Have reviewed your info on subject but not sure all I need. First time for v drive. Replaced 1990 maristar 240 direct drive that was too simple to winterize/maintain and is for sale. Live in central VA at Lake Anna. Need to confirm location for all drains that need to be opened to get all water out of the motor. Motor is FI so don't have open carb that I can fog like the 4 bbl on the 240. Therefore, do I need to fog the spark plug openings; never had to do for the 240. Assume gas stabilizer while warming the motor then remove the drains. Believe impeller much more maintenance than 10 minutes for 240. Do I drain tranny lines too? Thanks for comments. Walt M.
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Maybe this link will help look at approx. page 61
http://www.tigeowners.com/downloads....engine_manuals
Those engines are actually easier to winterize than the I/O boat you had. Make sure to run a piece of wire or such in each of the drain plug holes to make sure no rust or lake trash blocks holes and the water remains in boat. Give the wire a wiggle in each hole. That engine still should be MPI and still have a throttle body and can put fog oil down it but most MFGs recommend putting in each spark plug hole and manually turning engine. I always sprayed down throttle body on mine and never had an issue. Tranny lines will need drained and the link to manual I sent will help. Should be around 6 plugs total on that engine. I wouldn't install the new impellor until next year as the winter is harsh on them.
Others with this exact model will chime in and can give more specifics, I'm just going off what I did with my direct drive mercruiser mpi engine which is similar to yours. -
I assume our engines are similar (2002 20v) and I've used pipe cleaners to do what JLG suggested in order to ensure water isn't trapped behind a blockage.
Another option (which I do now) is to run antifreeze through the engine during winterization. It's probably a little excessive, but it's easy now that it's part of my annual procedure, it's cheap ($15 for 3 gallons), and puts my mind at ease on those brutally cold winter days when I used to be concerned about whether or not I actually got all the water out of the block.
Just like JLG, I also fog towards the end of the antifreeze process.Comment
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Marinas here at Lake Anna do winterization that includes fluids, filters and antifreeze flush for $300-$400. Right now boat on lift and would have to tow back to lift once winterized and launched. Otherwise, costs $100 extra for marina to do work at my place. First winter for the v drive for me and may decide to have done professionally this time. Don't know if these prices are comparable to yours. Thanks for all the input and may do myself anyway. I have owners manual, too. Plus, I'll tackle impeller next spring.Comment
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I'm probably draining and putting my boat up for the winter tomorrow. I don't change all the fluids for the winter but I do the impeller while winterizing because it gets all the water out. Do you have a heater or shower on your boat? These need special attention. I try to blow them dry then add RV anti freeze to help. I can help some weekend if you haven't done it yet.Comment
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