Z1 Issues

[chpthril]

I have a Z1 and the PVC inside the RAM on early model Z1 had to be adjusted to reduce the porpoising at higher speeds. Even today, my Z1 requires the TAPs to be at 8 at higher speeds running across the lake. At 10 MPH for wake surfing and 20 MPH for wake boarding I do not experience porpoising. Wake surfing TAPs at 5-8 and wake boarding TAPs at 4-5. I use no ballast and would like to know if adding ballast to the bow or stern increases the wake for boarding or surfing. I would like to get more distance to wake surf behind the boat between the swim platform and tip of the board. Currently I only get about 2 feet of play room. Any advice?

Just to clarify, @ "8" the TAPS should be in the up position and would induce porpoising. Plate down, numbers at lower end of gauge brings bow down to eliminate porpoising. If your plate is down when the gauge is at the higher numbers, either the gauge is wired backwards, or the position sender is reversed, may want to double check it's operation.

For your surf wake, depending on your board and skills, the Z1 actually likes to be at around 12.5 with ballast and 11-11.5 without ballast, speed will lengthen the pocket.

The Z1 responds well to ballast and really does like ballast up front for both surfing and boarding.

I have only surfed the Z1 a few times so I wont claim to have it dialed in, but this would be a nice start: Factory bow sac is a good fit and fills to about 400#'s and a pair of the 400# V-drive sacs for the rear storage. The 2 400's could be stacked for surfing. This would give some ballast for both surfing and boarding.

For just surfing, you could get a 750# for your surf side, and a 400 for the walk way or the factory bow sac if you dont want sacs laying around.

[NHarp1]

Thanks for the ballast advice. If I speed the boat up to 11-12 mph, I seem to not find the grove to ride the wake with no ballast. It was not until I dropped the baot to 10 mph the rope slacked up. Maybe a fat sack in the bow area whille change the boat attitude. I will have to play around whith weight distribution. Thanks.

[MoneyPity]

For what it is worth I don't know if it applies to V-Drives like it did with my last I/O but porpoising Can be caused by prop pitch and slippage at various trim levels and speed.

On my old I/O (Fourwinns) If I was running full out with trim just above mid level It porpoised like heck. I talked to Stiletto and they recommended a different prop pitch and problem was gone no matter how I was loaded or properly trimmed.

I read in this thread that the Convex V of the early Z1 hulls was a possible culprit but has anyone talked with Acme about it?

[MoneyPity]

Yep me and the goats. They just run too fast for this old man.

On the porpoising issue I looked up some notes I made re: warranty concerns and found that if TAPS plate is set at 6 or above the 20V played flipper at above MPH.

To compensate I had to drop Taps plate to 4.5 - 5.5 and reduce speed a couple mph.

Other solution was leave Taps set high and run full tilt. Hell on fuel consumption but great on the fun meter. I have confirmed that props can compensate with a trade off in performance on one end of the spectrum or another.

[xpjim1]

I only run taps on 8 when the lake is glass

[MoneyPity]

I only run taps on 8 when the lake is glass

When on glass is when I find porpoising worse @ 8 and 35 mph

[xpjim1]

Then you need a bigger boat

[MoneyPity]

Then you need a bigger boat

Bigger boat will require bigger garage.

Bigger garage means bigger lot

Bigger boat would require more gas to tow.

Bigger boat would need more than my Jeep to tow

Bigger boat would cost more money

Is CHEAPER in long run to keep 20V, lower taps plate and go faster :

I will live with the porpoising and change prop pitch for little less hole shot and little more mph.