2100v fuel delivery problem.. HELP !!!

[TeamAllen]

I just got my fuel pump and cooler parts today. I'll be buying a new anti siphon valve for the trip as well. I will be bringing them with me to Lake Havasu this week.

I found a few more interesting links on this subject. Check em out.

http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Bullet/99/99_07.pdf
http://boards.trailerboats.com/cgi-b...c;f=6;t=000567

[dogbert]

Good info, TeamAllen! This should probably be a sticky in the mechanical section.

[jciscott]

UPDATE !!! Since replacing the anti-siphon with a straight through fitting, I have put about 35 hours on the boat. On 2 occasions, both after ahard run adn then a 30 min sit in the sun, my engine vaporlocked...... the first time it has ever happened.....
I hit the gas pressure test valve and got some air befor getting gas, and I let it cool with the cover open. Both times, it started up after a little fooling around.
I am wondering if the antisiphon actually helps to prevent the vaporlock condition by preventing back flow of fuel to the tank, ( check valve action)

Anyway.... the mystery continues.....

[dogbert]

I seem to be having this problem more and more. If I don't let the engine cool down running in idle, I get the same issue. If I run the blower, it seems to help. I'm beginning to wonder if they changed the way they're refining the gas so that this issue is more prevalent. I can't seem to think of a way to cool down the fuel line without putting some kind of cooling system that is independent of the raw water cooling.

[R&T Babich]

dogbert,jciscott - what does the water temp gauge read (ignition switch ON, engine not running) when you're having the problem? On cars the water temp can go way up after shutdown. I ran some tests on ours last trip out and the water temp (170 deg) barely went up 4 deg after a hard run and sitting for 10 min. A temp gauge on the fuel pump to fuel rail line (104 deg) showed little increase in temp after shutdown. If the water temp had gone up it may have transferred heat thru the raw water line to the fuel pump. A large brass check valve in the raw water line between the fuel pump and the thermo housing would stop that.

[jciscott]

in my other thread, I am discussing engine temp... My temp gauge drops to about 170 (from 210ish) when it is sitting and when the problem is occuring ...

[jleger98]

ok, so its not a 2100v, but anyone know what size the anti-siphon valve is on the 97 pre2150 ??

[TeamAllen]

I bought a 3/8" with 1/4" NPT threads for mine but I haven't installed it yet. I should get to it this week. I can let you know. I didn't have any problems at Lake Havasu last weekend. And it was HOT! I've got the new fuel pump and cooler (also not installed yet). I don't think will have time before the weekend to get to that.

[mtowers]

Hey guys, I know this thread is pretty old, but I'm a new Tige owner as of last August (2011) (and first post) and going through some throttle bog issues possibly related to things discussed here. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I've already learned so much just reading the forum.

Boat: 1996 2100WT direct drive (although the previous owner said it was a 2150, but based on the web archive pics it looks like the 2100), Merc Mag 350 EFI Gen + Tournament Ski edition.

When I bought it the engine ran great, but as of late it has developed problems. The engine starts and idles fine and seems to run well for the first couple hours, but then starts to bog when accelerating in gear to the point there's no acceleration, and when the tranny is disengaged it seems the bog is around 2000 rpm. Early on it seemed to happen when gas was getting low and filling up would help/resolve the issue. Now it happens regardless of gas level. It always starts fine, whether after boarding or sitting for a while.

Sooooo....based on info learned on the site (thanks!) I have changed the fuel filter (poured out the old one and it was nasty, yellowish color fuel with copper colored sediment, not good), before I put the new one on I turned the key (not all the way to crank over) to prime the fuel system and the fuel pump spit fuel out the filter fitting, I checked the fuel delivery line from the tank (it goes straight to the filter fitting) and the tank vent line (vents on the middle port side) for clogs (blew air through and no clogs), will siphon the tank to start with fresh fuel and add the marine stabil to help clean the fuel system, and now I'm on to the anti-siphon valve, or so I think.

From what I've read here, the valve is right off the 90 degree fitting from the tank correct? I pulled mine and it's not an anti-siphon valve, just straight through. Hmmmm...maybe the previous owner had issues and changed it out to be straight through? First question is, besides the obvious safety issues, would installing a proper anti-siphon valve help alleviate these bog issues for some reason? It’s also super hard/slow to fill (read this is common), but is this related? My fill port is in the middle back. Any other suggestions?

Side question, in trying to get at the fuel delivery and tank vent lines to check for kinks, I was trying to pull out the ski locker floor above the tank but the locker opening (even without the door) was too small to get it out. I figured you have to pull the seatback out and pull the floor out through there but couldn’t figure out how. My locker door has fiberglass all the way around it and I pulled the obvious 4 bolts attaching the seatback to the fiberglass/wood inside the locker but no luck. Do I have to take off the side panels to slide the seatback out? That would seem excessive but it’s the only thing I can think off…

Sorry for the long post and taking this thread over, but it seemed related and I’m in need of the expert help from the guys that are on this thread. Thanks!

Mike

[jleger98]

This might be a stretch, but I've had an issue like this before where the engine would bog and eventually not start because the blower hose was not hooked up, pinched, or had a major hole in it. The symptoms sound the same. This happened especially when we were surfing. When you would open the engine cover and let it sit for a minute or two, it would start right back up and run fine, so instead of a fuel issue, it was actually an air issue. Just a thought.

[mtowers]

I was hoping you'd respond as we have similar boats! Thanks for quick help.

I did check the blower and it seemed to spitting air out the vent just fine. And it always starts just fine, after a hard run or after sitting for a while. So that's keeping me on the fuel system hunt. Just spoke with the "local" (2.5 hours away) Tige dealer service dept. and went through my list. He said to also check the fuel pressure, fuel pressure regulator, or it could be clogged fuel injectors.

No advice on getting the locker floor out though, damn.

[jleger98]

yeah, was a shot in the dark. I would still try to eyeball the whole blower hose though, just to completely rule it out.

Couple other thoughts....is the engine running hot? Its possible the water intake is plugged and you're not getting enough water to cool the fuel pump properly....or your fuel pump could be just starting to go....(I'm assuming you have the water-cooled fuel pump like I do) When you are having the problem, remove the blue plug right under the fuel pump and see if there is decent water pressure coming out there (it'll be hot so beware).

Otherwise, yeah I would look at fuel pressure like your "local" says.

[jleger98]

No advice on getting the locker floor out though, damn.

The back of my boat must be different than yours. In order to get the floor of my locker out, its just 4 screws and it just lifts right out. If you have a picture....

[R&T Babich]

... He said to also check the fuel pressure, fuel pressure regulator, or it could be clogged fuel injectors....

If your fuel rails have any extra pipe plug ports you can add a small fuel pressure gauge into the port.
Ours has 3 unused ports and it makes checking the pressure easy if there's any question.

[mtowers]

Good idea jleger98, I'll take a look at the blower line again and the impeller and make sure it's still in good shape and water is circulating with good pressure. I replaced it 8 months ago.

I read somewhere on here that you did that R&T Babich. Looks like I'll be investing in a fuel pressure tester.

Hopefully these pics attach ok. Looks like mine is the water cooled pump like yours jleger98.

And the locker floor, too big to fit through the hatch door opening and can't figure out how to pull the seatback out. 4 screws to the inside wood are out.

Lastly, the fuel delivery line is shown, does that 1995 mean it's 1995 original? Add to the replacement list if it is, but need to figure out how to get to the locker floor out first to make it easier to run a new line in.