Well it was a good season until it wasn't. Need to pull the engine on my 20V, I read the post about the 2000 21V posted 2-24-19, is it going to be the same? Any help suggestions would be great. Have a rod knock that needs to be investigated. I fairly mechanically inclined and capable. However I do like to ask before I figure things out the hard way. TIA
-
-
The 21v video will be very close to your boat. Pull the back seat out, pull the pedestal, pull the floor, pull all hatches and pretty much anything in the rear compartments. You will have tilt the engine enough to get it up and rotated 90 degrees in the back hatch area. Then lift out. If you're going to tear the engine down anyway, pull the exhaust manifolds off to give you more clearance. The v drive should be easy to pull from the trans too. If I recall correctly it is only six bolts.Oh Yeah! -
Do you have the GM350? If so, there is a bellhousing bolt inside the upper mounting point for a top mount starter. Be sure you look inside as it does not like to come apart with a bolt still installed! Not really difficult to take out (if you are young or a contortionist). Hardest part is finding a point high enough to lift it out of the boat. Removing the exhaust manifolds make it much easier.Comment
-
I pulled mine in 1 piece and reinstalled it the same way. Nothing too difficult just have to be careful not to slam it into anything.
Mine's a 23V but I believe the engine compartment is all the same.
IMG_20170921_174401-1619x1214.jpgComment
-
Sonic is correct, the 23v is the same hatch. He pulled it the same way it was dropped in at the factory.Oh Yeah!Comment
-
Sorry to revive an old post, but I am about to do the same job. Can the motor be separated from the direct drive prior to removal, or does it have to come out in one piece?Comment
-
What boat do you have or what drive type do you have? Is it a v-drive or direct drive? Direct drive is where the engine is in the middle of the boat, v-drive it is in the rear.Comment
-
Thank you for the clarification. This is my first inboard! It is a V Drive. 06 20V. I am also shopping for a replacement motor. Once I get it on a trailer, I will probably create my own post in h ope of BoatWakes chiming in to help
Comment
-
To answer your question, yes they can be separated however especially in a v-drive, there often is not enough room to slide the engine forward enough to separate the trans off the engine damper.Comment
-
I am just going to go ahead and keep posting here as this thread has the exact title I would use. Best to keep all info in one place. h20-ski, thank you for your response. Do you know how far forward it needs to go? after removing the sea pump and exhaust tower, there is quite a bit of room in my boat. I will post pictures later. Still need to get it off the lift and on to the trailer.
I have been shopping for a motor. However after taking the heads off and seeing the damage, I think I can get away with just a new block. (Blown head gasket lead to blowing up 2 of the piston heads) After reading a few posts I want to be sure I am replacing it with the exact same thing. I have the Marine Power 5.7 Vortec Says 340 on the breather cover.
I am looking at replacing it with this https://www.ebay.com/itm/25081560090...4&gad_source=1
All input is welcome!
Comment
-
The splines on the transmission are about an 1 1/2". The trouble is going to be lifting and sliding the engine the right amount at the same time. The engine and the trans are not 90 degrees to the floor so you can't just slide the engine forward and then lift. If you are trying to avoid messing with the shaft alignment, I don't see an easy way to pull the engine and not affect the shaft alignment.
That short block would work as long as you don't mind some assembly required. Have you checked the oil and oil filter for metal? If there is then I would suggest cleaning the living day lights out of everything that the oil touches or replacing it for new.Comment
Comment