Steering Cable

[Nobody]

Yes - above the tank. That's how it was already routed from the factory, and I just went the same. It came up through the floor from a little hole just forward of the separation wall that normally holds the subwoofer (the hole was next to the bow walkthrough wall), then it went across the compartment to the starboard side, turning through an access area and making the 180-degree bend to connect with the steering column. Does that make sense?

And, yes, I used the Extreme. Love it so far - smoother and easier steering than when it was new, in my opinion.

Yes, that makes perfect sense since I already replace one 2 years ago. Mine is acceptable right now, but I love the feel of complete effortless steering. Dom already grounded the steering back when I bought the boat. I appreciate your help on this a lot. Thanks Ding.

[ChrisBarnes05-12-84]

I know n my 2008 20v after 2 years the cable got stiff and needed replaced. When I took it back to where I bought it they mentioned an electrolysis problem they attached a ground cable to the steering cable and grounded it to the engine and I have never had the problem again. You could give it a try with your new cable.

[Greg Mallek]

Just replaced mine in my 24V. You can see some good tips in the "How To" section.

[IDBoating]

There have been some comments regarding the importance of proper grounding on steering cables, and its effect on longevity. I originally presumed this was mostly an issue in salt/brackish water but apparently there is enough electrolysis with fresh water too. Might want to make certain things are grounded properly when doing the install. Just a thought.

[Greg Mallek]

Tell me more about the electrolysis issue. Mine accually sparked when I was cutting out the old one. Looks like I need a grounding cable (?) How and where would it attach? Any pictures out there?
Thanks

[IDBoating]

Tell me more about the electrolysis issue. Mine accually sparked when I was cutting out the old one. Looks like I need a grounding cable (?) How and where would it attach? Any pictures out there?
Thanks

Sparked? Normally electrolysis involves a very small voltage potential. Sparking requires a lot of potential difference.

In any case, the bracket to which the cable mounts back by the rudder should have a ground lead running to it. Here's a photo of mine:



You should have a similar setup, with wires connecting essentially everything metal to each other (including engine, rudder, steering, etc.). The idea is to prevent voltage potential differences. No voltage = no current flow = no electrolysis. One of the few times in life you intentionally want a short-circuit!

Does your boat have something like the above happening around the steering cable/bracket assembly?

[Greg Mallek]

Is that the guide tube im seeing?

[Ewok]

WABoating, I think Fortes added those grounding wires to your rudder assembly, mine did not come like that.

[Nobody]

WABoating, I think Fortes added those grounding wires to your rudder assembly, mine did not come like that.

Fortes did mine that way. Those guys know everything.

[IDBoating]

Could be. I'll ask. They're coastal, so electrolysis is a much bigger deal for them and most of their customers than for me with my inland fresh water. Glad to have the wires, though!

[Nobody]

Nobody - unless the cable on your '08 is routed differently than my '09, you will want a 21-ft cable for an RZ4. I just replaced mine, and Andrew called Tige to verify the length since my marking were illegible. Unfortunately, they told him 19-ft, but there was absolutely no way that it could work following the factory routing. Got a 21-footer, and it worked perfectly. Measured the old one once I had cut and removed it. And it was 21-ft from the factory.

It's time!
Thanks Ding!!

[SPBFAN]

You definatley want a 21 foot cable.

[Nobody]

You definatley want a 21 foot cable.

Thanks Andrew. You da man!!

[Ewok]

My RZ2 also had a 21' cable installed from the factory, I replaced it with a 21' teleflex extreme cable, night and day difference.