brakes question - Dorsey tandem for 2003 24v

[toastie22]

I've just bought a 2003 24v with the original Dorsey tandem trailer underneath, with surge brakes (drum).
It's aged well, but in checking the operation of the brakes, have noticed there's no hydraulic hose between the connector where the hard line exits the trailer frame and the connector on the axle where the hard lines start again and split to each side (see photos).
It's a boat that I expect has lived on a lift for a number of years, so the trailer probably would have been stored so the brakes were a non-issue, however the boat will get towed around on the trailer now, so I need to address the brakes.
I expect the drums will need a recondition too.
I'm wanting some advice on whether it's worthwhile doing whatever is required on the drums, sorting out the brake lines (the connectors at the end of the hard lines are rusted too), and maybe a recondition of the actuator & (broken) breakaway at the hitch end OR is it better to upgrade the system to electric of some sort?
Please IGNORE the electrical tape and trailer wiring in the photo of the actuator & hitch - the boat transport company at this end did a bit of a temporary workaround to deliver it to me - it now has compliant safety chain shackles and a replacement light board & wiring until the trailer electrics are upgraded.
It's a heavy rig, so I want to make sure I have good trailer brakes for towing up & down hills and on winding roads, but the original set up was, I expect, designed to cope, so if I get it working properly then I'm happy just to get it back up & running and not change to a whole new system.
Cost will be a factor here in my decision.
Tow vehicle wise, I have plenty or pulling and stopping power with a 2010 Range Rover supercharged 5.0 litre, and would prefer not to install an electric brake controller unless it's really necessary.
KoolAid has already mentioned to me that I need to check out the trailer for structural rust, due to box section rather than C section construction.

There also looks to be rusted mounts / screws for what I'm guessing might have been side bunks on the side of the mudguards? (see photos) - will address this with some kind of replacements.

Suspension / trailer height:
I have a level driveway, but there's a dip where the gutter & road edge is, so when reversing the trailer into it, the prop & rudder protector (that metal frame) scrapes on the footpath (sidewalk) which isn't ideal, but its doing its job of protecting the prop/rudder - I can't be the only person with this issue - is it feasible to modify / raise the suspension enough to avoid this? without creating a bad / unstable outcome for driving on the road, or do I just continue with the workaround of placing wooden planks in the gutter which the trailer wheels ride up over at the crucial point to avoid the scrape?

Thanks in advance for any comments / advice.

[cucv]

Looks like your looking at a total brake system overhaul. I'd go elec. Over hyd but doesn't sound like you want to go that way.


Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

[ern]

I've just bought a 2003 24v with the original Dorsey tandem trailer underneath, with surge brakes (drum).
It's aged well, but in checking the operation of the brakes, have noticed there's no hydraulic hose between the connector where the hard line exits the trailer frame and the connector on the axle where the hard lines start again and split to each side (see photos).
It's a boat that I expect has lived on a lift for a number of years, so the trailer probably would have been stored so the brakes were a non-issue, however the boat will get towed around on the trailer now, so I need to address the brakes.
I expect the drums will need a recondition too.
I'm wanting some advice on whether it's worthwhile doing whatever is required on the drums, sorting out the brake lines (the connectors at the end of the hard lines are rusted too), and maybe a recondition of the actuator & (broken) breakaway at the hitch end OR is it better to upgrade the system to electric of some sort?
Please IGNORE the electrical tape and trailer wiring in the photo of the actuator & hitch - the boat transport company at this end did a bit of a temporary workaround to deliver it to me - it now has compliant safety chain shackles and a replacement light board & wiring until the trailer electrics are upgraded.
It's a heavy rig, so I want to make sure I have good trailer brakes for towing up & down hills and on winding roads, but the original set up was, I expect, designed to cope, so if I get it working properly then I'm happy just to get it back up & running and not change to a whole new system.
Cost will be a factor here in my decision.
Tow vehicle wise, I have plenty or pulling and stopping power with a 2010 Range Rover supercharged 5.0 litre, and would prefer not to install an electric brake controller unless it's really necessary.
KoolAid has already mentioned to me that I need to check out the trailer for structural rust, due to box section rather than C section construction.

There also looks to be rusted mounts / screws for what I'm guessing might have been side bunks on the side of the mudguards? (see photos) - will address this with some kind of replacements.

Suspension / trailer height:
I have a level driveway, but there's a dip where the gutter & road edge is, so when reversing the trailer into it, the prop & rudder protector (that metal frame) scrapes on the footpath (sidewalk) which isn't ideal, but its doing its job of protecting the prop/rudder - I can't be the only person with this issue - is it feasible to modify / raise the suspension enough to avoid this? without creating a bad / unstable outcome for driving on the road, or do I just continue with the workaround of placing wooden planks in the gutter which the trailer wheels ride up over at the crucial point to avoid the scrape?

Thanks in advance for any comments / advice.

For what its worth, here is what I would do:

!. Check for structural rust, and address any problems there first.

2. Keep the surge brakes and repair/replace parts as necessary.

3. those "rusted mounts/screws". are to mount the inner fender. The inner fender on most boat trailers is marine grade plywood cut to shape and covered with carpet to protect the boat hull when loading/unloading.

4. Trailer height. There is more involved than the prop guard dragging.(shallow boat ramps/ garage door clearance, etc.) Raising the trailer can be done, but after looking at what I think is your driveway, I would just adjust the way you approach it. I assume you are backing through the gate that is open. I would back in at an angle that puts your right wheel on the slope and back until it is at or nearly at the sidewalk then sharply turn and bring the left wheel up to meet it in front of your gate. Not having all the trailer wheels in or near the lowest point at the same time should solve the prop guard dragging issue. When pulling out, turn early and have the trailer follow a similar path.

Good luck!

[toastie22]

Looks like your looking at a total brake system overhaul. I'd go elec. Over hyd but doesn't sound like you want to go that way.


Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

Thanks for that - I'm definitely open to changing the system if the existing is too far gone, but wanted to consider keeping original, if that was recoverable, and financially workable. Think I'll take it to a boat trailer workshop and get a costing either way, and go from there.

[toastie22]

For what its worth, here is what I would do:

!. Check for structural rust, and address any problems there first.

2. Keep the surge brakes and repair/replace parts as necessary.

3. those "rusted mounts/screws". are to mount the inner fender. The inner fender on most boat trailers is marine grade plywood cut to shape and covered with carpet to protect the boat hull when loading/unloading.

4. Trailer height. There is more involved than the prop guard dragging.(shallow boat ramps/ garage door clearance, etc.) Raising the trailer can be done, but after looking at what I think is your driveway, I would just adjust the way you approach it. I assume you are backing through the gate that is open. I would back in at an angle that puts your right wheel on the slope and back until it is at or nearly at the sidewalk then sharply turn and bring the left wheel up to meet it in front of your gate. Not having all the trailer wheels in or near the lowest point at the same time should solve the prop guard dragging issue. When pulling out, turn early and have the trailer follow a similar path.

Good luck!

Thanks for that - will get it checked and weigh up cost of rejuvenation vs change to electric over hydraulic, and go from there.

[toastie22]

Does anyone have photos of an inner fender so I can show someone who can price it up?

[cucv]

Does anyone have photos of an inner fender so I can show someone who can price it up?

They are carpet covered pieces of plywood on my trailer.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

[toastie22]

They are carpet covered pieces of plywood on my trailer.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

Brilliant, thanks cucv - I've looked at mine, and it looks pretty straight forward actually - min e doesn't have the vertical stay that yours has, but the mounting bolts on mine are all still there, so I'll get into it!