Looks like should be able to remove bolts and lower pylon but not maybe not designed to be lowered or stuck since maybe never been moved since new. wd40 used but didn't help. Friend suggested heat on metal to change diameter but maybe dangerous being too close to engine. Obviously I bought used in 2014. Would like to lower it so boat cover doesn't stick up (had to add patch where it sits so doesn't wear through prematurely). What do you think?
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center pylon on 2000 21v
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I haven't noticed on mine, but feel around under the cup and see if it there is a hole there that the pilon could slide down through. As I recall the cup is welded right to the top of the mount so I would be surprised if they cut a hole in the mount to allow it to drop through. Then even if it does drop through, it tapers down so much that you would need longer bolts to tighten it up so it wouldn't rattle around. Just pull it out.
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Back to same problem as last year. Anyone have problem removing pylon from 2000 21v that pipe wrench and wd40 unable to loosen after bolts removed. Suggestion has been to do blow torch to loosen pylon from apparent corrosion but one response from last year was "insanity." Some mechanics differ. Pylon should be able to be removed and have contacted Tige if they have ideas. Anyone else? Thanks again.
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sleeve pylon sits in has base so can't be lowered. since rack designed to fold, when done, it rests precariously on part of pylon so I have to secure it there so doesn't drop off pylon during winter. attempting to contact manufacturer for suggestions but no response yet. in interim will try something other than wd40. although, if it was never removed prior to my ownership (14 years), corrosion between pylon metal and metal of sleeve, different metals, probably severe. reiterate mechanics suggests heat should loosen it/make it "pop" (I've had success with torch on other metal corrosions but not in close proximity to a gas motor). I could insert flameproof barrier between pylon and motor to control torch flame proximity to motor. any other ideas? if/when tige gets back to me, will update. Thanks. Walt M.
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in this application, PB Blaster is far superior to WD-40. Also, good ole green automotive antifreeze works on rust an corrosion, just may not be as easy to apply in this case.
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three days of pb blaster and 30 minutes each 1000 degree heat gun, still own't budge with big wrench. Haven't been able to contact tige tech for help. originally thought pylon rested on bottom metal but took pic upside down and saw bottom of pylon. So, if ever get loose, should be able to drop down in sleeve. would suggestions be to simply continue spraying and heat gun? can't believe i'm only owner of 17 year old boat with this problem. And, sort of eliminated possibility that pylon not designed to be moved; of course, if could get response from tige, maybe the manufacturer can confirm one way or other and if can be moved, suggest another course of action. thanks. Walt M.
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