2013 Tge Z1 water leak on drive shaft

[bradleybro]

My 2013 Z1 is leaking water from the drive shaft seal. the dealer said that this is a non warranty item and quoted $750 parts and labor. The dealer said I do have the new style seal but it is still a wearing item. it leaks enough that my bilge will run every 15-30 minutes when surfing. I'm wondering what the process is to replaces this seal. I'm comfortable with some pretty advanced mechanical work but i would like to know what Im getting into before taking on the challenge. does the transmission/ v drive need to be completely removed? or is there a less complicated way to remove the drive shaft? once I have it apart what parts do I need to order and where do I get them from. Any help would be appreciated.

'13 z1 shaft.jpg

[IDBoating]

Yikes! Do it yourself. You sound more than competent. You can buy a complete replacement system, or just the component(s). You'll likely need the carbon disk, stainless disk, or (if one has badly scored the other) both. Hint: If only the carbon disk is scored, some makes allow you to flip the disk around so it presents its other machined face to the stainless disk.

You'll have to pull the propshaft, but if you're careful you won't need to realign the engine/transmission. Do a search on how to pull the shaft, and when you do just be careful and take your time.

If it's a PSS brand seal (or you want to switch to them), here is their website. They sell parts and complete kits, and their staff is super helpful.

Take photos and report back!

[SKSailboatshop]

a little trick to pop the hub off.

Unbolt it from the Vdrive/transmission, take the nut off the shaft Then take some longer bolts and a Shorter deep drive socket and place it in between the hub and the flange on the transmission. Tighten the longer bolts up so the socket stays in place and go around and tighten each bolt up until it pops off.


This helped me when i had to replace underwater gear on an 03 22v and i had to do this under the transmission. With the new Tiges the shaft goes through the transmission and makes it sooo much easier(not sure about the 13's though).

[bradleybro]

Thanks guys for the helpful info. I dropped the boat off at the dealer for some other warranty work and asked again about the seal. They kinda changed their tune about seal and still may cover it under warranty. I guess that the seal also leaks to the outside of the boat wile hooked up to a water supply changed the circumstances. I let them know if its not covered then ill do it myself. The mechanic was at the service counter at the time and also gave some helpful info. He said that he removed the prop and pulls the whole shaft in to the boat instead of out. This way you don't have to pull the collar. Ill let you know what happens an post some pics if I have to do it myself. I still have some time here until the water is warm Still pretty chilly here in Minnesota.

[SKSailboatshop]

One of the major benefits of having the shaft go through the vdrive/transmission rather then bolt up under it. The shaft seal really isn't that difficult to replace, and they have pretty good instructions on how to put it together if you end up doing it yourself

[IDBoating]

Before you get too far ahead of this problem: Have you checked the pressure? All such seals require some static pressure to be applied to the carbon+stainless rings. It's often a rubber bellows that you compress while tightening set screws (I can't tell from your photo what style you have). It may be that you simply need to adjust this pressure - new components may not be necessary at all. Check the manufacturer's instructions for adjustment, they're probably available on their website (I know PSS's are listed there).

[SKSailboatshop]

Before you get too far ahead of this problem: Have you checked the pressure? All such seals require some static pressure to be applied to the carbon+stainless rings. It's often a rubber bellows that you compress while tightening set screws (I can't tell from your photo what style you have). It may be that you simply need to adjust this pressure - new components may not be necessary at all. Check the manufacturer's instructions for adjustment, they're probably available on their website (I know PSS's are listed there).

the older style pss, you were supposed to make a mark on the shaft where the two touched, then compress the rubber by 1" and then tighten the set screws in place(remember they are double set screws ).

I'm assuming the new ones are fairly similar it just has the drain on it