BOAT DOWN! Please help..

[B-Boy]

Hello. I bought a 2001 2300V Limited last week with about 300 hours, and now I am having issues with the boat.

Problem-The boat does not exceed 5 mph in forward in the water and does not spin the prop in reverse in or out of the water.

I have taken the boat out twice since purchasing the boat. I was surfing with about 1500 lbs of fat sack evenly throughout the boat with a surf wedge on around 10 mph using my perfect pass. The boat was fine and then all of a sudden it wouldn't accelerate past 5 mph. When pressing the throttle past 5mph or about 1000 rpm's the boat seems to loose any forward momentum.

There is no visible damage to the prop or shaft. The engine sounds good. The rpm's go up and down fine. All the gauges read in good parameters. Engine oil, V drive oil and transmission oil all look and smell fine. Almost all original parts on the boat.

I did notice the adjustable mounts on the engine look like they have moved to one side. Not sure if that is relevant.

No warnings, beeps, or grinding. I did hear a some squealing when starting the boat after but it goes away. All the belts look fine.

Also when the boat is on the trailer and the throttle in forward or reverse gear I can spin the propeller by hand. Is that bad?

This is my very first boat so I am a little lost. Any and all help will be welcomed.

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[dgeiler]

Is it easy to spin the prop when on the trailer? You should be able to turn it but it should take a little effort. If you can spin the prop easily by hand when on the trailer, I would guess that your Prop/Shaft Key has been sheared.

[KoolAid]

Good point Super D.

Check to see if the coupler is spinning when you request a direction. That will get us closer to knowing if its a key (on the prop or the coupler) or if there is a v-drive/velvet drive issue.

What does the fluid look like in the velvet drive? What does it look like in the Vdrive?

[gumby]

That is where I would start. Take the prop off... look at the key it might be in 2 halves and it is not suppose to be. If it is in one piece let us know you will have a couple of other things to check before I would say bad pump in the transmission.

[B-Boy]

Thank you for the quick responses.

I have taken the nut and pin off the propeller but left the propeller on. The keyway grove for the key in the propeller and the shaft still line up and I can see the key not to be mangled. Is this good enough or should I buy a prop puller to check thoroughly?

It does take one hand to turn the propeller but I wouldn't say it is really easy to turn. When I turn the propeller either direction the shaft and coupler all turn as they should. I tried to hold the coupler and turn the prop but there was no slipping.

The oil in the transmission was changed 20 hrs ago I was told. It looks a little dark though, but has some color to it. The v-drive looks clear. The oils need to checked at operating temps? I could check with my fake lake?

The oil in my hand is transmission oil and the V-drive oil in the 2nd picture looks like it has some brown specs in it?

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[dgeiler]

Here is a simple drawing of the shaft, prop, and the key/key way we are referencing.
KeyWay.jpg

[KoolAid]

I believe the trans should be atf so it should be red. The walter unit I believe used a 30w gear oil so it should be amber to brown.

[B-Boy]

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It looks like the motor has shifted recently. I say that because it looks like there is dirt marks on the motor mounts where it used to be. Would this hurt anything? The propeller shaft doesn't look bent when I turn it.

[KoolAid]

To answer your question, yes, it looks like it has shifted. Get the prop spinning first, then worry about alignment.

[B-Boy]

I thought the shift of the motor might be an indication as to why the prop was not spinning. Maybe gear misalignment? My buddy thought the gears had worn down and by moving the engine over it gave the gears a little bit more to grab until they went out on me?

The fluid colors look and smell good. I have not checked them at operating temps though so I guess that is the next test?

If the fluids and prop/key are okay, what is my next option? Thanks again for the help!

[Will5150]

Check your linkages as well. you may not be shifting all the way into gear- especially if it won't go in reverse at all. This sounds like the shaft bolts have possibly sheared- especially if the motor has moved- that could mean a very significant prop strike has occurred, but start with the small stuff.

[B-Boy]

Check your linkages as well. you may not be shifting all the way into gear- especially if it won't go in reverse at all. This sounds like the shaft bolts have possibly sheared- especially if the motor has moved- that could mean a very significant prop strike has occurred, but start with the small stuff.

I have removed the shifting cable and shifted the transmission manually while in the water and there was no change. Is this what you're talking about? Also there is no damage to the propeller showing signs of a prop strike?

[freeheel4life]

Sounds like either the pump isnt building enough pressure to push the piston, or fluid is leaking internally past piston, or forward and reverse clutch packs are gone, but it would seem unlikely that you'd lose both clutch packs at the same time.
How is the level of atf in the trans??

[B-Boy]

Sounds like either the pump isnt building enough pressure to push the piston, or fluid is leaking internally past piston, or forward and reverse clutch packs are gone, but it would seem unlikely that you'd lose both clutch packs at the same time.
How is the level of atf in the trans??

What piston are you talking about? A piston in the transmission? Is there a way to check that before pulling it apart?

I have yet to check the oil with the boat warmed up and running. As it sits now it is above the full line. Im going to hook my fake lake to it and check.

[freeheel4life]

Inside of the trans there is a "piston". Fluid pressure pushes on one side of it when the valve is shifted forward and the fluid pressure pushes the piston against the forward clutch pack(stacked friction and wear plates). When the valve is shifted to reverse the fluid pressure acts on the other side of the piston and engages reverse clutch pack.

If the pump isnt making enough pressure(like gumby said) the piston cant push hard enough on the clutch pack and it slips. Would roughly explain why you have a little bit of forward and then it "slips" and no reverse.