No, I would use the pylon for pulling, just for people to get up on the step.
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I don't think you are reading this wrong. And the thing is, the dealer said to me, at least 10 times, "We order the boats with everything but the ballast, so you don't have to worry about options". And right before I purchased, I asked to see the list of installed options, so I could compare what was still available as options. He gave me the same line. So I wish I pushed it harder. In the end, its just a grab handle, and I am sure I am going to have one installed, and it will not cause a problem, but its an annoyance that shouldn't be there.
I also don't have the table option, and the bow cushion.
Lastly, don't get me wrong, I luv the boat. About to head out right now, for a day on the water with my kids.http://wake9.com/
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Originally posted by ragboy View PostI don't think you are reading this wrong. And the thing is, the dealer said to me, at least 10 times, "We order the boats with everything but the ballast, so you don't have to worry about options". And right before I purchased, I asked to see the list of installed options, so I could compare what was still available as options. He gave me the same line. So I wish I pushed it harder. In the end, its just a grab handle, and I am sure I am going to have one installed, and it will not cause a problem, but its an annoyance that shouldn't be there.
I also don't have the table option, and the bow cushion.
Lastly, don't get me wrong, I luv the boat. About to head out right now, for a day on the water with my kids.Cursed by a fortune cookie: "Your principles mean more to you than any money or success."
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Originally posted by Gschmidt1 View PostI dont really understand the necessity for a grab handle...can't people flop onto the teak?http://wake9.com/
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OK, I ordered the transom grab handle, 24". I had my dad (he's a handyman, just drives over with trailer full of tools) help me out, and we installed it. Everything went well, I may have liked to go a bit lower, but wanted to make sure the big washers would fit on the back side. The only thing that was an issue, is the fiberglass is only about 1/4" thick there. So DEF not to be used as a tow mount of any kind. Once it was all secure, it is very sturdy, feels rock solid. We will only be using it for a people handle, so I feel pretty good about it.http://wake9.com/
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ragboy, looks really nice. I am doing the same and looks like the bar from the same company. I guess the only difference is the location of mine (above the Tige sticker in the back) compared to your and I bought the 36 inch bar. I have already did all the cutting and drilling that was needed to fix the bar but still came up short because I stripped the nuts and screws so I have to order another bar. So, I have been taking pictures the entire time and have come down to a conclusion.
If installing a grab bar is your first DIY on a boat, I would suggest another DIY project before you do this. Reason: (1) the transom area is not smooth but semi rounded which adds for a level of difficulty (2) If you are not good at math, then grab a calculator but it is better to have the calculator in the first place (3) measure 15 times before drilling/cutting (4) Don't trust Tige and their placement of their sticker [I found out even before I cut that the Tige sticker that they put on the transom is off by 1 inch from center. Too far to the right on mine but I did find out that the sticker is level with the boat) (5) if you need to do some thinking, walk away for 30-60 minutes before doing anything and (6) buring gelcoat NEVER smells good.
But, I will post all the info that I have and what I did soon. I am doing a DIY project posting here but want to get the new bar in and on the boat (this small project will only take 15 minutes since I already have everything cut and ready for installation).
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Originally posted by da.bell View Postragboy, looks really nice. I am doing the same and looks like the bar from the same company. I guess the only difference is the location of mine (above the Tige sticker in the back) compared to your and I bought the 36 inch bar. I have already did all the cutting and drilling that was needed to fix the bar but still came up short because I stripped the nuts and screws so I have to order another bar. So, I have been taking pictures the entire time and have come down to a conclusion.
If installing a grab bar is your first DIY on a boat, I would suggest another DIY project before you do this. Reason: (1) the transom area is not smooth but semi rounded which adds for a level of difficulty (2) If you are not good at math, then grab a calculator but it is better to have the calculator in the first place (3) measure 15 times before drilling/cutting (4) Don't trust Tige and their placement of their sticker [I found out even before I cut that the Tige sticker that they put on the transom is off by 1 inch from center. Too far to the right on mine but I did find out that the sticker is level with the boat) (5) if you need to do some thinking, walk away for 30-60 minutes before doing anything and (6) buring gelcoat NEVER smells good.
But, I will post all the info that I have and what I did soon. I am doing a DIY project posting here but want to get the new bar in and on the boat (this small project will only take 15 minutes since I already have everything cut and ready for installation).
There were a couple of reasons why I put on the bottom.
1. Its easier to grab there, when you are coming out of the water. We experimented from the water.
2. If you look at pictures of tiges, like in the 24ve gallery, it is really clear to see, that when they put the handle on, they actually make the sticker LOWER. So if you put the handle HIGHER than the sticker, you are not putting the grab bar in the same place as the factory installs it, but even higher. Because the sticker on a boat without the handle is HIGHER than a sticker with the handle. Looking at the transom from the inside, this looked much trickier, because you get in the way of the activity center, and the transome is MORE curved there. I wanted as flat a surface as possible for the most strength.
3. On the bottom, the outside bottom edge is very defined, but the inside is not quite so defined, that hard corner is more rounded inside. I wanted enough room to have my big washer to hold flat and also seal the outside flat. So I went up a bit higher than what I would have liked. IMHO, it is TOO close to the sticker.
4. I am replacing the sticker. I am working with an artist to make a sticker, just like the tige sticker, that says téam garcia. So I will put the sticker a bit higher, to look better with my placement.
So, it was my first DIY on this boat, but I spent some time researching, had my pop back me up, and there was no beer involved. I think that should be a rule. Whenever drilling holes in your hull, NO BEER. :-)http://wake9.com/
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ragboy, I wasn't even thinking about drinking when I was doing the DIY on the boat. However, this project was the first one that I have ever walked into and had a very level mind about it. I didn't rush or do anything foolish.
As for the sticker, I never used the sticker as a reference point but what I did use was exactly what you used. The eyebolts. I ran a piece of string from the top eyebolt on the right to the top eyebolt on the left. Then measured the string to see how much space there was and performed the calculations from there. We mounted the bar about 3 inches above the string. I am extremely happy with the placement and from looking at the bar when placed on the boat (no, the bar isn't attached), everything looks really good. Just can not wait until the new bar comes in so I can get this project done and another one started. Not sure what the next project will be though???????
So, it seems that we both did the same thing with a few differences. It will be interesting to see what you have done in person. Since you live close by, I am sure our paths will cross. Good job BTW.
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Originally posted by da.bell View Postragboy,
one more thing. Did you mount a rubber washer between the bar and the fiberglass? I did thinking that this would help reduce the amount friction that will be pushing against the gelcoat and metal bar....
I wasn't implying you were drinking, just tongue in cheek. I feel your pain on the stripped bolts. That is EXACTLY why I asked the human torque wrench over.
Its a good thing those handles are dirt cheap. I almost got the 36", but I thought it was a bit too big. So anxious to see yours. I am sure we will cross paths eventually.
My next DIY....
My tower speakers take a lot of room on my tower. I want lights up there also. I found some I like, dbot5, 2 separate 3 lights on their own clamp. I REALLY liked the dbot5 surf rack, and looking at the clamp gave me a real good idea. All of their stuff uses the same nice universal clamp. It has a spline that comes out of the clamp, that the accessory slides down on. Allowing you to rotate by changing splines 11.5º at a time. If you look in the clamp, its just a big allen bolt holding the spline to the clamp.
So...
So I don't have to make more room for clamps on my tower, I am going to remove my tower speakers, and drill a hole for the allen bolt in the top of the infinity clamp, and bolt the spline so I can attach it perfectly vertical to my infinity mounts. So I will have my lights, right where I wan't them. I THINK it will work cool.http://wake9.com/
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