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Winterizing for real winters

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    #16
    I add antifreeze to my boat as well.
    I do it for the same reason as Tanner.
    (I use regular Preston, and save it at the end of each year for the next.)

    Did you fill your gas tank all the way?

    If so you might run into a small problem in spring.
    What happens with the new boats (MPI engines) is they are vented and when temps start to go up the gas will expand and leak down the side of the boat. This will eat your decals.

    Also I have read that it is a good idea to fill both the trany and V-drive oil to the top.
    This will prevent condensation for forming inside of these units.
    (Remember to remover the extra fluid in the spring, or you will damage the V-drive or trany)
    One last thing. If you have any hours on the engine oil, it a good idea to change the oil.
    (Used oil can damage your crank bearings if sitting for a long time)
    Tige, it's a way of life!

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      #17
      I forgot one thing.
      I have been told that if you store your boat on a trailer, that it is a good idea to put the trailer up on blocks.
      The reason behind this is that trailer tires are different from car and truck tires (no steel belts) and they can develop flat spots after sitting for a very long time with loads on them.

      Yes the flat spots can work them self out after being towed, but this will damage the sidewall and increase the risk of a blowout.

      David
      Tige, it's a way of life!

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        #18
        Originally posted by whitlock87

        Did you fill your gas tank all the way?

        If so you might run into a small problem in spring.
        What happens with the new boats (MPI engines) is they are vented and when temps start to go up the gas will expand and leak down the side of the boat. This will eat your decals.

        That happened to me the first time I winterized my boat. I showed up one day to check on it and had gas all down the sides, transom and the boat cover. The gas peeled off my port side decal.

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          #19
          Originally posted by whitlock87
          I forgot one thing.
          I have been told that if you store your boat on a trailer, that it is a good idea to put the trailer up on blocks.
          The reason behind this is that trailer tires are different from car and truck tires (no steel belts) and they can develop flat spots after sitting for a very long time with loads on them.

          Yes the flat spots can work them self out after being towed, but this will damage the sidewall and increase the risk of a blowout.

          David
          Trailer tires come in both bias-ply and steel-belted. Good advise to put on 'blocks' as both will form flat spots.
          Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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            #20
            Re: Winterizing for real winters

            Originally posted by spankyt
            Guys, I live in Canada and just recently purchased an 04 22V. This is where yes, the temperature goes well below freezing for months at a time.

            I have read most of the discussion about winterizing and have appreciated the tips. I just want to confirm that I have done all I need to and haven't forgotten anything...

            - I washed the boat ( I live on a lake and the bottom had 2 weeks of scale)
            - I fogged the engine
            - I drained the manifolds
            - I drained both sides of the engine block
            - I drained the V-drive
            - I drained the tranny heat exchanger
            - I blew out the heater hoses with compressed air
            - I used the bucket and "fake lake" attachment method to add RV anti- freeze to the system
            - I removed both batteries
            - I oiled the deck
            - I greased the steering cable
            - I drained all water from the bilge
            - I filled the tank and added stabilizer
            Anything critical that I have over looked?
            The tech. at my dealer told me that adding RV anti-freeze isn't that necessary - as Tige's that get shipped up here in winter just come drained without any anti-freeze.
            A couple of questions on the list above:

            First, how do you drain the V-drive? It appears on mine that it runs down hill to the water pump, so if you drain the water pump, doesn't that drain the v-drive?

            Second, do Tige's have a tranny heat exchanger or is it an oil heat exchanger and it appears that on mine (330 hp Merc Black Scorpion) that there is a blue drain plug for this and it is underneath the portside manifold, correct?

            Third, why would you drain everything just to add antifreeze, couldn't you just add antifreeze and wait for the water to turn pink out the exhaust?

            Lastly, is this the best way to grease the cable?
            http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...steering+cable

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