Fuel question

[boatwakes]

And also, has timing been checked? Base timing should be set at 10*BTDC with the ignition advance locked out and the rpms at about 1100. Post a picture of your distributor too so I can tell you how to check it.

[Brent1342]

Thanks Boatwakes, I will have that picture for you first thing on Monday.

[Brent1342]

Distributor part number 80522A 1.jpg

Here is a picture of my Distributor. I will give you a real picture tomorrow. This is part number 80522A 1, and my engine serial number is 0F820229. I will check for white and green wire and red stripe wire, Thanks for the help.

[boatwakes]

Mercruiser module part number I stated previously is incorrect. The module for that unit is 811637001 and retails for $208. However, that is a delco est distributor and you need to check the timing first. Here's how to do it:
Start the engine and let it warm up at idle.
Check the initial timing at warm idle and record your findings.
Rev the engine to 3000rpms and check where that timing is and record your findings.
If the module on that distributor is working correctly and your timing is set correctly the timing you shoot at 3000rpms should be no more than 34* and no less than 32*.
If the timing at 3000rpms is less than 32*, loosen the distributor and rotate counter clockwise a few degrees and then recheck the upper range until it is no more than 34*.

NOTE: even though I know the way to lock out the timing and set the base to 10* that does not apply here and in fact should not apply in any timing procedure. I need you to verify the total advance is correct and thus the total timing is correct by using the method I described above.

[Brent1342]

Here you go boatwakes this is a picture of the ignition control module. I am not sure if that picture is the one you were looking for. I ended up timing the boat and it was 16 degrees off. Once the timing was corrected the boat would run fine and then at idle it would shut off. Now I am wondering if the timing was purposely set 16 degrees off so the boat would stay idling, So the person who I bought if from could prove that it would run with no problems. Now I am thinking this could be an IAC valve. I am wondering what you thoughts are? Do you think I should buy a scan tool or just replace the ignition module and IAC. Thanks for the help and sorry that I couldn't get back to you sooner.

[TeamAllen]

Where are you located?

[Brent1342]

I am located in Lancaster CA

[Brent1342]

I am located in Lancaster CA

[Brent1342]

ignition.jpg
Picture of my ignition switch.

[Brent1342]

Ok I might have found the problem. I ended up buying a code reader. The code that came up was 23. This code indicates that there is something wrong with the IAT (Intake Air Temperature Sensor). I am going to replace the part and see if that fixes the issues. I will report back at a later date. Thanks you everybody for the help so far.

[TeamAllen]

Glad you found something. Thanks for the update.

[boatwakes]

Hey Brent, very interesting about the timing. Good thing you checked, your bogging was due to detonation and you could have blown a crown off a piston.