I tow covered especially on long trips. I stand by the Rankin Covers. No scuff marks, no sag in rain, a little bellowing in the front going down the road but not bad. My cover is now three seasons old with no problems. Will never own a different cover ever. http://www.rankincovers.com/
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tige cover / prop repair
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anhaney
I always pull with my cover on. Sugarhouse Covers in Salt Lake City Utah built mine. It holds tight. My friend had a rock pop up and break his windshield on his Malibu. It cost more than the pulling with a cover ever would have to get it replaced.
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Tigé Jedi
- Feb 2004
- 5557
- St. George, Utah
- 2021 Ri237, 2019 25 LSV, 2016+2015 G23, Malibu 247, X45, 2005 24V, 2002 21V
Since I bragged about my ability to change a prop, I got seriously humbled when I just changed props. My spare had been on for about 2 months. Tightened the C-clamp and hammered away - no luck, tried a harmonic puller - no luck, got a bigger hammer and the C- clamp again and got her to come off finally. That was a serious bear and took a good hour. Of course a few strikes missed the mark and my previously perfect spare has some tiny cosmetic dings in it now.
I thought that it wouldn't be bad since the prop wouldn't be on very long to put it on without any bearing grease on the shaft. I immediately bought some and put it on under the prop this time. Don't forget the grease! It will likely make it easier next time.
Here is some good information on prop repair: http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/m...tml?1159471673Last edited by talltigeguy; 09-29-2006, 12:18 AM.Be excellent to one another.
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Great info, thanks ttg.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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anhaney
Prop Change
I have changed my prop four times as I go from High to Low altitude lakes. The props are made from Brass and the shaft stainless steel. This in known as dissimular metals. Disimular metals tend to some how corrode or weld them selves together. The only way to prevent this is to use Anti-Sieze Compound between the two. Just a light film of it between the shaft and prop. My prop slips of and on real easy each time. I also use a torque wrench when tightening it. I set mine to 30ft. LBS. Works great every time.
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Tigé Jedi
- Feb 2004
- 5557
- St. George, Utah
- 2021 Ri237, 2019 25 LSV, 2016+2015 G23, Malibu 247, X45, 2005 24V, 2002 21V
Anti-seize...great idea. Hopefully, I won't be doing that again soon, but if the bearing grease does not do the trick, I will be sure to get that. Have you failed bearing grease before?
I have been putting the prop more snug than 30 foot pounds for sure. Does anyone have any consensus opinion on how snug to put it? Is there an owner's manual for stuff like that?Be excellent to one another.
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This is my first I/B and I have not changed a prop on one, Yet!!!!!! IMO, if the prop has to be pulled of w/ a puller, and the nut is 'backed up' with a cotter pin, than I don't think that the nut would have to be to tight. 30 ftlb's sounds like a good number.
My I/O's all had nylon lock nuts w/ cotter pin, I never tightened mor than snug.
Is the nut on these things SS or Bras? I haven't looked that close.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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anhaney
Brass Nut
The nut on the prop is brass with a SS cotter pin. I never use a nut over. I always replace the nut and pin. It is only two or three dollars for a lot of reasurance.
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Re: Brass Nut
Originally posted by anhaney
The nut on the prop is brass with a SS cotter pin. I never use a nut over. I always replace the nut and pin. It is only two or three dollars for a lot of reasurance.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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