Fuel Pump replacement / 2000 21v

[BIG RON]

Looking for a little help on this guys.
I recently picked up this 2000 21v w/Merc.350 Mag. which ran fine when I test drove it. Now I am having fuel supply issues to the engine...Like none, nada, non-existent.This all started after I did a bilge and engine bay clean out after I brought it home from where I bought it.I hosed out all the pet hair, leaves, slime, and bilge spooge and sucked out the residual debris with a shop vac.(some people have no respect for their investment)...but the hosing out shouldn't have caused the fuel pump to malfunction should it? Getting things wet on an engine should be a pretty common occurrence on this boat...right?
Has anyone ever had to replace a fuel pump on the Mercrusier 350 Mag in a Tige V-drive?
It is tucked down on the back side of the engine with a protective plastic cover over it. It seems virtually impossible to remove the plastic cover alone without breaking it let alone the fuel pump.I am in the process of testing the pump before I decide to replace it. Any type of advice would be appreciated.
Thanks

[OldeBoy]

Does the pump run momentarily when you turn the key? Is it getting power? Is it possible a connection was knocked loose?
If it does run what kind of pressure are you getting at the fuel rail? Fuel rail Schrader valve on starboard side of engine.

[boatwakes]

Get a fuel pressure test gauge (auto parts store) that reads above 35psi. When you turn the key on, the fuel pump should run for 1 second and then stop. The fuel pressure should be between 28-32psi at this point and maintatin on the gauge (engine NOT running, fuel pump NOT running) for at least one minute. If the fuel pump never comes on, there's a relay for it that may be having trouble but the most likely candidate is the fuel pump relay fuse (15 amp) that's inline before the relay.
If the relay and fuse check out, disconnect the waterproof wire harness at the fuel pump and test for voltage there as well (first second the key is turned on). If voltage is present and the pump still isn't running, it needs to be replaced. BTW, you do not want to have to replace this pump... remove plastic cover, remove vacuum line to pressure regulator, remove fuel line coming in and both (2) going out, remove water hoses going in and out, use a 9/16" and remove the two retaining nuts on the engine mount (they only hold the pump on) and then remove unit.... ha ha. It is not easy and once it's removed you might as well replace: fuel pressure regulator and fitting ( fittting tends to break if you try and remove it) and fuel cooler assembly. Good luck! Keep us posted.

[BIG RON]

Thanks for all the input on this issue guys. I went through the process of checking the power to the pump and ...Yes there was power to the pump. Next I supplied power to the pump with a 12 volt power supply and all it did was make a slight noise like it was trying to work. So I determined that the pump was not working and decided to replace it. Prices varied on the internet from $334-$450. I found the fuel pump/cooler at a local marina and worked out a deal with them for $350($372)with tx. I returned to my garage and reassembled the unit which comes in 2 pieces with a bag of o-rings and the necessary fittings.I had the new unit back in place and secured in about an hour and a half. I kept my fingers crossed when I turned the key listening for the fuel pump to cycle on and...BAMM !!...there it was. The buzz of the fuel pump as the ignition was turned on. I primed the throttle body with some fresh gas and turned the engine over and it fired right up. Awesome...I was back in business.
The biggest problem I ran into here is that the "Cool Fuel" fuel pump/cooler is tucked way down under the motor and is hard to access. I am 6'-215lbs and I found myself lying on the floor of the engine compartment with my legs stretched out up under the seating area.Once I knew what tools to bring with me I stayed there until I had the unit out. By that time my left leg was going numb but I got it out.Getting the cooling line hoses off the pump unit was the toughest part since they were original and had to be pried off with long flat head screw drivers.It seem as though the factory may use some sort of adhesive to secure those rubber hoses at the factory.I did have to replace one of the hoses due to damage in the removal process.The reinstall went much quicker as to be expected.
All in all the entire process cost me about $405 in parts(fuel pump/cooler kit, 1- cooling hose) not in including my labor of course. There is also another benefit attained from doing this repair myself other than saving some green...and that is... now I have an intimate relationship and more knowledge of my Tige's engine, the floor of the engine compartment and the bilge area of my boat, since I was down there I did do some upclose and personal cleaning of the bilge area...why not? And of course the satisfaction of completing this project with only the input of people on this forum and a couple of calls to Tige boat dealers service people.
Thanks to you all.

[OldeBoy]

Did you end up having to remove any portion of the exhaust?

I may need to do this next year or 2013.

[BIG RON]

No not at all. When I removed the 2-9/16" nuts from the bracket the fuel/pump cooler was attached to the block with the unit was some what easy to remove once I got the cooling hoses off.