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    #1

    Brake help--please

    Really need some direction...or maybe just assurance

    Picked up a 2004 tige 24v on memorial day weekend. sellers delivered it to me from out state as they were passing through my area for the holiday weekend. Said the brakes and everything had been gone through before their departure so it would be safe for them and me.

    I had noticed a metal on metal rubbing when driving. Sounded like a rotor. Finally had a day off yesterday so i took the wheel off to check it out. Rotor is grooved and no pads. Just metal plates. Tracked down some pads, but couldnt get the piston back in despite using all my force. Finally decided to open the bleeder thinking maybe he but too much break fluid in. It came shooting out. Had to do that a couple times to finally get the piston in. I noticed the caliper on the wheel in front was locked up. Greased those pins and bled a little to get that piston in. Hooked it all up and drove it down the street to make sure they weren't going to lock up.

    I called several boat and trailer shops to ask what could have caused this and if I should be worried. I got a different answer from each place. One said it sounded like the line is clogged and master cylinder and calipers need to be replaced. Another said the piston probably gotnpushed too far out. A other said something else.

    I installed new bearing buddies and took it out today. When i got home we noticed some sizzle sounds and steam coming from the bearing buddy. Im guessing this is any water that got trapped evaporating, but is it a bad sign if they were that hot inside? 100+° day and drove 35+ miles. Some of that on highway. It was also pushing the new grease i shot in there out (see pic).

    Am I ok or should I be worried?
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    #2
    Looks like the grease got hot and expanded. See if it continues. Was the wheel hot?

    Comment

      #3
      Something what hot in there. It was steaming, sizzling (likely water evaporating), and warm. Sadly i ended up taking it in to get looked at because I didn't want a catastrophic failure. They haven't called me with a summary of how bad it is yet

      Comment

        #4
        I've got an '06 24V on a Dorsey trailer and the trailer only has brakes on the front axle. Normal PA / MD / WV towing isn't a problem, but there's a huuuuuuge hill I tow down to get to a lake. Even going something like 5mph, when I get to the bottom the grease is bubbling. The brakes aren't smoking but it's still too hot for the grease. Those rotors can get real hot braking. I'm adding brakes to the rear axle to help alleviate that. I'm also switching to aluminum rims for an unrelated reason but I'm curious if they can help dissipate the heat better.

        Does your trailer have brakes on both axles? Were you towing down a large hill or doing a lot of braking?

        When you went to bleed your brakes, was the trailer unhooked from the truck and the master cylinder pulled all the way out? If it was still hooked to something, there may have been pressure in the lines from that. My trailer was an unmaintained disaster and I had a piston hang but it had some rust on it so I just replaced the caliper.

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by skidaddle View Post
          I've got an '06 24V on a Dorsey trailer and the trailer only has brakes on the front axle. Normal PA / MD / WV towing isn't a problem, but there's a huuuuuuge hill I tow down to get to a lake. Even going something like 5mph, when I get to the bottom the grease is bubbling. The brakes aren't smoking but it's still too hot for the grease. Those rotors can get real hot braking. I'm adding brakes to the rear axle to help alleviate that. I'm also switching to aluminum rims for an unrelated reason but I'm curious if they can help dissipate the heat better.

          Does your trailer have brakes on both axles? Were you towing down a large hill or doing a lot of braking?

          When you went to bleed your brakes, was the trailer unhooked from the truck and the master cylinder pulled all the way out? If it was still hooked to something, there may have been pressure in the lines from that. My trailer was an unmaintained disaster and I had a piston hang but it had some rust on it so I just replaced the caliper.
          Update on the problem I had. I pulled the spindles apart and the grease had water in it. The grease on the spindle and inside the bearings was a much lighter color than the grease I pumped in. It went from dark green to a minty green. When I popped off the bearing buddy on one side, a little water actually poured out. I pulled the bearings and got new seals. Cleaned the bearings thoroughly in kerosene, repacked them, re-greased the spindle and re-installed. Towed that huge hill yesterday, no problem. No bubbling, no expelling grease, everything was fine. My thought is your seals may have been bad and you got some water into the grease inside the spindles. That was definitely the culprit causing the grease bubbling on mine. The bearings and races all looked great so I didn't bother replacing them.

          Here's some Dexter UFP part numbers:

          L68149 Bearing (1.375" ID)
          L68111 Race (2.361" OD)
          L68110 Race (2.328" OD)
          L44649 Bearing (1.063" ID)
          L44610 Race (1.980" OD)
          168255TB Seal (2.561" OD x 1.687" ID) **ALT P/N: National / Timken 470460, UD0135E, Dexter K71-802-00, Dexter 7028**
          168233 Seal (2.332" OD x 1.688" ID)
          165649 Cotter Pin

          Comment

            #6
            Another thing to consider is the breaks getting warm or hot on that long hill. Hydraulic tongue breaks will push the boat up against the ball and apply the breaks the whole way down. Adding another set of brakes to the other axel won’t eliminate the issue only make it worse. You’ll be heating up those ones also. Only way around this is to eliminate the source of your problem and go with electric brakes.

            Originally posted by skidaddle View Post

            Update on the problem I had. I pulled the spindles apart and the grease had water in it. The grease on the spindle and inside the bearings was a much lighter color than the grease I pumped in. It went from dark green to a minty green. When I popped off the bearing buddy on one side, a little water actually poured out. I pulled the bearings and got new seals. Cleaned the bearings thoroughly in kerosene, repacked them, re-greased the spindle and re-installed. Towed that huge hill yesterday, no problem. No bubbling, no expelling grease, everything was fine. My thought is your seals may have been bad and you got some water into the grease inside the spindles. That was definitely the culprit causing the grease bubbling on mine. The bearings and races all looked great so I didn't bother replacing them.

            Here's some Dexter UFP part numbers:

            L68149 Bearing (1.375" ID)
            L68111 Race (2.361" OD)
            L68110 Race (2.328" OD)
            L44649 Bearing (1.063" ID)
            L44610 Race (1.980" OD)
            168255TB Seal (2.561" OD x 1.687" ID) **ALT P/N: National / Timken 470460, UD0135E, Dexter K71-802-00, Dexter 7028**
            168233 Seal (2.332" OD x 1.688" ID)
            165649 Cotter Pin

            Comment

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