Just bought 2009 Z1 having major issues any help is thankful!

[Boatman_FX4]

Guys thank you sooooo much for all the replies it took me forever to reply I'm sorry. I had the boat into the local Tige dealer here and just got it out today after spending one thousand for repairs. Heres what they did.

-Replaced steering cable
-found bad grounds corroded on wiring harness and fixed them
-found corrosion on the crank position sensor wire and fixed the corrosion somehow without replacing the plug??? idk said that was the fix and that it runs perfect now
-replaced taps gauge
-replaced radio remote
Warranty denied coverage since it was "corrosion" except for radio stuff

Took it out on the water right after i picked it up ran awesome for 20 minutes then started idling rough again rpms bouncing and it dies, wide open and just running 20-30mph it cuts out and backfires which i think is the "tin can noise" is backfiring but idk.

doesn't smoke or anything so idk I'm lost again and not very happy after spending a grand and waiting almost 4 weeks to get it back? Any other ideas? i bought all new plugs but the ones i pulled out look like just replaced, they're oil soaked a little but look like they're firing the guy at the auto store said so idk he said valves could cause oil on them. All wires look good except one has rust color in the the number 2 cylinder one but the plug looks best out of all of them. I don't want to replace them yet oil i talk with dealer tomaro and see what excuses they say. I feel like i got screwed over and they didn't fix anything but the steering issue. What should i do??????
I don't want to spend anymore money i don't feel i should have too but idk i need some opinions i downloaded the app on my cell phone so i should be able to see replies hopefully this time. Thanks guys!

,Kody

[Boatman_FX4]

Fuel pump about to fail? Runs fine till it gets hot then starts to lose pressure. That would explain all the engine symptoms. Put a fuel pressure gauge on it and see what the pressure is. You can rent a gauge from your local auto parts house.

yes runs good tip hot then idk why but all hell breaks loose? To me seems like the cutting out and rough idle is a fuel issue? it will rev up to not die and then idle back down and almost die again then rev up and so on...so maybe a sensor issue too not letting fuel get there? Idk I'm so lost and aggravated it s beautiful boat and runs perfect for a little bit I'm ready to enjoy it.

[Boatman_FX4]

First thought on engine issues is fuel system. I'd replace both fuel filters (inline and FCC internal filter), and extract as much fuel from the tank as possible. Replacing the FCC fuel filter will also drain the fuel from the FCC in the process. Then fill with FRESH non-ethanol fuel, add a generous amount of SeaFoam to it, and get the engine running to work all of the old fuel out of the fuel system.

Agree on the batteries, too. I'd probably replace them outright no matter what the previous owner may have said about them. Weak batteries can cause your engine's ECM to have troubles, just eliminate the question.

Need more data on the rattle. I'd dip (get a sample of) your transmission and v-drive fluids, check for metallic particles in them. I'd completely exchange them while in there. It's not hard with a fluid extractor (MityVac 7400, ~$70 online, you'll need it for oil changes anyway).

Basically, I'd do a complete basic service on your drivetrain. All fluids, all filters, all the basic stuff. THEN start diagnosing. Right now you probably don't know where you stand in terms of maintenance. It's YOUR boat now, so get a baseline.

is there something to tell me how to change the fuel filter and stuff? not familiar with the engine or where everything is? Also where is water fuel separator and how do you do that? Thanks again this is great advice if dealer will work on it again without making me wait another 3 weeks ill have them do everything to it but they said all recommended maint was done whatever that means.....

[Boatman_FX4]

Whats the history on the boat, has it sat for a long period of time? Do you have any codes showing? Was the boat purchased from a dealer or a private party sale?


The screen not turning on could be a low voltage issue, i would load test the batteries to eliminate that. Does it have a dual battery setup?

Was the rattle while at idle speeds or while moving along in the water at speed?

yes has dual batteries dealer said they were good holding a charge and proper voltage but my faith in them has dropped drastically after spending so much to not have it fixed. rattle was while moving along and even at slower speed you can tell its lunging and cutting out a little at all speeds its like a fuel issue or something to me. I don't know the history of the boat it was a private sale so I'm out of luck. The engine is an 11' so it got replaced at some point for some reason :/

[Boatman_FX4]

If it has FAE, the tin can sound could be coming from from there. If you have a misfire, the unburned fuel reignites in the FAE like an expansion chamber. Happened to me with my old boat. Not a cure for his problem, just a side effect of his other issues.

What FAE? Sorry

[Boatman_FX4]

Is the engine temp OK? Overheating can make an engine run really rough.

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i don't have any alarms or anything dealer pulled codes and thought they fixed it with crank position stuff but still just as before. i don't think its overheating don't know how to tell though on gauges?

[Boatman_FX4]

I'm hoping it's simpler than that - either aged fuel or clogged/corroded fuel filter(s). If it's aged fuel, there may not be enough oomph left in it to sustain high load engine operation. If it's fuel FLOW problems, clogged/corroded filters may permit enough flow to idle but not to run the engine under heavy load. I've seen that numerous times... it's often the cause of "runs great on the trailer but not in the water", because an idling engine with no load consumes requires very little fuel flow. But stick it in the water (which puts load on the prop, even if the boat isn't moving) and the ECU must bump up the injector pulse width to even maintain idle.

After doing what I suggested, if the problem hasn't gone away, your pressure test is the very next thing! But filters are much less expensive than HPFP's and are regular maintenance items that are probably (over)due for service anyway.

Man so much good info on here...I think its fuel related but how many filters do i have to change? do they just unscrew? do i need to shut off any valves? what about purging air out afterward? Thanks for the input!!!

[Boatman_FX4]

Fuel, Air, Spark check all!!!! Need all three to have a good functioning engine.
Air-Clean spark arrestor, check IAC filter, TPS (clean).
Spark-Check the plugs for unusual wear, proper gapping, if you replace 1 replace them all.
Fuel-The experts hit the common issues. Filters, replace fuel, generous amount of seafoam plan on a few tanks of gas to fully cleanse everything.

As for the tin can issue....remove tin can just kidding can you isolate the sound? I had a ringing/tin can noise on mine when I got it, for me it was simple clamp that holds my transcooler that was loose. COULD be just that simple. Sounds like you have little gremlin in there, well help you find him.

Where are these components located? Air clean arrestor, IAC filter whats is stand for too? TPS location and stand for>?

And i posted a reply with my results from dealer who said it was fixed and my results of spark plugs i pulled! Thanks for the reply!!!

[Boatman_FX4]

Rather than just changing the fuel filter, pull the filter with a catch pan under it, then dump all its contents into a large glass jar. Let it settle and see what shakes out.

\

Great advice i need to learn how to pull fuel filter and where there located and what to be aware of screwing up and expect? Thank you!!

[ChrisSnow]

i don't have any alarms or anything dealer pulled codes and thought they fixed it with crank position stuff but still just as before. i don't think its overheating don't know how to tell though on gauges?

Look at the temp gauge. Usually sits somewhere in the middle.
I can't remember the exact temp.

I had a really rough idle as it was misfiring. Turned out to be the HVS (distributer cap) it was cross firing.

I would probably go back to the dealer. You paid them to fix it and they didn't...

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[UNSTUCK]

Based on your list of repairs, the $1000 you spent had very little to do with your engine problem. A ground wire going bad can cause a problem at any time, so though it wasnt the problem this time it could easily be the problem next time. So it's good it was "repaired". Who knows on the crank sensor? These sensors need to see every bit of voltage. A tenth of a volt can change what the computer does.

So it still runs great for a while until it warms up, then it starts to run bad? The idle goes up and down? That sounds like the IAC stepper motor going in and out. Remove the air filter, open the throttle all the way and look inside (engine off). Is it clean in there or dirty. If dirty, the IAC motor can be sticking, or at least not running smoothly.

I sure hope the dealer put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Takes 2 seconds to do and check. What was the pressure with a cold engine, and with a hot engine? If they didn't, you can do this your self, easy. Do this and report back. Go rent a pressure gauge kit from your local auto parts store.

I'll sleep easier knowing your fuel pressure.

[IDBoating]

I sure hope the dealer put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Takes 2 seconds to do and check. What was the pressure with a cold engine, and with a hot engine? If they didn't, you can do this your self, easy. Do this and report back. Go rent a pressure gauge kit from your local auto parts store.

Definitely do this. I'm still thinking it's fuel supply related.

Did the dealer run it in the water, or just on the trailer? Trailer tests do not properly evaluate the fuel system. It takes very little fuel to run an unloaded engine on the trailer.

2009 means you should have a PCM engine. Those have a "Fuel Control Cell" (FCC). A low pressure fuel pump brings in fuel from the tank, the FCC has a certain holding capacity, and the high pressure fuel pump (which is inside the FCC) provides fuel to the fuel rail for the injectors by drawing fuel from the FCC's reservoir. So you essentially have two fuel systems, a low pressure one and a high pressure one. Starting from the low pressure side, if it can flow *some* fuel then it may be able to keep up with fuel requirements for on-trailer tests and idling around. But when you are in the water and start demanding more power, the injectors need more fuel... which comes from the FCC... and if the low pressure side cannot keep up with the high pressure side's demands, the higher engine demand will deplete the FCC... the fuel rail pressure will drop... and you'll get exactly the behavior you're seeing. Then you back off, which lets the low pressure side refill the FCC, which lets the high pressure side repressurize the fuel rail again, and the engine "recovers". Lather, rinse, repeat.

Follow UnStuck's advice and get a fuel pressure gauge. Hook it up, get a baseline reading at idle in the water, then leave it hooked up and drive around until the problem occurs again. THEN read the pressure while the problem is occurring. If it drops while the engine is struggling, you know you have a fuel delivery problem and can go from there.

Hope this helps... report back!

[Boatman_FX4]

Based on your list of repairs, the $1000 you spent had very little to do with your engine problem. A ground wire going bad can cause a problem at any time, so though it wasnt the problem this time it could easily be the problem next time. So it's good it was "repaired". Who knows on the crank sensor? These sensors need to see every bit of voltage. A tenth of a volt can change what the computer does.

So it still runs great for a while until it warms up, then it starts to run bad? The idle goes up and down? That sounds like the IAC stepper motor going in and out. Remove the air filter, open the throttle all the way and look inside (engine off). Is it clean in there or dirty. If dirty, the IAC motor can be sticking, or at least not running smoothly.

I sure hope the dealer put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Takes 2 seconds to do and check. What was the pressure with a cold engine, and with a hot engine? If they didn't, you can do this your self, easy. Do this and report back. Go rent a pressure gauge kit from your local auto parts store.

I'll sleep easier knowing your fuel pressure.

I might try this I called he dealer this
Morning and they told me to bring it back but it'll be a couple weeks or more again. . Not what I wanted to hear but mayb I can suggest they hook up to the fuel pressure with gauges and see. They said all fluids were good and regular maint was done. So idk. I'll look in the engine by taking the filter off like you said and see. Where is that sensor the IAC? And what does it mean

[Boatman_FX4]

Awesome advice guys! I will try this for sure if the dealer isn't willing to. They asked to bring it back in so I might do that or I could try this myself this weekend before taking it Monday instead. Great explanation tho! It is a 2011 engine (guess it was replaced or something) PCM 343 Excalibur engine.

[Boatman_FX4]

Definitely do this. I'm still thinking it's fuel supply related.

Did the dealer run it in the water, or just on the trailer? Trailer tests do not properly evaluate the fuel system. It takes very little fuel to run an unloaded engine on the trailer.

2009 means you should have a PCM engine. Those have a "Fuel Control Cell" (FCC). A low pressure fuel pump brings in fuel from the tank, the FCC has a certain holding capacity, and the high pressure fuel pump (which is inside the FCC) provides fuel to the fuel rail for the injectors by drawing fuel from the FCC's reservoir. So you essentially have two fuel systems, a low pressure one and a high pressure one. Starting from the low pressure side, if it can flow *some* fuel then it may be able to keep up with fuel requirements for on-trailer tests and idling around. But when you are in the water and start demanding more power, the injectors need more fuel... which comes from the FCC... and if the low pressure side cannot keep up with the high pressure side's demands, the higher engine demand will deplete the FCC... the fuel rail pressure will drop... and you'll get exactly the behavior you're seeing. Then you back off, which lets the low pressure side refill the FCC, which lets the high pressure side repressurize the fuel rail again, and the engine "recovers". Lather, rinse, repeat.

Follow UnStuck's advice and get a fuel pressure gauge. Hook it up, get a baseline reading at idle in the water, then leave it hooked up and drive around until the problem occurs again. THEN read the pressure while the problem is occurring. If it drops while the engine is struggling, you know you have a fuel delivery problem and can go from there.

Hope this helps... report back!

Also where does the fuel pressure gauges hook up to my fuel system? Anything I should be aware of before I do this?