two wires...???

[nevada_rain]

I bought a Tsunami inline pump to drain my 750 sac and I want to wire it to the drain pump on the factory ballast tank. The problem is that i cannot reach, let alone see, the drain pump. That said, I can see two small wires running down behind the batteries - one brown and the other black. I assume these are to that pump - can anyone verify that? If so, I could splice into them and be finished this project!

The Tsunami pump wires are far too short to reach. Does anyone know the gauge of the factory wires...16? 18? I plan to buy a little automotive wiring to make up the difference.

[chpthril]

Brown is commonly used as a bilge pump wire, so its possible that the brown wire you are looking at is the ballast drain pump as its pretty much a bilge/live well pump. But, the Tige OEM wires going to that pump will not be brown. I would get a 12V test light and check that circuit. Test that wire for B+ first, if its dead, then switch the drain pump on and retest. If the light lights up, bingo.

If you need to extend the wires on your new pump, 14ga automotive primary wire is fine.

If your 2010 has Tige Touch, I would recommend using a relay triggered by the OEM pump to power your new pump. I say this because I do not know how robust that Medallion PC board is that the factory pumps are powered through. Those two pump could be a 12-15 amp load with both running.

[kko]

I think you are right on track. If your seeing the wires behind the battery at floor level thats going to be the wires from the pump (brown and black). You can always turn the pump on and check for power with a test light to confirm. Or you could cut one turn the pump on and if it doesnt run you know you have the right wires. If it still runs thats not them so splice the wire back together and look further. But I think you have found them.

[nevada_rain]

The wires appear to be the same color of the fill pump to that same factory ballast.

How do I install a relay?

The guy at wake makers suggested I put that tsunami pump between the drain on the sac and the fill line on the ballast. If I hook the pump up to the wiring of the ballast drain pump, it should assist the draining of the sac into the ballast. This is assuming that the ballast will fill ok through that pump when it is not on. Does that make sense?

To put my mind at ease, I thought of just seeing if water flowed through that pump easily when it is not on, as obviously I want/need the bottom ballast to fill first in order to support the weight.

Your help is incredibly valuable and much appreciated.

Myron

Brown is commonly used as a bilge pump wire, so its possible that the brown wire you are looking at is the ballast drain pump as its pretty much a bilge/live well pump. But, the Tige OEM wires going to that pump will not be brown. I would get a 12V test light and check that circuit. Test that wire for B+ first, if its dead, then switch the drain pump on and retest. If the light lights up, bingo.

If you need to extend the wires on your new pump, 14ga automotive primary wire is fine.

If your 2010 has Tige Touch, I would recommend using a relay triggered by the OEM pump to power your new pump. I say this because I do not know how robust that Medallion PC board is that the factory pumps are powered through. Those two pump could be a 12-15 amp load with both running.

[chpthril]

Im hot a huge fan of doing the piggy-back sac, so im willing to bet how I would suggest a customer to do it is far different then WM would. At first glance, I do not see the logic of having the piggy-back's drain pump in the fill line. Im wondering if he meant to T is into the hard tanks drain line, Thats what I would do.

Filling into the bottom port of a sac with an aerator pump is SOOOOOOOO slow. The ideal way to fill the new sac is to fill through the top. You could do this by either T'ing off the fill line and running to the top of the sac, or rerouting the fill line to the top of the sac and plugging the vacant port in the tank. Now, regardless of which route you take, you are going to experience passive draining through the fill line if there is not a check-valve in that line between the fill pump and where you T off or the top of the tank. The height of the filled sac will be higher then the fill line, so gravity will allow the water to drain out of the fill plumbing.

Relay: All you need a simple 5 terminal relay.
#85 = OEM drain pump's B+ wire
#86 = Ground
#30 = Battery + post
#87 = To new drain pump's brown B+ wire.

Run the new drain pump's black wire to the same ground as relay terminal #86. If you want, you can tie these together rather then running 2 separate wires to ground.

Dont sweat the hard tank needing to fill first. The weight of the 750 will be spread out across the false floor. The tank is actually unpressurized, so even filled, it will not support any more weight then empty. Fill a storage tub with water and stand on the lid

The wires appear to be the same color of the fill pump to that same factory ballast.

How do I install a relay?

The guy at wake makers suggested I put that tsunami pump between the drain on the sac and the fill line on the ballast. If I hook the pump up to the wiring of the ballast drain pump, it should assist the draining of the sac into the ballast. This is assuming that the ballast will fill ok through that pump when it is not on. Does that make sense?

To put my mind at ease, I thought of just seeing if water flowed through that pump easily when it is not on, as obviously I want/need the bottom ballast to fill first in order to support the weight.

Your help is incredibly valuable and much appreciated.

Myron

[nevada_rain]

Ok...I see how you do the relay. I am filling in through the top fill port on the sac regardless and the factory ballast is supposed to fill first, the water flowing through the sac...you probably knew that.

Right now I will install it just like WM Idicates on their instructions and I will time how long the sac takes to drain via gravity thru the sac. I will worry about installing a sac drain pump if it is way too slow. It probably will be...

[nevada_rain]

Currently on the water and the sac fills but DOES NOT spill into the ballast....very frustrating. I have the bottom drain on the sac attached to the original fill hose that has never been removed from the ballast. I gently pulled the clip off the drain on the sac and water spills out, so I know it is not plugged.

If I run the drain pump, no water comes out the side of the boat...and the sac remains half full, so I know the water is not getting to the ballast.

I know it is venting...hmmmm

Suggestions...

[chpthril]

Currently on the water and the sac fills but DOES NOT spill into the ballast....very frustrating. I have the bottom drain on the sac attached to the original fill hose that has never been removed from the ballast. I gently pulled the clip off the drain on the sac and water spills out, so I know it is not plugged.

If I run the drain pump, no water comes out the side of the boat...and the sac remains half full, so I know the water is not getting to the ballast.

I know it is venting...hmmmm

Suggestions...

Ok, so the factory fill line is now going to the top of the sac, right? How is the new sac plumbed to the factory tank? Did you T the bottom sac port into the factory drain plumbing? This is how the water flows through the sac from the fill line and gravity drains into the tank.

Call me if you want, its probably easier to describe over the phone.
704-six one six-4 seven for 9

[nevada_rain]

Thank God...I will call tomorrow.

myron