2005 22v overheating!

[22vmax]

Attached are two videos, the first being the raw water pump at start up. Please note the fluctuating flow. Is this normal?
The next is exhaust flow which if you look closely has fluctuating flow as well. I have not let the engine run long enough to overheat today but it takes about 10 minutes.
https://youtu.be/Rt8kSwhAia0

[22vmax]

Exhaust flow
https://youtu.be/uLqQ5fExjxQ

[22vmax]

Here is a pic of the tranny cooler.
tranny cooler.jpg

[bait28]

Exhaust flow looks typical with fake lake. Raw pump output looks ok to me (freeheel/Gumby?).

Can you check the hose from the inlet clamshell to vdrive for blockage. Can you also check the vdrive water outlet and hose for blockage.

Maybe have fake lake on hi when you pull hose from vdrive water outlet to see if flows well.

You said My route is, Inlet clamshell-Vdrive-Raw water pump-Tranny cooler-fuel cooler-some sort of reservoir or strainer-Water pump-Manifolds-Exit

I believe there are at least two water routes from the raw water pump 1) through the water Distribution block where the thermostat is located. Here water is circulated through the bypass in the thermostat housing/distribution block to the engine circulation pump 2) through the thermostat and out through the exhaust manifolds.

Seem possible the distribution block/
thermostat housing may be blocked up and not circulating through the motor by going past an open thermostat and exiting the exhaust manifolds.

[22vmax]

Seem possible the distribution block/
thermostat housing may be blocked up and not circulating through the motor by going past an open thermostat and exiting the exhaust manifolds.[/QUOTE]

Bait28, Do you mean the thermostat may be stuck in the open position thereby allowing all of the water to go strait to exhaust without passing through the engine? I didn't know this was possible.

[22vmax]

Also, I believe that my water route goes to the thermostat?distribution block after the "Merc bong" as Freeheel called it. Basically lake water cools everything then goes to engine. I could be mistaken though.

[bait28]

I’m not for certain but seems possible looking at water flow diagram. If you have checked the vdrive water inlet and outlets visually and that outlet flows unobstructed, I would take the thermostat housing off and inspect.

[gumby]

I helped a friend a few years ago with his 04 22v. his would overheat occasionally. just kinda random. I did every thing you have done up to this point. What finely fixed it was a new raw water pump. why? i don't know. There was nothing wrong with his. That I could see. It was brass didn't look warn out. but I had nothing else to change. I did go through every single hose. there was nothing left to try. Still bugs me that I don't know why thats what fixed it. I am Not saying it is whats wrong with yours. but sounding more and more like it. It is a big ticket item. Be sure you have got everything else checked before you just hang that expensive of a part.

[22vmax]

I’m not for certain but seems possible looking at water flow diagram. If you have checked the vdrive water inlet and outlets visually and that outlet flows unobstructed, I would take the thermostat housing off and inspect.

Bait28,
As I mentioned when we spoke earlier today I was running the bengine without a thermostat. After reading you suggestion I ran out and purchased a new Quicksilver to no avail! I installed it and started her up to only encounter only a mist coming from the exhaust. At first I thought maybe it needed to warm up but she never started expelling water. It only took about 7 minutes for it to overheat this time.

[22vmax]

Gumby,
I don't think I have anything left to replace other than the pump.

[bait28]

It looks that way. With the thermostat it put less intro the motor and exhaust manifolds. Man bummer to spend that ona pump but seems like it’s that right thing to try.

[22vmax]

Does anyone have experience with the Sierra casting of this style pump. It's about 50% the cost of factory.

[gumby]

I think the sierra is what he used. would have to call him to conferm

[22vmax]

Well Gumby,
After reading your post I dug into it a little more online and read another post on a Byliner forum that said the factory brass pump can fail in as little as 250 hours. My boat has 285.
I found a Sierra pump at Overtons.com for $152, price matched it at my local West Marine and swapped the pulleys for $10 at my local machine shop. I bolted it up and BAM! the boat stays at a steady 175*! The old pump had scoring from the rotation of the impeller on the bottom, nothing one would think would cause a problem but apparently it was enough to prevent it from flowing enough water.
Now I have a new much smaller problem I found when I put it back in the marina. One of my exhaust elbows has a small leak allowing water to get in the bilge. I'm wondering if any of you have heard of a quick fix for the short of purchasing a new one.

I want to thank everyone for all of the help along the way, I certainly wouldn't have learned what i have about the system without it.

[gumby]

Glad to hear you got her going. I would have hung the part with on hesitation on my own boat, but to tell someone else to is tough (to spend there money).
I have fixed those kind of cracks by grinding them with a tapered bit on a air dermal tool go about an inch past the crack.not to thin juts enough to to get a good flow of JB weld in. Drill a small hole at each end if the crack then repair it with JB weld. Best it do it with the manifold off laying flat. When dry if you need to grind or sand do so. Then paint. I did this to a set I had never had another problem out of them I owned the boat 14 years. Sold it like that. if you do it right you can't tell they have been repaired.