2000 2300v cracked block

[IWantATige]

Hello everybody. I am not part of the tige family yet but I am going to look at a 2000 2300v after work today. Its priced low because the engine has a cracked block. I just wanted to see if anybody on here could help give me an idea what I’m getting into if I decide to buy it.
What I know so far:
5.7L black Scorpion Mercruiser. He said he forgot to remove one of the engine drain plugs and the crack is above the upper drain plug and below the exhaust.
What are some things I should look for on this boat? Any other pieces that might have also froze and cracked if the engine drain plug was left closed this winter?
Known issues with the 2000 2300v?
If I wanted to pull the motor myself how bad of a job is it?

Really appreciate any advice/feedback anyone could give me.
Thanks


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[lee]

If it is an external only crack, you can grind it and slap some JB Weld on it to get you going. Had a friend do that to a boat he bought at auction 12 years ago and it is still holding together.

[Jetdriver]

^yep. All may not be lost but if you do fix it externally make sure to monitor your fluids when you start running it. You start getting milky oil you’ve got an internal crack and your hosed at that point. New engine or replacement used engine gonna be around 4-7k installed I’d think.
As far as buying it I’d be negotiating the deal as if the engine needs to be replaced so as to get the best deal that you can.
Good luck.

[IWantATige]

Thanks for the advice about the engine... I'm definitely going into it assuming the worst (and bargaining for the worst). Are there any other items I should definitely be concerned about on this year/model?

[Jetdriver]

I know that engine from my previous boat but I’m not sure what would be in the boat as far as transmission and Drive. Checking the fluids in each component can tell you a lot about the condition of them. Tight, hard to turn steering usually means a steering cable needs replaced. Was the boat used in salt water? That crap will eat right through your boat and trailer eventually. Look into the bilge, is it covered in oil and such? That can be a pretty telling sign of leaks. Check all the basics, lights, bilge pump, blower, stereo, etc... check prop condition. Ask about maintenance history, when was the impeller and fluids last changed? Don’t forget the trailer, ask about the bearings in the hubs and the brakes. How do th3 tires look? Trailer rusted out? Thing is about buying a boat with a cracked block is that the owner was obviously not taking care of it the way it needed to be. It could end up being a great deal, it could be beat on. Bring a buddy that knows boats or spend a hundo to have a shop do a pre purchase inspection on it for you.

[boatwakes]

Welcome! The block is done, don't think grinding and filling will fix it, the water passage will also have cracked the cylinder and even though it may run okay for a few minutes, your crankcase will fill with water and turn everything into a chocolate milkshake. We've seen it a bunch so count for the worst. If you purchase the boat, DO NOT BUY AN INTERNET ENGINE OR LONG BLOCK FROM ANYONE BUT A GENUINE MERCRUISER BUILDER OR SERVICE CENTER, ESPECIALLY NOT FIRST MATE MARINE. Bottom line, cheap internet engines are not built using the correct parts, valve guides and machining processes. That engine, being the Scorpion, has a different cam grind than the regular 5.7 and thus is much harder to find. Buying a long block with the wrong cam grind won't run correctly with the current engine ECM. I would suggest having a new long block prepped by a good shop (the bottom ends are just cast pistons, stock rods and crank) but reuse the old cam with new roller lifters and have a valve job done on the existing heads so they're up to Merc specs. Assembly is easy from that point and swap them tit for tat, replacing the steering cable while the engine is out for good measure. We're replacing the entire rudder assembly on a 2000 21V right now that has tight steering underway but is smooth when at rest. The rudder post wore into the housing and binds when the boat is moving. To check for that on this boat, just see if you have any lateral movement (any direction, even vertical) with the rudder when you grab it. There should be none you can feel. The same goes for the prop shaft. If theres movement there, the cutlass bearing will need to be addressed too. Good luck and post any more questions you may have.

[IWantATige]

I know that engine from my previous boat but I’m not sure what would be in the boat as far as transmission and Drive. Checking the fluids in each component can tell you a lot about the condition of them. Tight, hard to turn steering usually means a steering cable needs replaced. Was the boat used in salt water? That crap will eat right through your boat and trailer eventually. Look into the bilge, is it covered in oil and such? That can be a pretty telling sign of leaks. Check all the basics, lights, bilge pump, blower, stereo, etc... check prop condition. Ask about maintenance history, when was the impeller and fluids last changed? Don’t forget the trailer, ask about the bearings in the hubs and the brakes. How do th3 tires look? Trailer rusted out? Thing is about buying a boat with a cracked block is that the owner was obviously not taking care of it the way it needed to be. It could end up being a great deal, it could be beat on. Bring a buddy that knows boats or spend a hundo to have a shop do a pre purchase inspection on it for you.

It has the blue Walter vdrive. Is there any chance that the vdrive or transmission could have froze and busted as well? This might be a stupid question but my thinking is that if either of them are water cooled (I’m not sure if they are) then there is a chance water was still in them as well.

Engine froze because he had a block heater on it and the heater quit working.


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