Transmision fluid leak

[jsz]

I noticed a little bit of ATF pooling in the bilge after a short run the other day. I checked the level after it cooled and it was above the full line. I know with autos it's supposed to be checked warm. Is it the same for boats?

The main reason I'm asking is beacuse I heard a single "clink" noise that I have not noticed before, every time I put the boat in gear, both forward and rev. Not extremely loud but you could definately hear it. The V drive and tranny fluids were both clear and full. Have any of you ever noticed this "clink" in your boat? Is it normal?

My boat is a 2002 with only 280 hours so I hope it's not a sign of something bad starting.

[blondejosh]

How long did you take to check the fluid level??

Often the postion of the tranmission Oil cooler make the oil drain down into the gearbox giving a false full reading. You should run the engine first and then check the gearbox level as quickly as you can after you shut the engine down.


Hope this Helps

Cheers

[jsz]

Thanks. That makes sense. I actually checked it the next morning.
So actually the most acurate reading would be while running right?
Any thoughts on the "clink" noise mentioned earlier?

[jsz]

Well I checked the bilge again today and noticed the same small amount of tranny fluid, about a spoon full. The level is about 1/2" above the full mark when cold. I have not had a chance to check it warm. Have any of you noticed a similar leak?

By the way, when you say to run the motor and then check the tranny fluid, I'm guessing you mean drive and get the tranny fluid warm and then check the level. Right? I believe running the motor alone in my driveway will not change the tranny level.

[chpthril]

Heat from the engine will radiate to the trans and warm the fluid, driving will be a little quicker. Don't run in gear out of water as the strut bearing will be dry.

Fluid expands when it gets hot, if your trans is over full cold, it will be even higher when at operating temp. Your 'leak' could be the result of too much fluid purging out a vent, maybe, don't know if they have one?

[jsz]

I've heard the "expands when warm" theory. Your post makes sense to me. I've also heard that in vehicles, after driving around, the fluid works its way through the trans and the level drops even though it is warm. I'm not sure if a boat trans works the same way though.

The boat is in storage now and I just cleaned the bilge so this might be a good test. In a month I'll check it to see if it has leaked any more. If not I'll run it (motor only) and see if that causes anything.

[jsz]

Well I checked again and noticed the same amount of tranny fluid in the bildge. After starting it I noticed it leaking from the shift linkage (I think that's what it's called) about 1" from the dip stick. It was leaking about an ounce a minute at idle. Have any of you ever seen this?

[David Baker]

I had the same problem on my direct drive trans. I wouldn't have noticed except for small amount of fluid in the bilge water. It turned out to be the shift spool O-ring (just above dip stick). Tige M.D. post helped me figure this out...his prior post copied below

"if you have a small leak and can't find it try this. have someone else steer the boat while you watch the transmission. in gear at idle look around the shift lever, it may take a few minutes, look close because the transmission is black. also check around the output shaft seal, cooler line fittings and look at the bottom of the transmission bellhousing. the leaks we see most are in this order, shift spool o-ring, input shaft seal, output shaft seal, and cooler line fittings."

[jsz]

Thanks David, I just took pics of where the leak is coming from. I'll put them up soon. I hope it's an easy fix.

[David Baker]

I had mine done under warranty but was told it is about a 10 minute repair.

[jsz]

The leak is coming from the bolt that the tranny shifter pivots on. You can barely see the black bolt just above the blue v-drive and to the rights of the dipstick.

[jsz]

Here is another pic. The bolt is just below the rusty shift lever.

[jsz]

**David Baker**

**Tige MD**

**Lee**

Is the shift spool O-ring that you needed to have replaced behind the bolt I'm showing in the 2 pics? If it's a 10 minute job I'm guessing they just unscrew it and put a new O-ring on. Sounds like an easy DIY fix. YES? NO?

At my last monthly run I noticed the fluid did not leak until the motor warmed up. After approx 10 minutes I shut it off and checked the fluid immediately. It was about 1/4" below the full when hot mark. (3/4ths the way up in the acceptable area) It was also clear, pink and smelled normal.

[lee]

Yes the o-ring is behind that bolt BUT you take it out from the other side. Unbolt the linkage from the side in the picture and unbolt from the other side and pull out.

[jsz]

Thanks Lee, I'll give it a try.