2009 22Ve engine rebuild or replace

[gottjas]

I bought a 2009 22 Ve last fall (PCM EX343 engine). We took it out a few times last year, didn't go crazy with ballast (it has factory hard tanks plus MLA locker sacs). It seemed fine, pulled tubes and boards with seemingly no issue, even with some ballast. This year, I tried loading up the sacs to make a bigger surf wave, and it didn't seem to have as much power as it should (it has the acme 1235 prop). We saw some white smoke coming out the exhaust as well. I brought it in for a tune up and to get everything checked out, and one cylinder has low compression. They are saying it needs a new long block, or a complete replacement engine. While chatting with him he threw out a very rough estimate (not an official quote), saying the long block part alone would be around 9k. I'm looking for any and all words of wisdom, opinions, advice, on what to do. This is a reputable, respected marine mechanic, so I believe the diagnosis. I'll call around to see what others would charge for the same parts/labor. So bummed right now...

[chpthril]

They are saying it needs a new long block, or a complete replacement engine

These are essentially the same. The difference is a "complete" engine from PCM would be a drop-in and plug up and go v's transferring all the external external accessories, which dont need replacement anyway.

I dont know the shop, so this is not a dis on them but simply an opinion of a retired technician with 18 years experience behind a wrench and in front of a class. "low compression on one cylinder" IS NOT a diagnoses. This is simply a symptom of the low power issue. In now way shape or form does low compression constitute a long block or crate engine.

There are places that compression can be going so to speak and a leak-down test can find them. Water in the cylinder? Water in the oil?

[gottjas]

Thanks for the feedback. I am bringing it to a different shop, as they are able to get to it faster and get me back on the water with some season left. I told them what the first place diagnosed, and I can have them re-diagnose as well before diving headfirst into the replacement. I had the oil changed last fall with the winterization, and also had an auto mechanic give it a once over before bringing it to the place it's at now. Neither of them mentioned water in the oil. There was some water leaking out of the engine when we had it out last and noticed the white smoke. I didn't take the time to try to see exactly where it was coming from, but the auto mechanic said it was coming from near where it connects to the v drive when he looked at it. Not sure if it's a popped frost plug?

[chpthril]

That was a quick post as I was heading up the road for the day to see mom.

By pumping regulate air into the suspect cylinder, you can see if it leaks or hold.

Holds but had low compression = worn cam or other valvetrain issue

Leaks into crankcase = piston/rings or cylinder wall issue

Air exiting exhaust = burned or open exhaust valve

Air coming out the throttle body = intake valve issue

Air in the cooling system = head gasket issue

Many of these dont require a rebuild, long block, short block or complete rebuild. This is why taking that next step is important.

After the leak-down test, I would spend the labor $$# and have the shop pull the one head off. Odds are, you will visually confirm the root issue.

[duffymahoney]

9k seems crazy high. Chpthril is correct, have someone look at it.

[gottjas]

Thanks again for the details and taking time to respond. I picked the boat up from that shop today and talked to him some more. All they did was a compression test. The replacement block that he quoted (a factory remanufactured one) was one possible fix. I guess he was trying to give me an idea of what it could cost to see if I wanted him to continue and take the engine apart to see the actual issue and proper fix? He did not make that very clear. He didn't run down a list of possible causes, fixes, and costs like I would expect, and I tried to ask for that info.

I have more deets that I didn't mention above. When I changed the impeller this spring, it was in bad shape. Kind of melted and folded over on itself in spots. PXL_20240525_205119868.jpg
He saw this and said it probably overheated and could have a burnt valve.

I'm taking it to the other place on Friday. We'll see how that goes!

[gottjas]

Compression: cylinder 7 - 170 lbs. All others between 205-210 lbs.

[gottjas]

I'm re-reading your post chpthril, and it makes perfect sense - thank you for that. How much labor would you expect a compression test to take? How about the leak-down test? It sounds like they should've done both? He charged me for two hours.

[chpthril]

First shop? two hrs to do compression test on all 8 holes and leak down on suspect hole.

2nd shop 1-2 to to just reaffirm low compression on one hole and run leak down.

2-3 hrs to pull head.