2100v fuel delivery problem.. HELP !!!

[jciscott]

my 1999 200v was, and still is in need of some help. I have finally replaced the strut, ( no small task, worst job ever, I will tell the story if anyone wants to hear... ) , fixed the tranny cooler I broke working on the strut, new gas tanks sending unit, ( piece of cake ) and done the oil change and installed a depth finder. After the oil change, I was running it looking for leaks and stumbled then it just quit...
After messing I found not getting gas, only air out of the fuel pressure sensor valve thingy. I replaced the water seperator, and I can hear the fuel pumm run when I turn on the key, but it seems the fuel pump is not sucking gas from the tank.... The tank is 3/4 full ( per my newly working guage, ha )

Any thoughts ??? does the fuel pump suck gas from the tank, through the seperator then pressurize it to the FI rails all buy it's self ??

How do you take the fuel pump cover off ??

Why do I do these things in June ??

[chpthril]

I have not had one out, but is the fuel pickup also part of the level sender, if so, I would go back to the last thing you "fixed" before the problem surfaced. Double check all the clamps and hoses.

Not sure if yours does, but some of the older Tiges had 2 pumps, I think.

[jciscott]

still not getting gas....

my pickup tube is seperate from the level sensor.
the "no gas " problem started before the replacement of the level sensor. The last thing "fixed" was the oil change...... I looked to see if I unhooked a wire or anything during the oilchange.... but saw nothing.

I am thinking maybe debris in the pickup or line or water seperator.... or a slice in the fuel line not letting it suck gas from the tank..

Still, I could use some advice on the fuel pump and fuel filter system...

[jciscott]

TigeMD saves the day !!

TigeMD informed me that the fuel system is not self priming, so I bought a outboard motor squeeze ball to prime the system but it would not pump.....hmmmmm.... and I discovered the anti siphion valve was clogged. I broke it taking it off, but by shoving the hose into the tank, the boat started right up...... and ran great.

So... when replacing the fuel seperator filter, you must prime the system. If the system won't pump gas, suspect the anto siphon valve.....

[gman]

jciscott
how old is your boat?

[TeamAllen]

jciscott
how old is your boat?

1999

[dogbert]

TigeMD informed me that the fuel system is not self priming, so I bought a outboard motor squeeze ball to prime the system but it would not pump.....hmmmmm.... and I discovered the anti siphion valve was clogged. I broke it taking it off, but by shoving the hose into the tank, the boat started right up...... and ran great.

So... when replacing the fuel seperator filter, you must prime the system. If the system won't pump gas, suspect the anto siphon valve.....

Thanks for posting the resolution!

[jciscott]

now having trouble finding the right parts...

I am having a rough time finding the right part to make this thing work. I am not real excited about replacing the anti-siphon fitting, but rather will just out on a straight thru fitting, but.... finding the correct assembley that will thread into the tank with a pickup tube to the bottem.... no one seems to have anything even close.....

I may need to make the thing......

Any ideas.... ?? :

[chpthril]

I am having a rough time finding the right part to make this thing work. I am not real excited about replacing the anti-siphon fitting, but rather will just out on a straight thru fitting, but.... finding the correct assembley that will thread into the tank with a pickup tube to the bottem.... no one seems to have anything even close.....

I may need to make the thing......

Any ideas.... ?? :

Please fix this thing correctly, boat fires are not fun...........TRUST ME

[teachercop]

Did you replace the valve?

[jciscott]

The thing I needed was the brass 90deg fitting that turned into the tank. It needed to be a 1/2 male pipe thread into the tank, WITH a tube that would go to the bottem of the tank. outside the tank was a femail 1/2" pipe thread that the fitting screwed into. The old anti-siphin fitting was aluminim, 1/2" pipe thread to 3/8 barbed hose. It was cracked and broke off inside the 90deg fitting. I got a new brass fitting to replace the antisiphon, it is a male pipe thread to 3/8" barbed hose. I then drilled and tapped the remains of the old aluminum fitting out, and inserted the new brass fitting.
I no longer have an anti-siphon check valve...

[teachercop]

Just encountered a similar phenomenon up here at Lake Powell, elevation 4300. After a few hours and pulls, shut engine off, change riders or swim, the boat fired up but presented with a spongee idle and would not take a load or increase rpm’s. I suspected contaminated fuel; I pulled and drained the water separator filter, no improvement. Checked all plugs nothing. We were in Padre’s bay, called for a tow, extended eta, so I pulled the fuel line on the fuel rail, with everyone else out of the boat, turned the key to pump fuel into an empty water bottle. Hooked the fuel line back up, all systems return to normal.

Called dealer, they said motor hot, need to open cover every stop. NEver had that problem in 8 years,,peculiar why it is an issue now. Plus, just was at Lake Havasu over the 4th of July with temps at a reported 124 degrees, with no issues, 100 degrees at Lake Powell.

I was initially thinking bad fuel. When we return to town, the Maverik gas station where we filled up had burned down that day. Coincidence??

Dumped some fuel treatment in tank, filled up, next day no problems.

Third day, issues. Broke the fuel line, everyone else in water, hooked it up and return to normal. Took boat to shop, put a scanner on and found no trouble codes. I bought a fuel pressure gauge and new fuel filter and returned to lake. Problem reoccurred. Fuel pressure per spec is 30 psi +/- 2 psi. We were at 28-30 under normal however with problem we were at 8 psi.

I was leaning towards fuel pump. $293 plus tax in Page at Lake Powell for part and if mechanic chores another 1-2 hours at $95/hour. I would be replacing the pump. I was concerned as I was not convinced pump was bad as the problem was intermittent.

I contacted another boat mechanic to price shop pump. Mechanic told me I did not need pump, he knew what problem was and could fix for $80 and would do the work at night returning boat in AM for lake.

This past Sunday, after lake, I took boat over and we pulled the cover off, pulled anti-siphon. Mechanic showed me with a Mittyvac vacuum tester valve was requiring 5-6 psi to open as it was designed to require 1-2 psi. He took a small drift and tapped the SS ball. He explained over time the valve corrodes, rusts, pump weakens a bit and higher elevation develops this problem. Running two days no problem. Mechanic is absolutely positive this is problem claims he attacked a hundred of them. He claims he and his mechanic buddy tried to notify Mercury to no avail.

I suppose it is wise to watch those valves....

[dogbert]

Good info! Thanks for sharing!

[TeamAllen]

Sounds good. I had the exact same problem at Powell earlier this month. We used Chevron gas though. I was thinking pump as well, but like yours it only happen twice and restated after a couple of minutes. Your $80 was well spent and thank you for sharing.

[jciscott]

I followed a bunch of the same stuff Teachercop did.... including replacing the water seperator... after that I noticed all I got out of the fuel rail was air. I went as far as to buy an outboard motor squeeze bulb to "prime" the system. The squeeze bulb would not suck gas through the anti-siphon at all.
Thats when I found it stuck closed...
The really strange part was I had already had the boat out once before my spring tune up. I changed the oil, started the motor and during the post oil change run test is when it died......
There is a super fine screen on the bottem of the pick-up so it did not suck in any foreign matter.... not very big anyway.....