Subwoofer install

[Samuelp63]

I have a traditional kit. I understand how to hook up everything except accesories. I assume i should have a "main" battery for accessories and a secondary battery for starting.

[chpthril]

i should have a "main" battery for accessories and a secondary battery for starting

This would be a function of the switch, when at anchor, more then a wiring scheme.

[Samuelp63]

This would be a function of the switch, when at anchor, more then a wiring scheme.

Yes sir. I guess that was my question.

Just want to go over simple operation.

battery one is accessories. battery two is starter.

Normal operation would be using "both" until coming to a stop and killing the engine where we would switch to one, switch back to two for start, and to both for normal operation.

Is that right?

[chpthril]

battery one is accessories. battery two is starter.

With your switch, not really the case, especially if both batteries are the same. With both batteries the same, as in the 2 marine deep cells indicated in post #4, then it really wouldnt matter, as long as you are not on BOTH when you anchor.

Cranking and running on BOTH is fine.

With that said, id not go with two deep cycle. Id suggest either a cranking and a deep, two dual-purpose, or two cranking, depending on how the boat will be used. A deep cycle can crank an engine, but its not ideal for that as its primary job.

[Samuelp63]

I was under the impression you should not have mismatched batteries. I currently have a standard car battery in there now. Do you suggest that i add one deep cell for accessories? Will i be save to run BOTH with mismatched batteries?

edit: i stepped outside to see what battery was in the boat currently, 650 cca. Would a 800 deep cell (pair) not be a "better" battery for starting? Not trying to be argumentative, just don't know.

Also, got the sub all hooked up. It's loud. need to clean out my mess tomorrow and tune it.

[chpthril]

Dont mix different type, size or age when wiring them together. Different sides of a multi-battery switch........no problem.

[Samuelp63]

I should rename this thread “please help chpthril”.

Everything is up and running great.

One new issue, trans oil light stays on at all times. Fluid is on the lower side in the v drive but within spec. Trans is fine. Light stays on from when the key is turned to the “on position” running, and in neutral while revving above 1500 rpms.

Any idea?

[Samuelp63]

Disregard. Answered my own question when I reread my post. Put the boat in gear and boom, it’s gone. Dumbass.

[chpthril]

Yep, its a pressure light, goes out once in gear and builds some pressure. Normal to be on at idle.

Just dont run the with trans in gear because the prop shaft strut bushing is not lubed when out of water. It will run dry and hot when out of water.

[Samuelp63]

It’s odd that it’s never done that before.

[Samuelp63]

Fun fact, while cleaning up my mess I found the Rockford fosgate test certificate, amp is rated for 1282 Watts rms. I must be dyslexic. it would be stupid easy to put an additional sub in the passenger locker. I guess I’ll wait until we take it out before adding one.