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Wiring a new TAPS switch

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    Wiring a new TAPS switch

    Hello there,

    I just bought an 01 21V and the throttle was replaced with one that does not control the TAPS plate. I purchased an (on)-off-(on) toggle to go on the dash and replace one of the ACC switches.

    I found a white sheathed wire that is cut and appears it was ran to the throttle area. It has three small wires inside it; red, white and black. Does anyone think this it the wire that I should hook to the new switch? Also, I suppose the red one is the power and should be attached to the middle post and the other two should be attached to the two outside posts on the switch??

    Any comments or suggestions? I am not above just hooking stuff up and seeing what happens either.

    Thanks!

    #2
    Originally posted by bryancm View Post
    .... I found a white sheathed wire that is cut and appears it was ran to the throttle area. It has three small wires inside it; red, white and black. Does anyone think this it the wire that I should hook to the new switch? Also, I suppose the red one is the power and should be attached to the middle post and the other two should be attached to the two outside posts on the switch?? ....
    Just crawled under the dash on our boat and it has a white sheathed wire to the TAPS switch.
    I think if I ever work on that cable I will replace those tiny wires with a larger gauge.
    The red seems to be power and the black and white are probably UP and DOWN.
    Not sure which one is which.
    I would hook up the switch the way you mentioned and try it.
    Those wires can't carry much current.
    Does anyone have a schematic of the control board in case it fails?

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks for the info.

      I did just in fact wire it up. Turns out, black is the power, white and red are the up and down wires. Works perfect! I absolutely love fixing things for $11.

      Now I just hope my transmission only needs a bit of oil to get that "trans oil" light to go off. Fingers crossed!

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by bryancm View Post
        .... Now I just hope my transmission only needs a bit of oil to get that "trans oil" light to go off. ...
        The TRANS oil light is actually sensing the V-drive oil pressure and the light should be ON at idle.
        When the oil pressure builds up to greater than 2 psi the light will go out.
        Our boat sat for 2 years before we got it and the oil in the sensor had clogged it.
        Replaced the sensor and it has been working fine - pressure sensor, 2 psi, NC, Hobbs Corp. - 76061

        Is the white - UP and the red - DOWN?

        Comment


          #5
          I don't remember which was which with the switch (nice rhyme).

          V-drive fluid, huh? Great piece of info for this newbie. I just noticed that red light for the first time while cruising in the other day and can't remember if I saw it only while idling or at higher RPMs. I'll be on it again tomorrow to check that. If it stays on while motoring then I'll be back on here with more questions I'm sure.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by bryancm View Post
            Thanks for the info.

            I did just in fact wire it up. Turns out, black is the power, white and red are the up and down wires. Works perfect! I absolutely love fixing things for $11.

            Now I just hope my transmission only needs a bit of oil to get that "trans oil" light to go off. Fingers crossed!
            We have an '04 22i R. and our TAPS isn't working either. We think it needs to be re wired like yours needed. Could u post some pictures on how you wired it up? that would be great, thanks

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by bryancm View Post
              ... I just noticed that red light for the first time while cruising in the other day and can't remember if I saw it only while idling or at higher RPMs. ...

              Went out today and here is how our light is working when first taking up slack in the tow line.
              The TRANS OIL light is ON at idle.
              The light goes OFF @ 1400 RPM when trans engages.
              The light goes back ON @ 1000 RPM when backing off the throttle.
              The trans will stay engaged down to 800 RPM.

              Comment


                #8
                Was on the boat last night. The light was on at start up and stayed on while idling through the cove. Ran it up to 2000 RPMs before it started to flicker and then go out. I never saw it again at any RPM the rest of the evening, even at idle. It dawned on me that the other day, we had the boat off and were swimming for over an hour before I started it up again. My guess is that the v-drive gets pressurized after running around 2000 RPMs and stays that way until the boat has been off and cooled. Either way, I feel better about it now. TAPS works, Trans light is off, all good.... wait, my stereo remote on the dash quit working while out last night too. Just wouldn't be right for everything to work at once! I'm sure its no biggie though.

                Comment


                  #9
                  On our boat the TRANS OIL light comes ON every time the engine gets to 1000 RPM or lower with the trans engaged turning the V-drive.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Would you think there might be a problem with the way mine is working? It will stay off after warmed up even while out of gear.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I don't really know.
                      The light shows when the V-drive oil pressure drops below 2 psi.
                      I guess if the pressure stays up when it's not turning it might have really good seals, but I would think the oil pressure would bleed off fairly quick back to the sump.
                      How long after a run while sitting at an idle does it take for the light to come on?
                      Your switch might just be a bit sticky.
                      I tried spraying some carb cleaner in ours, but it was just gummed up solid and stayed ON all the time.
                      Just saw your PM.
                      The NAPA Balkamp 7011605 looks like the same switch - a bit pricey at $54.
                      Here's the Hobbs info - http://content.honeywell.com/sensing...reSwitches.asp
                      I can't remember if I got ours direct from Hobbs, but I thought it was around $30.

                      Comment

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