork lift that my buddy uses at his marina to move boats.

[chpthril]

Sounds like the lock-out solenoid is not getting energized. I would not expect the trailer to have a round 7-way and not electric lock-out. I would confirm both tow vehicles have the correct pin energzed when in reverse, then check for voltage and ground at the solenoid.

[mnpracing]

Interesting. I did not know the brakes would release going Downhill or a slope. I will test that theory with the trailer unplugged.

but only if you are backing up....the trailer brakes get applied when the tow vehicle slows fast enough to where the trailer tongue compresses the actuator into the tongue as the trailer puts pressure against the tow vehicle. So when there is no pressure against the tow vehicle from the trailer (like when you are backing down a slope, the tow vehicle has a pulling force on the trailer), the actuator is not pressing into the master cylinder. If you test this on an incline, just make sure the actuator is fully extended before you unplug the trailer.

[whiteflash watersports]

It is definately a wiring issue. Most liklely with the truck. Also this si the lock out I have has a powerful magnet and I just keep on trailer in case I need it. I back up a pretty good incline on my driveway every time we go out and I never need it. Just have it in case the solenoid fails. But if it is wired properly and no issue wiht the truck wiring (could also be a fuse) you dont need the lock out.

If you go down the road with the nickels or this one you will have no brake as they are locked out. That is why that other one is designed to fall out.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/boat-trailer...#ht_595wt_1153

[Z1Fan]

oh btw guys if you have the UFP brake acttuators, you can buy this cap , which fits into the hole being occupied by a black plastic plug, i used to have one on my old trailer and it was the best

https://caltrailerworks.com/online/p...cat=351&page=1

cap.php.jpg

[Dandy]

A little off subject, why don't they use electric over hydralic breaks as they do on other large trailers? That would allow the trailer break controller to handle everything and not have this issue.

[Z1Fan]

A little off subject, why don't they use electric over hydralic breaks as they do on other large trailers? That would allow the trailer break controller to handle everything and not have this issue.

Cost!!! and simplicity...but cost is the major one

[Iwndr]

It is definately a wiring issue. Most liklely with the truck. Also this si the lock out I have has a powerful magnet and I just keep on trailer in case I need it. I back up a pretty good incline on my driveway every time we go out and I never need it. Just have it in case the solenoid fails. But if it is wired properly and no issue wiht the truck wiring (could also be a fuse) you dont need the lock out.

If you go down the road with the nickels or this one you will have no brake as they are locked out. That is why that other one is designed to fall out.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/boat-trailer...#ht_595wt_1153

Understand.... But if you drive down mountain passes without a nickel locking it out you will burn your calipers and rotors out before you get to the bottom. Rarely run them but when I'm headed down a pass I do. will also get you out of a bind when you cannot find your actual lockout because it fell off as designed.

[Iwndr]

but only if you are backing up....the trailer brakes get applied when the tow vehicle slows fast enough to where the trailer tongue compresses the actuator into the tongue as the trailer puts pressure against the tow vehicle. So when there is no pressure against the tow vehicle from the trailer (like when you are backing down a slope, the tow vehicle has a pulling force on the trailer), the actuator is not pressing into the master cylinder. If you test this on an incline, just make sure the actuator is fully extended before you unplug the trailer.

Yeah, I understand the concept of surge brakes, Most of the lakes I frequent have short ramps so you have to back up on flat ground to get to the ramp. I guess if you had a wide long ramp where you can drive into and do a U turn on the ramp that could possibly work out for you. But I believe that even while backing down a slope, a surge to the piston could be initiated in turn activating the brakes. That is unless you had a nickel in there

[Matt Garcia]

So I should state the brakes lock up even when the 7 way is not connected. I am not sure how that is related to it being electrical.

I tried the brake actuator lockout but it doesnt seem to fit when the trailer is connected on the truck. I tried multiple times to get the brake actuator pin to move forward so I could fit the lockout in but theres just not enough space. A few millimeters of space and it would it fit in. However, whenever the boat wasnt connected on the trailer I could get the lockout in. My fix was just like Iwndrs suggestion, a simple 5 cent coin fits in there and worked enough for me to get it back in my storage unit. 8K trailer and 5 cent fix.

[Iwndr]

It is definately a wiring issue. Most liklely with the truck. Also this si the lock out I have has a powerful magnet and I just keep on trailer in case I need it. I back up a pretty good incline on my driveway every time we go out and I never need it. Just have it in case the solenoid fails. But if it is wired properly and no issue wiht the truck wiring (could also be a fuse) you dont need the lock out.

If you go down the road with the nickels or this one you will have no brake as they are locked out. That is why that other one is designed to fall out.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/boat-trailer...#ht_595wt_1153

And you do actually have some braking power left with a nickel installed, it only takes away half of the travel for the actuator rod.

[Dandy]

So I should state the brakes lock up even when the 7 way is not connected. I am not sure how that is related to it being electrical.

The brakes should always lock up when backing when the 7 pin is not connected. When the 7 pin is hooked up and everything is wired correctly, the reverse light power a wire that powers the valve to bypass the surge brakes. When not hooked up, this power obviously cannot be transmitted to the valve allowing the surge breaks to function as they should.

I would guess that either your wiring is not passing power correctly back to the override or you have a defective override. I would contact your dealer or the trailer manufacturer. I have contacted BoatMate a couple of times with questions and they have been more than helpful. If it is a BoatMate trailer, they can probably walk you thought testing the components.

Good Luck

[Z1Fan]

Okay Matt , see the little sticker on the side , read it , and underneath is a little lever , push it to release the pressure in the line , then just push on the assembly and then you will be able to insert and tape in place the little lever !!!