24V Won't run

[chpthril]

Before replacing the regulator (I doubt that's the cause of the high fuel pressure) I would look for a kinked or collapsed fuel return line.

A closed or seated regulator, such as when the engine is off with key on and fuel pump is running, or when there is no vacuum to the regulator, puts the pump at max PSI. This max PSI is only about 12-15 PSI above the normal operating PSI. 100 PSI sounds like a "dead-head" reading that one would get if you were to pinch off the return line. So, in theory, a stuck regulator would give you the closed or seated PSI reading. Do you have a car that you could test the fuel pressure gauge on? A bad gauge could also be at fault here and since you just bought it........

[jsz]

My boats volt gauge always run 1 to 1.5 volts below what my volt meter reads.

I recently had starting problems(usually when the motor was hot)and the mechanic said my fuel pressure was perfect. It gave me the same problems the next time out so I put in a new fuel pump. So far it works fine.

[strohlde]

Mike,

I did swap the FPR, but put the old one back on after the engine wouldn't start with the new one (apparently wrong part...finding Marine Power parts is a PITA). Anyhow... now it starts and runs for about 60 seconds, the pressure gauge now reads right at 50...so a bit low...but not pegged at 100 anymore. So I'm not quite sure what's up with that as I did check the lines and other than pulling out the FPR and putting it back in I didn't do anything. I get no pressure when I turn the key on, I can hear the pump running but see no pressure until I actually start the engine. Also I think I need to check my wires on my alt, as I was only reading 12.5V when running (should it be higher?)

Anyone one in Austin a Marine Power expert and like brisket and beer?

[chpthril]

Mike,

I did swap the FPR, but put the old one back on after the engine wouldn't start with the new one (apparently wrong part...finding Marine Power parts is a PITA). Anyhow... now it starts and runs for about 60 seconds, the pressure gauge now reads right at 50...so a bit low...but not pegged at 100 anymore. So I'm not quite sure what's up with that as I did check the lines and other than pulling out the FPR and putting it back in I didn't do anything. I get no pressure when I turn the key on, I can hear the pump running but see no pressure until I actually start the engine. Also I think I need to check my wires on my alt, as I was only reading 12.5V when running (should it be higher?)

Anyone one in Austin a Marine Power expert and like brisket and beer?

I'll work for beef and brew, but the travel expenses will get you

Was that the volt gauge or a volt meter that gave you the 12.5V. That reading seems like it's about right for the static voltage level of a new battery. The static voltage reading means the battery is at rest = engine off and no loads. If the static voltage is about the same as the engine running, then that's a pretty good indicator that the alt is not charging.

I need to go back and chew on what your original complaints are, but right now, it seems like you have a few mowkanik induced issues. You need to get the engine back to where is was before it was "fixed" then the original root problem can be traced down and isolated.

[strohlde]

Just ran out to check again (using volt meter), the gauge runs up to about 13 when I turn the key on...and then slowly drops from there. Fully charged the battery was reading a bit over 13v...started it up...checked...dropped down to about 12.8 where it stayed until the engine died. So looks like the "new" alt...don't work. Guess I'll pull it back off of there and take it into somebody to test it for reals.

[Tanner]

Was the alternator you put in a brand new one or a reman?

[strohlde]

Was the alternator you put in a brand new one or a reman?

New from marineenginedepot.com, only place I could seem to find a replacement for the marine power engine.

Alt

[strohlde]

As far as codes... the dealer didn't really specify and the receipt they gave me is useless... but I think it said something about cam signal voltage? But in looking at the parts diagram I've got a crankshaft position sensor, but no camshaft sensor mentioned. Would this cause the ECM to kill the engine? But also...that was being thrown prior to the "fix" when the engine would keep running, just in limp mode. So not sure if that'd be causing the engine dying now.

[SPBFAN]

As far as codes... the dealer didn't really specify and the receipt they gave me is useless... but I think it said something about cam signal voltage? But in looking at the parts diagram I've got a crankshaft position sensor, but no camshaft sensor mentioned. Would this cause the ECM to kill the engine? But also...that was being thrown prior to the "fix" when the engine would keep running, just in limp mode. So not sure if that'd be causing the engine dying now.

If your crank signal is dropping out it will kill the engine. ECM has to see crank signal

[Tanner]

The MP motors time themselves based on the cam sensor! You advance the timing around 42-43* and the cam sensor and ECM do the rest. Kind of different

[strohlde]

Ok... Alt is good. Had it tested and now I see 14+ volts when running above idle. I guess it doesn't start charging until you speed it up past idle?

Aside from that...now that I have figured out how to speed up the engine without engaging the transmission the engine seems to keep running when not at idle speeds, once I slow it back down to idle it runs for about a minute and then shuts off.

I'm sure this means something, hopefully, to those of you that are more mechanically inclined.

But it seems like it's not in limp mode any longer but I still have the annoying beep every 15 seconds or so. So I might be able to go out and run it aside from that annoyance.

[dom w. forte]

In the beginning you stated that the dealer replaced the distributor, what was the reason for it to be changed?
When a distributor is changed the cam sensor has to be adjusted to have correct timing, I would ask the dealer to recheck cam sensor adjustment.
Cranksensor controls spark creation and cam sensor controls spark advance, if cam signal is off timing could be retarded and cause a poor or to low an idle.
You will get the beeping if sensor is out of sink.

[strohlde]

Dom,

I never saw it but they said the cap was "growing things". But I'm thinking the same thing...that something with the timing is just off. Wish I knew what I was doing to adjust it.

[SPBFAN]

In the beginning you stated that the dealer replaced the distributor, what was the reason for it to be changed?
When a distributor is changed the cam sensor has to be adjusted to have correct timing, I would ask the dealer to recheck cam sensor adjustment.
Cranksensor controls spark creation and cam sensor controls spark advance, if cam signal is off timing could be retarded and cause a poor or to low an idle.
You will get the beeping if sensor is out of sink.

This can only be done if you have a scan tool and requires looking at scan data or depending on the tool their may be a function in the tool that you use to do this.

[SPBFAN]

Dom,

I never saw it but they said the cap was "growing things". But I'm thinking the same thing...that something with the timing is just off. Wish I knew what I was doing to adjust it.

You will need a scan tool or you will have to take it back to them. Setting the timing is critical on these systems. The CAM sensor is inside the distributor.