Just bought 2009 Z1 having major issues any help is thankful!

[Boatman_FX4]

Hey guys after a long wait I'm finally in the tige family. Everything seemed great when I bought the boat and after one day on the water I figured out all kinds of new stuff. The engine won't idle after it's been running very long. At first start up it was fine unloading and stuff but after burning about half a tank it wants to die and does some after I put it in neutral I barely even got it loaded. The rpms struggle from 100-700 trying to stay running. So that's first issue secondly it started cutting out making a loud tin can noise on the way back. Almost sounded like a Coke can was in my engine and it would rattle every now an again like it was flying around in the bed of your truck. It doesn't sound good at all. Lastly I got it home and the radio won't turn on at all. Lights works and all the switches and the clarion will try to eject a disc when opened but the screen won't power on at all?

Glad to be a tige owner just gotta get over these humps. The boat has the 343 Pcm Excalibur engine. Any help would be great. I have checked the oil and it's good and looked for all the fuses I could. Other than that I'm new to it and don't know where to start. Thanks guys!

[SKSailboatshop]

Whats the history on the boat, has it sat for a long period of time? Do you have any codes showing? Was the boat purchased from a dealer or a private party sale?


The screen not turning on could be a low voltage issue, i would load test the batteries to eliminate that. Does it have a dual battery setup?

Was the rattle while at idle speeds or while moving along in the water at speed?

[007]

So, the tin can noise bothers me. The fact you burned down a half tank of gas and then had issues with idling makes me wonder if you have a bad tank of gas on top of what ever else is going on.

[IDBoating]

First thought on engine issues is fuel system. I'd replace both fuel filters (inline and FCC internal filter), and extract as much fuel from the tank as possible. Replacing the FCC fuel filter will also drain the fuel from the FCC in the process. Then fill with FRESH non-ethanol fuel, add a generous amount of SeaFoam to it, and get the engine running to work all of the old fuel out of the fuel system.

Agree on the batteries, too. I'd probably replace them outright no matter what the previous owner may have said about them. Weak batteries can cause your engine's ECM to have troubles, just eliminate the question.

Need more data on the rattle. I'd dip (get a sample of) your transmission and v-drive fluids, check for metallic particles in them. I'd completely exchange them while in there. It's not hard with a fluid extractor (MityVac 7400, ~$70 online, you'll need it for oil changes anyway).

Basically, I'd do a complete basic service on your drivetrain. All fluids, all filters, all the basic stuff. THEN start diagnosing. Right now you probably don't know where you stand in terms of maintenance. It's YOUR boat now, so get a baseline.

[jbgp1200]

Had a similar issue when I bought mine. No tin can noise but the rest of it was solved with two cans of Sea Foam.


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[UNSTUCK]

Fuel pump about to fail? Runs fine till it gets hot then starts to lose pressure. That would explain all the engine symptoms. Put a fuel pressure gauge on it and see what the pressure is. You can rent a gauge from your local auto parts house.

[IDBoating]

Fuel pump about to fail? Runs fine till it gets hot then starts to lose pressure. That would explain all the engine symptoms.

I'm hoping it's simpler than that - either aged fuel or clogged/corroded fuel filter(s). If it's aged fuel, there may not be enough oomph left in it to sustain high load engine operation. If it's fuel FLOW problems, clogged/corroded filters may permit enough flow to idle but not to run the engine under heavy load. I've seen that numerous times... it's often the cause of "runs great on the trailer but not in the water", because an idling engine with no load consumes requires very little fuel flow. But stick it in the water (which puts load on the prop, even if the boat isn't moving) and the ECU must bump up the injector pulse width to even maintain idle.

After doing what I suggested, if the problem hasn't gone away, your pressure test is the very next thing! But filters are much less expensive than HPFP's and are regular maintenance items that are probably (over)due for service anyway.

[Thegerman618]

Fuel, Air, Spark check all!!!! Need all three to have a good functioning engine.
Air-Clean spark arrestor, check IAC filter, TPS (clean).
Spark-Check the plugs for unusual wear, proper gapping, if you replace 1 replace them all.
Fuel-The experts hit the common issues. Filters, replace fuel, generous amount of seafoam plan on a few tanks of gas to fully cleanse everything.

As for the tin can issue....remove tin can just kidding can you isolate the sound? I had a ringing/tin can noise on mine when I got it, for me it was simple clamp that holds my transcooler that was loose. COULD be just that simple. Sounds like you have little gremlin in there, well help you find him.

[IDBoating]

Fuel, Air, Spark check all!!!! Need all three to have a good functioning engine.

By definition, he has those or his engine wouldn't be starting in the first place. Sounds like he has trouble getting his engine to STAY running, or to generate more than low amounts of power. That's why I think he's dealing with a fuel flow issue, though you're right... it could be an airflow thing instead.

Spark-Check the plugs for unusual wear, proper gapping, if you replace 1 replace them all.

The EX343 engine uses "tipped" plugs, no gapping necessary or possible. Once they erode past spec, they can only be replaced. Agree on replacing as a full set. Beware, they're pricey!

I had a ringing/tin can noise on mine when I got it, for me it was simple clamp that holds my transcooler that was loose.

Agreed on this too. Hopefully it's something going into resonance at certain RPM's that just needs to be tightened down. A $5 mechanic's stethoscope can be unbelievably useful in finding such problems. In my case, a weird sound that made you think the gears were grinding themselves to pieces turned out to be a rough face on the propshaft thruhull that, when it went dry, would set your teeth on edge. Replacing that with the WET version of the thruhull fixed it permanently.

[Bryan]

Could the tin can sound be lifter chatter at certain RPM? Just a thought maybe.. Everybody's definition of "tin sound" could be a little different. Maybe the oil has broken down a little and needs changed.. Regardless, I'd change it..

[NICKYPOO]

The first issue says to me IAC valve. A simple cleaning of it could fix all that if it is the culprit.

The second sounds like a fuel filter.

Third sounds like an old battery.

Lots of good advice in this thread already. I'd just start with the simple stuff first. IAC, fuel filter, battery.

[chpthril]

Rather than just changing the fuel filter, pull the filter with a catch pan under it, then dump all its contents into a large glass jar. Let it settle and see what shakes out.

[JCP]

If it has FAE, the tin can sound could be coming from from there. If you have a misfire, the unburned fuel reignites in the FAE like an expansion chamber. Happened to me with my old boat. Not a cure for his problem, just a side effect of his other issues.

[ChrisSnow]

Is the engine temp OK? Overheating can make an engine run really rough.

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[ktm450exc]

I had the tin can noise. Mine was due to bad spark plugs and the noise is a backfire. I also changed my water fuel sep, spark plug wires and I filled up with high octane gas, marine fuel stabilizer and lucas fuel treatment.