I am looking for some advice on replacing my current trailer which has fallen victim to numerous baths in brackish water over the past 7 years... I have a 2002 23V Riders Edition sitting on a 2002 27' Dorsey trailer. Given that I will continue to ski in brackish water, I am likely to go with a galvanized or aluminum trailer. Dorsey is out of business, so I am stuck on getting trailer measurements for building a new customer trailer. With that said, I am looking for some feedback and recommendations on trailer manufacturers, especially if anybody has replaced a trailer for their Tige boat or had any experience with aluminum trailers.
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Contact Mark Gibbs at Boatmate Trailers. He used to work for Tigé. -
I have spent hours and hours trying to bring my trailer back from rust hell. I think I can get another year out of it, but probably looking to replace it next year. Please keep us posted on where you find a trailer.
Saw another Dorsey trailer for a Malibu at the lake last weekend...
lets just say thoughts ran through my head...:-)Comment
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I'll definitely contact Mark at Boat Mate. I contacted Tige customer service, and the believed that Boat Mate had made trailers for the 02 23V.Comment
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bman,
I see that you're from Sugarland. Where do you ride? My profile says Houston, but I am actually down in the Lake Jackson area. We ride out on the San Bernard.
Here are the trailers at which I have looked thus far:
EZLoader - Majestic Aluminum; http://www.sunbeltmarine.com/I-Tube_Custom_SkiBoat.html
EZLoader - M2 w/ tuff coat finish; http://www.sunbeltmarine.com/EZ_Loader_M2_Series.html
Coastline Trailers - Aluminum; http://www.coastlinetrailermfg.com/
Magnum Trailers - Aluminum or Galvanized; http://www.magnumtrailers.com/boat-t...ndem-axle.htmlComment
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I ski in your same area, and the rust is an ever present battle due to salt. I just replaced my Dorsey with a BoatMate - got it from Texas Tige up in Conroe - great guys to work with. This doesn't solve the issue, as it is still just a painted trailer.
I believe that Nobody (another member on here) has a nice aluminum trailer, as he lives in Fl and prob has to deal with our same issues. Send him a message to see where he got it.Comment
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Kimber - thanks for the info. I had not contacted the guys at Texas Tige yet. I do know the guys there - I bought my boat from them when they were initially opening up shop in Houston back in 2005. I'll try that route as well. I'd prefer something that will stand up to the salt water, but at the same time, I want something that will be a good fit when hauling the boat on the trailer (weight distribution, etc). How has your replacement trailer worked out?Comment
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The new Boatmate is great. 4 wheel disc brakes. Loads better than the Dorsey. The tongue is shorter, which helps it trailer better. It sits higher and has rollers on the back. It has torsion axles and Vault oil bath hubs, which supposedly never have to be touched. I love it. Sold my old one to another TO member.Originally posted by rjh171 View PostComment
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rjh171 I mostly go to lake Conroe. I have taken the boat to the river once, but that is it. I used to take my Jetski down there a lot. I was disappointed to see the restaurant close and change to a special events place.
I was going to head down to the River on Saturday, but no one wanted to go with me. Not a big fan of trying to launch and retrieve by myself.
Kimber,
If you don't mind me asking... How much did that trailer cost?Comment
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I'm in the same boat as well. The san bernard really took a toll on our trailer last yr as salty as that river was.
Looking to get a new one in the next couple yrs so following closely.........Comment
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If you use your trailer for salt water, it's imperative you stay away from "tube style" construction and go with I-Beam construction. Why? Because corrosion starts from the inside out. Corrosive salt water will get inside the tubes and corrode for eternity, even if you drill drainage holes...the salt will stay inside you tubes and corrode....PERIOD! Steel tube style trailers are usually welded, which is ok, but not for aluminum. With steel, a weld can be made as strong as the parent material, but this is not the case with aluminum. In almost all instances, the weld will be weaker than the parent material. Thus, a good aluminum trailer will be bolted together with stainless steel hardware. To explain this in further detail would require a lengthy discussion about heat treated and non treated alloys, and all the physical property changes associated during the weld process. BORING!!!
Other big factors to a good trailer would include:
Zodiak stainless steel hubs, rotors, calipers and pad mounts. Everything else is JUNK.
Center cut cypress bunks (4X6) versus bullchit 2 by whatever PT junk wood bought at HD. If you must use 2-by lumber, at least buy marine grade lumber.
Bunks are thru bolt fastened versus worthless lags.
Trailer pipe lights on the guild post so people can actually see when you lane changing.
All electrical connections are soldered, then sealed with heat shrink, then silicone applied over the ends.
Totally enclosed LED lights.
Spare tire with spare hub to match the hubs on your trailer.
TPM (tire pressure monitors) in all 4 tires to tell you what your tire pressure and tire temperature is at all times. (read inside your tow vehical).
And the list goes on and on and on.
BTW....Boatmate is just an "average" trailer that looks good when it leaves the show room. They use sub par paint, and good for nothing primer. Their components are run-of-the-mill and the mfg gets a "C" at best for overall quality. What they offer is great service to the boat dealers and mfg with their ability tool to any boat made, or being made. If Boatmate used a zinc based primer, a more durable urethane finish with a strong clear coat, offered Zodiak brake parts, then I'd say acceptable. For now, it gets the big "J" (JUNK).
Heavy mill bunk carpet applied with marine grade adhesive and stainless steel tacks, versus paper thin bunk carpet applied with steel staples and no glue (of course) or better yet go with Bunkaps plastic bunk covers.Last edited by Nobody; 06-06-2012, 08:46 PM.Comment
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Another note worth mentioning is the axle.
There are springs, torsion and there is something else.
Rolls Axle has a one of a kind that is superior to everything out there but is used on I-beam construction because it requires a serious rigid base mount. Called the "Aluminum Frame Spring" that uses a hard plastic as a piston that compresses a block of high durometer urethane die rubber. All fastenings are stainless steel and the hinge bolt rides on a continuous nylon bushing. The spring is warranted for life.
Here's a link: http://rollsaxle.com/parts.htm
Here's a link to their patented life-time spring: http://rollsaxle.com/lifetime_spring.htm
Here's a picture:Last edited by Nobody; 06-06-2012, 05:31 PM.Comment
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Opps! Meant to write Kodiak not Zodiak.
Anywho.....these are components meant for salt or brackish or even fresh.
They're meant to last the life of the trailer, 10+ years.Comment
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It's been three years now, time to do a thorough once over on all 4 wheels.
Since Kodiak hubs, spindles, brake calipers, dics and dust covers are all stainless steel, there was no corrosion and everything came off easy. The other nice feature of Kodiak is the ability to replace the inner and outer race. Not all hubs allow you this ability. Then 8 new bearings, new rear seals, and of course new front rubber seals, greased up and ready to go. Cost: $80 parts, plus $40 labor to replace race and re-grease new bearings. Ready for another 3 years of salt bath life. Heading on
a 700 mile journey to SC and back home in a few days. We'll be passing a lot of abandoned trailers on the freeway, but one thing for sure, our's won't be one of them.
Kodiak is the only why to go!
http://www.kodiaktrailer.com/
Do your trailer maintenance annually!!!!Comment
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