1999 Tige 21 V Limited Taps Problem

[taffmaster]

Hey guys I am new to the forum and new to to Tige. I just got my boat (1999 Tige 2100 VLimited) from a doctor that I have worked for for about 3 years. He sold me the boat for $1000 trailer and all!!!! The boat only had 43 hours on it when I got it (it just sat in his barn....???). Since getting the boat about 3 weeks ago I have replaced the starter and alternator my self and put about 20 hrs on the boat. My next thing to tackle is the Taps system. The plate is stuck all the way up on 8 and well this makes it close to impossible to pull many people on tubes since its takes about 30 seconds to plain out. When I press the adjust toggle on the throttle my volt meter goes way down but I hear no noise and the plate does not move. I have no idea where to start so any pointers would be nice. All I have done is locate where the system is (back left corner of my boat). Sorry this is so long but any advice will be greatly appreciated!!

[R&T Babich]

Welcome and wow what a great deal !!!
We got our boat 2 1/2 years ago with 41 hrs and paid a lot more.

Your TAPS system is a modified trim tab setup made by Bennett Trim Tabs: http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/parts.php?cID=7
Instead of a pair of trim plates the TAPS is a single plate run by one side of a V351 Hydraulic Power Unit. Make sure the fluid level is correct. The cylinders may be frozen. You can call Bennett and get new seal kits for the cylinders.

Our TAPS wasn't working initially, too, but it didn't seem to have as much effect on pulling tubes as you describe. One of the most noticeable improvements for our setup was changing the prop. Our original prop was an OJ 14x18 and yours is probably the same. We replaced it with an Acme 537 13.5x16 and we can pull 3 huge tubes with 8 kids no problem.

[taffmaster]

That great advice on the prop. I will start messing with the taps system this weekend and that sounds like a good place to start. Thanks for the advice!!

[dogbert]

Hey guys I am new to the forum and new to to Tige. I just got my boat (1999 Tige 2100 VLimited) from a doctor that I have worked for for about 3 years. He sold me the boat for $1000 trailer and all!!!! The boat only had 43 hours on it when I got it (it just sat in his barn....???). Since getting the boat about 3 weeks ago I have replaced the starter and alternator my self and put about 20 hrs on the boat. My next thing to tackle is the Taps system. The plate is stuck all the way up on 8 and well this makes it close to impossible to pull many people on tubes since its takes about 30 seconds to plain out. When I press the adjust toggle on the throttle my volt meter goes way down but I hear no noise and the plate does not move. I have no idea where to start so any pointers would be nice. All I have done is locate where the system is (back left corner of my boat). Sorry this is so long but any advice will be greatly appreciated!!

Well, clearly the problem is that you are pulling tubes!
(Just kidding)

R&T Babich is right and those are the things I would check first. One other possibility is the fact that the switch is shorting on the throttle. I'd make sure you have plenty of fluid (it's on the starboard side behind the access panel in the rear of your starboard V-Drive locker). I'd check the lines running to the trim tab to make sure there are no leaks...also check the reservoir.

[R&T Babich]

What engine does it have ? Merc 350 Mag MPI ?
I would change out the impeller, trans/V-drive fluids and serpentine belt.
If it's the Mag MPI here is info on the impeller - 2 9/16” dia, 2” wide, 8 blades, 3/4” shaft, single flat - Merc 47-59362T 1, Sierra 18-3087, Go2Marine 77527.
Ours sat for 2 years and the impeller looked great, except for the 2 vanes that were bent over. They were really cracked at the base of the vanes.
I'm running a Prestone serpentine and have had no problems, here's more no.s - 88”, 6 groove - Merc 57-807755-4, Prestone 880K6, Gates K060880, Dayco 5060880, Sierra 18-15112.
Check inside the distributor cap and see if the contacts are brass (original Merc). Some replacements use aluminum which don't hold up well.
The bilge pump may not work, ours didn't. I replaced the whole setup - pump, hose and thru-hull with a setup that has a lot more capacity.

[dogbert]

Good call on the impeller and distributor cap/rotor. On the merc (which were the only engine options for the 1999 model year), you'll need to replace the distributor cap quite often.

On all inboards, your impeller will last about 2 years, so I'd plan on changing them. There's a sticky thread on here with a link to Mercruiser parts in the Maintenance forum and lots of how-tos on how to do things. I've had my boat since it was new and we use it a lot. You got a great deal on your purchase. Post some pics when you get a chance!

[ajholt7]

$1000 what a rip off. I'll give you $900 for it.

[Fit to be Tige]

Congratulations on the new boat!! And welcome to the site.

[rjcruise]

Congrats on the new boat and welcome to the forum. One heck of a deal you got there. Can't offer much more information than what others here have already said, but like mentioned, in the how to section and just general search function there is tons of info on our boats, how to fix them, part numbers, etc.

Have fun with your new boat, and yes, definitely post some pics!

[taffmaster]

What engine does it have ? Merc 350 Mag MPI ?
I would change out the impeller, trans/V-drive fluids and serpentine belt.
If it's the Mag MPI here is info on the impeller - 2 9/16” dia, 2” wide, 8 blades, 3/4” shaft, single flat - Merc 47-59362T 1, Sierra 18-3087, Go2Marine 77527.
Ours sat for 2 years and the impeller looked great, except for the 2 vanes that were bent over. They were really cracked at the base of the vanes.
I'm running a Prestone serpentine and have had no problems, here's more no.s - 88”, 6 groove - Merc 57-807755-4, Prestone 880K6, Gates K060880, Dayco 5060880, Sierra 18-15112.
Check inside the distributor cap and see if the contacts are brass (original Merc). Some replacements use aluminum which don't hold up well.
The bilge pump may not work, ours didn't. I replaced the whole setup - pump, hose and thru-hull with a setup that has a lot more capacity.

Yeah it is the merc 350 mag mpi. I also had to do a new bilge set up, hose and and all. I will keep you guys posted this weekend on what I find out about the taps. I am sure I will have a lot more questions. Thanks for all the input thus far!!

[samw]

Yeah it is the merc 350 mag mpi. I also had to do a new bilge set up, hose and and all. I will keep you guys posted this weekend on what I find out about the taps. I am sure I will have a lot more questions. Thanks for all the input thus far!!

Taff
I have also been having some issue with my taps. Two things to check. First unplug your pump from the switch wiring and jump the connections with a spare battery. This will tell you if your wiring or relay under the dash or a pump/cylinder issue. Your wires should be green, yellow, black, white and I for get the other. I will get back to you you which wires to to jump. If I remember right green is down and yellow is up. I also disconnected my hydraulic tubes that let me run the pump with having to push the cylinder. then you can go and try and move your cylinder to see how they are moving. The fill with any atf fluid and use the battery test I suggested.
On my problem I believe it it is the relay. When I try mine all I get is a clicking sound from my relay.
Bennett has a trouble shooting trim tab guide on there website.
Let me know if you have any of questions. I have 01 21 V ltd.

Sam

[taffmaster]

Ok here is an update. I got in there and took apart the pump. The reservior was filled with sludge....I am in the process of hot wiring pump to alt battery to see if the pump is working. Also I have noticed that everyone is talking about a fuse. Is there a fuse for taps other than the ones on the dash that you just repress if blown?? I also went ahead and took apart my throttle arm to find that my wiring it there was torn to shred causing a short. Do i just clip wrap with electrical tape and resauder to toggle switch to fix this? I will update you tonight when I test pump with battery.
Thanks for all the help!!!

[dogbert]

Yes, to the throttle switch.

As for the fuse, I'd have to go look at mine to say for sure.

[R&T Babich]

... I also went ahead and took apart my throttle arm to find that my wiring it there was torn to shred causing a short. Do i just clip wrap with electrical tape and resauder to toggle switch to fix this? ...

The wires to the TAPS switch on the throttle are really small. You could solder some larger wires to the switch and reconnect to the existing wiring under the dash. I would solder everything. The TAPS switch is just an (ON)-OFF-(ON) rocker switch. It could be replaced with a similar type switch mounted in the dash. I don't change my TAPS settings all that often and with the Perfect Pass I don't have to have my hand on the throttle constantly.
I think the fuse is an inline unit under the dash. It's power would come from the ignition-ON switch. I still don't know what all the TAPS/relay assembly under the dash does. There's more than just a relay on the board.

[taffmaster]

Ok so I am putting green and yellow wire (up) on positive side of battery and black wire on negative side of battery. The pump clicked at first then the wires just got really hot??? I believe the wires are supposed to be copper because I can see flashes of copper, however, the wires are mostly black (not copper) could this be making the wires not get good signal i.e. HOT!?!?!?!