EFI / No fuel getting to engine?

[BIG RON]

I recently had a problem occur where when I was launching my boat after a routine maintenance and clean up at my garage.When I backed in to launch,I started the boat ,it ran for about 10 sec. and stalled. When I tried to restart it all I got was...click, click, click although the battery was fully charged...I put the jumpers on the battery and it turned over quickly but would not start. After several attempts it still would not start. I pulled the boat out to work on it at home. Come to find out it was not getting any gas. The EFI was not powering on when the key was turned. I was getting the "BEEP" from under the dash but the EFI "BUZZ" was not happening.Typically when the key is turned you get the buzz from the EFI on the motor. No buzz and no gas. The motor would start when supplying gas to the throttle body with a squirt bottle.
Does anyone have any thoughts as to why this may be happening or any thing that I could check. I did do some hosing out of the bilge and engine compartment to remove some dirt and build up? Is there something that could have gotten wet that could cause this? It's a boat thins get wet and they should still run...right? All the electronics in the boat work...just the EFI is down. It is a 2000 21v Limited with the Mercruiser 350 Mag. Any help would be appreciated.A trip to a marina for repair is not what I had planned at the end of the season.

[R&T Babich]

.... The EFI was not powering on when the key was turned. I was getting the "BEEP" from under the dash but the EFI "BUZZ" was not happening.Typically when the key is turned you get the buzz from the EFI on the motor. ...

Make sure you are getting power to the fuel pump.
There is a relay that gets triggered when the ignition switch is turned on.

[BIG RON]

Hey R&T,

I checked every fuse in the boat that I could find and all are good. When the key is turned on the 2 relays on the top of the engine do click. I am assuming that they are the 2 relays in question.(13,14 in diagram)The 3 fuses located near by are all good(2-15amp, 1-10 amp)So at this point can I assume that the fuel pump is malfunctioning? I traced the fuel supply line back to where I think the fuel pump is located, but there is a plastic cover over the area tucked in so tight on the LFT side looking back, that I cannot remove it to check it out.Like I said before the fuel pump is not powering up with that typical buzzing sound.
The boat ran fine prior to me hosing out the bilge and surrounding areas...but I cannot believe that the fuel pump would not work because it got wet.But because the motor runs when I supply the fuel, it must be that the fuel pump is not supplying the fuel...what else could it be?

[R&T Babich]

The next thing I would try to do is get to the fuel pump connector.
I haven't had to do that on ours, but it doesn't look easy.
If the pump is bad you'll need to get to it anyway.
Check to see if 12 volts is getting to the pump connector and that the ground lead is not loose.
The drawing shows a ground lead, but I don't know where it goes.
Once you get to the connector you can hot wire 12v into it to see if the pump works.
You want to make sure the pump is bad.
I think the one you need is an 861156A03 and it is $300.

Here is a pic of the relays, fuses and a fuel pressure gauge added to the fuel rail.

[BIG RON]

Thanks...I have found the connector tucked down by the fuel pump. The pump is tucked down under the starboard side of the engine. (left side looking back)It is tucked in there so tightly it looks like you would have to pull the motor to swap it out.I hope that is not the case.
Thanks for the advise...I will try to see if I am getting power to the pump or try to hot wire the fuel pump to see if it kicks in.Thanks for the pic...that's the one.

[BIG RON]

Thanks for the input R&T. Mission accomplished.Up and running(boarding) again.

[BIG RON]

One other thing Babich, the correct part # that should be used or rec commended is 861156A02 because it has the blue pet **** drain valve on it and the 861156A03 does not. Just an FYI.
Thanks again.

[R&T Babich]

One other thing Babich, the correct part # that should be used or reccommended is 861156A02 because it has the blue pet **** drain valve on it and the 861156A03 does not. Just an FYI.
Thanks again.

I'll have to note that in my parts list.
I removed all the blue drain valves since I don't have to worry about freezing so that is probably why I have that part no. in my list.
One of my factory installed blue valves was missing the O-ring and had a small leak and another wouldn't work.
I would change those valves out after a number of years as they will get brittle from the engine heat.