Taps no worky

[whitlock87]

Loud
Sorry I just noticed that you where not the one who responded to my question.

[zad0030]

Whit, your close but not all there. The Taps in slalom at plane speeds will actually cause drag. Because its actually holding the back end up.

At WOT, if you run at 8 you will travel faster than 1. Why? Because the Taps plate drags. The hull rides in its natural position and you will get 1-3 more mph at WOT. But it will porpoise. So keep it at 3-5. This will keep the boat level in its natural position, and keeps it from bouncing.

Now any slow speed, who cares? Because your are boarding, surfing, etc.... Why does it matter? If you are cruising, you are on "plain", or atleast you should be. Then just trim it to a midrange level and your set.

Not sure how long you have had your boat, but good luck driving it with the taps at 8 and WOT. It will not do it. You will be proposing so bad that you cannot stay in your seat.
(Now maybe on a glassy lake you can drive it WOT, but add any rollers and your done.)
You need to lower the bow to cut through the water.
I get around 4.8gph, how are you doing driving it with the taps at 8.

In addition, after you pass about 3k on the rpm meter, your GPH will go way down (Down means more gallons required per hour) the Marine power 5.7 gets its best GPH at 3k.

Obviously you didnt read the entire post because I said, that it will porpoise (I dont know what "proposing" is in nautical terms, I dont think im going to marry the boat) and that you should trim down to the midrange, 3-5.

Now ok, ~3k RPM (Revolutions per Minute) is a good rate for gas VS distance. You are well on plane to reduce drag, and still not burning excess fuel... agreed.

BUT, Are you sure the lower the number is the more gallons required?
Because I swear, I would much rather be running 2 gallons per hour rather than 6 GALLONS PER HOUR.(Hypothetical numbers, not acually recorded fuel consumption)

[whitlock87]

BUT, Are you sure the lower the number is the more gallons required?
Because I swear, I would much rather be running 2 gallons per hour rather than 6 GALLONS PER HOUR.(Hypothetical numbers, not acually recorded fuel consumption)

Look when people say that the GPH will go down, this means that it will take more gas then before. Just like when people say that there GPM has gone down they are referring to having to use more gas then they did before.
This is why when I say your GPH will go down I mean it the number will increase.
So if I am getting 4.5 gallons per hour and it goes down, I might now be only getting 6 gallons per hour. And yes less is better when we talk GPH, unlike GPM, which more is better.
And I meant porpoisesing.
Dam auto correct.

[whitlock87]

Zad, I just notice that your Tige was a 2003. There a hug difference between the hull on your 21-I and the one on the 2004 Switch-V.
The Switch series was one of the first boats to use the newer convex shape hull. I believe that the hull from the Switch-V is the current hull for the 20-V.
Flatten out the hull, add the engine weight to the center of the boat and this is why you can drive WOT with the taps at a higher setting then I can. Your old boat should also been able to turn on a dime. ( V-Drives can turn tight, but not as good as an DD can) why did you change?

[loudelectronics]

Loud
Sorry I just noticed that you where not the one who responded to my question.

No Probs. I still stand by my statement though. Your fuel consumption will be less driving the boat at 30 mph with taps up rather then down in the 1 range. Just give it a try. Drive with taps in 1 at 30 mph. Then bring it up to the point where you are just below porpoising ~4-5 on my 24v. You will see that you will got a few mile per hour faster with out giving more gas. You actually have to decrease the throttle to stay at the same speed at setting 1. Thus using less RPM and less fuel to accomplish the same thing. This is how it works for me, how tige advertises it, and all I/O boat owners operate there boats. This is one of the features that only tige can offer in the inboard market. Most of the competition are static hulls and fixed latitude there for less versatile and consume more fuel.

[Fast1911]

wow, did we ever figure out why the TAPS wasn't working

[loudelectronics]

wow, did we ever figure out why the TAPS wasn't working

Lol, forums are so funny that way. Does not take much to get off topic but it also makes them fun.

But the taps is working now. Bad wire to the actuator, gave more slack and it is fine now.

[zad0030]

Zad, I just notice that your Tige was a 2003. There a hug difference between the hull on your 21-I and the one on the 2004 Switch-V.
The Switch series was one of the first boats to use the newer convex shape hull. I believe that the hull from the Switch-V is the current hull for the 20-V.
Flatten out the hull, add the engine weight to the center of the boat and this is why you can drive WOT with the taps at a higher setting then I can. Your old boat should also been able to turn on a dime. ( V-Drives can turn tight, but not as good as an DD can) why did you change?

Well no,

Tige started the Convex V in 2003. My 21i did have the convex V. And Im not saying I could safely run WOT at 8 without porpoising, because I couldnt. The boat would literally jump out of the water. Im just using it as an example, at WOT if you bring the plate up, you will get a few more mph.

As far as turning, I could never get that boat to do a 180, in its own wake, it would turn sharp but not as good as other boats I have driven. It still rolls in the turns, like a I/O because of the V in the hull.

We needed a slalom, 3-event, machine and the 21i was too much of a crossover. I've always said it, you can make a ski boat into a wakeboard boat but you cant make a wakeboard boat a ski boat. And this was the case for us. Looking back there is only two things I miss on the tige, the stereo and the rear storage compartment. Other than that we have been really happy with our new boat.

[whitlock87]

No Probs. I still stand by my statement though. Your fuel consumption will be less driving the boat at 30 mph with taps up rather then down in the 1 range. Just give it a try. Drive with taps in 1 at 30 mph. Then bring it up to the point where you are just below porpoising ~4-5 on my 24v. You will see that you will got a few mile per hour faster with out giving more gas. You actually have to decrease the throttle to stay at the same speed at setting 1. Thus using less RPM and less fuel to accomplish the same thing. This is how it works for me, how tige advertises it, and all I/O boat owners operate there boats. This is one of the features that only tige can offer in the inboard market. Most of the competition are static hulls and fixed latitude there for less versatile and consume more fuel.

I will give it a try

[loudelectronics]

I will give it a try

I know your johny skeptical of this but just try it out. Get up to a set speed (25-30 mph). ONce steady just take the taps up one at a time and you will see the mph increase until porpoising takes place and then back off. If you are running a cruise then you will stay at the mph but the rpm will decrease.

[whitlock87]

I know your johny skeptical of this but just try it out. Get up to a set speed (25-30 mph). ONce steady just take the taps up one at a time and you will see the mph increase until porpoising takes place and then back off. If you are running a cruise then you will stay at the mph but the rpm will decrease.

No, I really am planning to try it.
I am currently in China, so it will have to wait until I get back.


My big problem is that I either driving between 16-23 for towing, or 40+ getting to where I want to go. Never really drove around 30 for any period of time. I have a 38-gallon tank and get around 5 gph, so I never really had to conserve until I went to Powell last year. (Good thing Powel has gas pumps in different location on the lake)

According to boat test, I can get as good as 4.5 gph, but I have never seen it.

I let you know what I find out
David

[loudelectronics]

No, I really am planning to try it.
I am currently in China, so it will have to wait until I get back.


My big problem is that I either driving between 16-23 for towing, or 40+ getting to where I want to go. Never really drove around 30 for any period of time. I have a 38-gallon tank and get around 5 gph, so I never really had to conserve until I went to Powell last year. (Good thing Powel has gas pumps in different location on the lake)

According to boat test, I can get as good as 4.5 gph, but I have never seen it.

I let you know what I find out
David

What the heck you doing over there? It is starting to warm up over here and time to get the boats out.

I just through 30 mph out there. Just need to be planing is all.

[whitlock87]

The company I work for start to move some of its manufacturing to china about 5 years ago. We now have 95%of it in China due to the labor rate, and about 60 people in the US lost there Jobs I was one of the lucky few that have to change rolls and keep there job.
Its not that I can speak Chinese (which I cannot), but I am good with CNC machine repairs. My mane roll is to keep all the equipment running at 100% both here and in the US. So I come to China about 7 times a year to do some PM work and training.
I do try to plan most of my trips around the wakeboarding season.