I did end up replacing it. I figured since I had it off I might as well. I’m definitely going to do what you’ve suggested tomorrow. I really appreciate all of you suggestions. Do you think it could be that I need to prime the system?
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Sorry, I've edited my post a bunch so look back. In my experience if it doesnt suck water on the trailer it wont suck water on the lake. Having more draft in the water helps compare to a fake a lake. If you really think that's it dont waste you time next time your drag it to the lake. Leave it on the trailer and back it in. From your description you should have the same problem sitting at the ramp as you are in the driveway. If you have the trailer at the right depth you can push against truck and trailer without going anywhere(though we have big long concrete ramps so I dont stress about "power loading").Last edited by freeheel4life; 08-10-2018, 04:24 AM.Comment
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This may be a stupid question, but are the impellar blades facing the right direction? It may be turning opposite this and not taking up water....Comment
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Like freeheel said test the inlet hose by back flushing water through it to see that it comes out the clamshell. We chased something similar for a customer and ended up replacing the inlet water line from the through hull to the pump, every inch of it. Found the green stripe hose has a tendency to delaminate and collapse in on itself. When replacing it, use the blue stripe hose, should be 1.25"ID. From what you're describing, thats the only thing left.Fixing everyone elses boat just so I can use mine...Comment
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Okay everyone,Originally posted by boatwakes View Post
I replaced the intake hose with the thicker blue stripe hose and replaced the Sierra impeller with a Quicksilver model which is a noticeably harder durometer. As soon as i did this I fired the boat up. It ran dry for about 15-20 seconds and then it started drawing water through the Fake a Lake and out of the exhaust! I then let it run for a bit, took it to the launch, put it in the water and what happens? It overheats after idling for ten minutes. I brought it back to the house hooked it to the Fake a Lake and started it and about ten minutes in the damn thing stopped drawing water and shot up to 200* so I shut it down. HELPComment
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I'm wondering if there were still some impeller pieces in the outlet hose and now they got pushed into the cooler. Look at trans cooler again.Originally posted by 22vmax View Post
Something is certainly amiss. The fact that it quit ducking water is strange, especially since it was moving water before that.
Good luck and dont give up. I'm sure other will chime in with ideas as well. Someone will figure it out.Comment
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Dude this thing is going to run again. Now you just gotta start with simple diagnostic steps and resist the thought that I already checked that.
Re-reading a number of the posts. There are some good steps to start over with or make sure you do.
Freeheel’s suggestion of removing the pressure outlet hose from the raw water pump and starting it on the fake a lake. Try that and let us know what happens. Note how quickly and how mush pressure /volume it ejects (or not).
Also note sure what you found when checking for some impeller pieces that may have got pushed into the cooler. Can you look at trans cooler again. Please send a pic of the trans cooler and include inlet and outlet hoses. Think this is going to require some closer inspection and flushing.Comment
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If you are willing after you recheck the above steps, closely check each connection on the raw water inlet side. That means check the hose clamp clamping the new hose to the brass thru Hull inlet. I’m sure it’s tight but crank down on it good again.
That same hose, follow it to the raw water pump hose clamp. Look for any stress cracks at and around the pump tube that you pushed the hose over. If nothing suspicious, tighten that hose clamp a bit.
That side of the raw water system is critical to verify you have no cracks and that the hoses are tight such that they do not allow any air to invade and destroy the suction vacuum. Make sure you have this verified cold before you move on.Comment
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This is likely close to your cooling system (Freeheel ?).Comment
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Thank you,
My route is, Inlet clamshell-Vdrive-Raw water pump-Tranny cooler-fuel cooler-some sort of reservoir or strainer-Water pump-Manifolds-Exit
Here is a pic of the reservoir, I don't know what it is for. It is located low on the Starboard side.
/Users/josephemminger/Desktop/reservoir.JPGLast edited by 22vmax; 08-11-2018, 03:52 PM.Comment
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Ya, basically the same. He said he has a Merc, but flow is basically the same.Originally posted by bait28 View Post
This is likely close to your cooling system (Freeheel ?).
22vmax
Your pics and vids arent loading. From the sounds of it you have something added. The "reservoir or strainer" after the fuel cooler is a new one to me. Normally is cool fuel and on up to Tstat housing. Check for an blockages in it I guess. Its on the pressure side so it should leak water if its bad.Comment
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Oh, Thats the Merc quick drain(a few of us like to jokingly call it the Merc bong). All block and manifold drains lead to there. Pull the blue plug and almost all the raw water will drain out. They have a tendency to crack and leak water. Are you noticing any water running out of it while running on the fake a lake?? Any water magically appearing in the bilge??Comment
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I do have a little water leaking in but I believe its from this quick connect
block drain connect.jpgComment
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