24V Won't run

[SPBFAN]

Just read this whole thread. It is real easy to see if your fuel pump is on the edge of going out, and two if it is dead. Hook up a low amp probe to a scope and see what your pump is doing. You can see if the pump has a dead brush or contact in side it or more than one.

As for the 4a, 4b, and so on this is because a ground is bad in most cases and this is not a fail code for the ECM this would be injector 4 the letter indicates the bank. Scan tools do not classify information that way.

Through the ECM the grounds are applied. You will need to check pin #'s on connector J1 at the ECM, all the wires should be black. Make sure they are all going to ground and you have no more than .00001 ohms of resistance in those wires. You will have to have a decent volt/ohm meter to measure this. If they all test out OK then the grounds to the ECM are good and the most likely cause to this failure code is the ECM.

However, you need to have caustion in replacing the ECM. If not it may run fine with a new ECM but the question is how long. What caused the ECM to short out is the next question. Yes sometimes ECM's just by chance quit.

Or is their a problem with an injector that has to much resistance and shorted out the ECM because the driver in inside the ECM was over worked? So a new ECM may be a band aid or the repair.

You really need to check all these related systems to make sure they are with in spec also. Or you may end up destroying another ECM.

The Pink wire going into the injectors should be putting out 12V or right close to that. What it really sounds to me like, is that their is an injector in the system that is faulty. Shorted to Ground allowing the amperage to increase, which then burned out the B side injector bank of drivers. Each injector needs to be check and again the grounds for those injectors. The ohms of the injectors should be 11-14 ohms resistance at a temperature of 50-95 degrees. Their is other systems that need to be checked also but you need to start with the above one first.

[strohlde]

I'm a bit worried about that as well, that something else is the root cause and the MEFI was just a casualty. Once I get it back I'll start looking at the injectors closer and see if I can track down a root cause. Don't really want to fry another MEFI.

Also... I've got no idea how long the gas has been in there. When we got the boat back in July it only took about 5 gallons to top it off. The mechanic said the stuff is almost orange in color. Should I try and siphon it all out of there? Or just dump a bunch of seafoam in there and run it through?

Thanks for all the info.

[Iwndr]

Strohlde,
You just bought the boat in July?
How long was your test drive?
And how did it perform during the test drive?
Have you refilled the tank since you put in that five gallons you just mentioned?
If your gas in the tank is orange I would recommend getting it swapped out with fresh gas for starters and then start troubleshooting the fuel system. Change your fuel filters and separator also

[strohlde]

I won't say much to that other than we keep telling ourselves to stop buying anything that costs more than $5k on ebay.

So...didn't test drive it. Took them on their word that it ran well. Obviously not. There was potential recourse through ebay... and he did give us some $$ back. The boat only has 100 hours on it so we figured it couldn't be anything too significant. So we kept it and proceeded.

We've not run it other than for diagnostic purposes...so same gas.

To date:
Replaced Dist Cap and rotor
Replaced Alternator
Replaced Plugs
Replaced cranking battery
Replaced Throttle body ($80 more than the IAC alone which is what was bad)
Replaced Fuel Pump
Replaced EFI
Changed all fluids (aside from gas)

It's no longer throwing any codes...so... hopefully it's good now aside from the gas. I'm probably picking it up tomorrow at which point I'll siphon as much gas as I can out of it and fill it with some fresh gas and see how it runs. Fortunately it's still close to 100 in Austin and we got 15 inches of rain the other day..so the lake still has plenty of water for now.

-Doug

[Iwndr]

I won't say much to that other than we keep telling ourselves to stop buying anything that costs more than $5k on ebay.

So...didn't test drive it. Took them on their word that it ran well. Obviously not. There was potential recourse through ebay... and he did give us some $$ back. The boat only has 100 hours on it so we figured it couldn't be anything too significant. So we kept it and proceeded.

We've not run it other than for diagnostic purposes...so same gas.

To date:
Replaced Dist Cap and rotor
Replaced Alternator
Replaced Plugs
Replaced cranking battery
Replaced Throttle body ($80 more than the IAC alone which is what was bad)
Replaced Fuel Pump
Replaced EFI
Changed all fluids (aside from gas)

It's no longer throwing any codes...so... hopefully it's good now aside from the gas. I'm probably picking it up tomorrow at which point I'll siphon as much gas as I can out of it and fill it with some fresh gas and see how it runs. Fortunately it's still close to 100 in Austin and we got 15 inches of rain the other day..so the lake still has plenty of water for now.

-Doug

I bought my Z1 this spring on the internet with no test drive, 2008 brand new with two hrs on it. It started up fine on fake a lake and then after about 5 minutes it started sputtering and back firing and shutting down.
it had about a half tank in it so I put in fresh gas and some fuel treatment. Got it fired up on fake a lake again after multiple attempts, that translates to about a hrs worth of trying. letting the starter cool off and such....
All the while with the wife looking out the window at me, (did I mention she was not happy with me for buying a boat sight unseen on the internet)
after I got it fired up I ran it on the Fake a lake for about a hour, refilled what little gas I burned and headed to the lake, it started right up but after we left the dock and tried to work it a bit back came the sputtering. It never died but I was working the throttle for about a 1/2 hr to keep it running. (wife was not too proud of me here either)
after that she took off like nothing ever happened and it has been fine since no issues and we love the boat. (even the Wife)
So anyway from what you are saying I am guessing you have some bad gas man. change it out and Good Luck
Change the filters also

[robert theisen]

this new ethanol gas is no good after a month or two if your boat will sit idle for that period or longer add the blue marine stabil and make sure to top off fuel and run mix with stabil thru injectors.

[strohlde]

It works Siphoning the gas out of this thing is a PITA. Got about 20 gallons out. Dumped in a bottle of sta-bil and topped it off with fresh gas. Started right up, nearly stalled a couple times at idle but then I drove it for about 2.5 hours at 20 - 30 mph. Just drove it. Ran great. When we went back in to put it on the trailer it seemed to be just fine at idle. So hopefully we're good to go. Gonna run it for a few more hours tomorrow.

[Iwndr]

It works Siphoning the gas out of this thing is a PITA. Got about 20 gallons out. Dumped in a bottle of sta-bil and topped it off with fresh gas. Started right up, nearly stalled a couple times at idle but then I drove it for about 2.5 hours at 20 - 30 mph. Just drove it. Ran great. When we went back in to put it on the trailer it seemed to be just fine at idle. So hopefully we're good to go. Gonna run it for a few more hours tomorrow.

Enjoy

[dherbert]

Don't know if you ever solved your problem, but I had a similar problem with another boat I had. Replaced fuel pump - still had pressure for a few seconds then dropped off. Turned out to be a bad electrical connection on the oil pressure sensor - it's a safety feature that shuts off the fuel pump if the oil pressure is low. Might check that - it took me two months to figure it out and was a $0.65 fix, versus the $200 for the fuel pump!