Unwrapped the new 24Ve, have some questions...

[chpthril]

LOL, i just beat you to it

Yeah, I know! I started the typing my replay 10 mins earlier but had to stop to feed the "Bumpus Hounds" cause the wife is painting the spare room. I also had to open, poor, then recap the jug of paint

[Ewok]

Just one more thing...

When you want to monitor the engine temperature, it is not on the MAIN display screen, it is on the TIME display screen. To get to the TIME display screen first ensure the cruise control accessory switch is OFF. Then tap the center of the Tige/Speed Set control pad to access the display screen selection menu. Use the up/down arrows to navigate to the TIME screen and select it by tapping the center of the control pad. The engine temperature will be in a box on the upper right side of the display. The TIME display will not be set to the correct time if you turn off the BUSS using the switches under the helm. To adjust the correct time you will need to use the control pad to navigate to the Settings Menu, select time and use the arrows to set the current time, I usually don't.

Have fun playing with it!

[Ewok]

If this is an unwrapping thread, where are the PICS? You'll get many more props with pics

[dingleberry]

If this is an unwrapping thread, where are the PICS? You'll get many more props with pics

How about pics of props?

[jbort]

ooooooooo nice props

[IDBoating]

Ok, WABoating, the battery switch ONLY disconnects the starting battery. If you want to disconnect everything else like I do, you will have to reach under the dash and turn both of the bus switches OFF. This weekend in fact I am about to add another Perko battery disconnect switch for my house battery so I won't have to reach under the dash. I am going to mount it right next to the factory switch in the aft port locker.

I had already reached the same conclusion, and plan to do the same thing. I considered rewiring things using the existing switch but adding another battery switch is much more straightforward.

To open up the floor you are going to need to remove the rear bench seat cushion. I have not done it on my boat but there are threads on here about how to do it.

It's so complicated that it needs a thread to describe it?!? I'll search around. I don't need to do that for another weekend or two.

It can get frustrating but I went through this in July so I can definitely sympathize.

I'm not frustrated, just learning. It's actually fun, except for learning about PCM's (so far) poor customer service. I'm sure I will have more questions though, and I'll post them here so as not to monopolize your time unless I really get stuck.

Thanks!

[IDBoating]

If this is an unwrapping thread, where are the PICS? You'll get many more props with pics

I'm keeping the photos in the other thread, so they're all together. I'll be posting another one tonight.

[chpthril]

I had already reached the same conclusion, and plan to do the same thing. I considered rewiring things using the existing switch but adding another battery switch is much more straightforward.



It's so complicated that it needs a thread to describe it?!? I'll search around. I don't need to do that for another weekend or two.



I'm not frustrated, just learning. It's actually fun, except for learning about PCM's (so far) poor customer service. I'm sure I will have more questions though, and I'll post them here so as not to monopolize your time unless I really get stuck.

Thanks!

Pulling floor sounds harder then it is, but once you locate the screws, you can have the seat box out in couple of minutes and then the floor panel pulls right up. it's much easier to pull the floor for service, then it is to try and do something down there with the floor in place.

[IDBoating]

Two more on-water questions...

1) I tried a few full throttle starts today. When I go WOT from a dead stop, I get a pretty strong shudder/vibration for a while until the boat is underway. The whole boat is shaking; you can feel it through the entire hull/deck. Is this what cavitation feels like on an open prop boat? I don't feel it except at or near WOT from a standing start.

2) The engine specs say WOT RPM's should be 5000. My WOT RPM's are 4700 (which yields 40 MPH on the dot). This is with the stock 537(?) Acme prop. Generally this means a prop change is in order, but we're planning to install a ballast system for wakesurfing. However, wakesurfing is done at much slower speeds. Should I be concerned today about WOT RPM's?

[laserfish]

You will spend 98% of your time between 11 and 24 mph. That is where you want your power band to be. If you were only skiing at 36, you would want to re prop. This way when you have it all weighted down with ballast and people, it will actually get out of the hole. Back in 99 and 2000, when all this was new, they put ski pitch props on the boats. When we weighted ours down, it couldn't get out of its own way. Changed the prop and WOW, what a difference. I didn't care how fast I could go, just how fast I could get my boarder to the correct speed. You definately have the right prop for the job. Congrats on the new boat, you will love it.

[IDBoating]

You definately have the right prop for the job. Congrats on the new boat, you will love it.

That's interesting, since several people have said they dumped their stock 537 props for the 1235 and it improved their wakesurfing and wakeboarding performance. I'm so confused.

[ragboy]

When we went to 1000lbs in the corner to wakesurf, the 537 was not adequate. There was a lot of cavitation. The 1235 solved the problem, and I only lost 1mph on the top end. I almost never take the boat over 30 anyway.