Taps no worky

[loudelectronics]

Installing a new brain cause mine went kaput. Got it all installed but can not get the taps to work. The breaker is not set off. Is there any more fuses I can look at to see what might be wrong? With the brain not working I was able to manually power the taps. So I know the motor was working last year.

If I send 12 volts to the white and black wires with red stripes I should be able to make the taps move up and down, correct? If it does not, where do I start looking? The tester says that I have power to the Lenco brain.

[loudelectronics]

Got it working. It appears that the wires to the motor were broken right at the spot they enter the motor. I did not replace them cause there is no way I could make it look factory again with out the proper parts. I rednecked it and just moved the wires in the right position to make them work.

New question. My taps guage is backwards. Slalom is 8 and wakeboard is 1. Tried reversing the posts on the back of the guage but that did not work. Any ideas? All wires are color coded and match properlly.

[whitlock87]

Reverse the wires to the ram. (Actuator)

[Waterski-Rebel]

Loud - I have the same problem, and my boat is an 04 too. We must have had the same guy install our TAPS. Let me know if swapping the wires at the ram solve your problem.

[loudelectronics]

I do not think swapping the wires will work cause then up will be down and down will be up with the thumb control. The thumb control is correct, just the guage is not.

[Waterski-Rebel]

Good point. Well, if you figure it out, please let me know.

[whitlock87]

I do not think swapping the wires will work cause then up will be down and down will be up with the thumb control. The thumb control is correct, just the guage is not.

On my boat, the thumb control is just a rocker switch. You can pop it off and rotate 180 then reinstall.
Now everything is going in the same direction.

[Waterski-Rebel]

My problem is when the plate is all the way down (default position), the gauge shows it up at #8, and when the plate is raised to wakeboard and/or surf the gauge moves down.

The switch matches the gauge.

[zad0030]

My problem is when the plate is all the way down (default position), the gauge shows it up at #8, and when the plate is raised to wakeboard and/or surf the gauge moves down.

The switch matches the gauge.

On my 03 the default postition was 8.

[whitlock87]

Can you take a picture of your gage?
On my boat, the default position is 8, with the plat UP (not much chrome showing on the ram). This is the wake board position. The cursing position is 1, with the plate DOWN (showing about 3 inches of chrome on the ram)

On my gage, 1 has a thin line and is on the left side of the gage. 8 has the thickest line, and is on the right side. (The thicker the line, the bigger the wake)
With the plate UP (8), the bow (noise) will be higher in the water, thus pushing the transom (back) of the boat deeper into the water creating a large wake. The problem in this position, is proposing at high speeds. With the plate DOWN (1), it will force the bow into the water. This will give you your best GPH and a nice smooth ride at high speeds. It will also give you a nice (better) slalom wake (single ski).
Let us know
Thanks
David W

[loudelectronics]

You actually get better mileage with the taps up as you are pushing less water.

Well I did what was advised, reversed the wires and then flipped the switch up side down. Everything works as it should but the wires are crossed still.

[whitlock87]

You actually get better mileage with the taps up as you are pushing less water.

.

That is incorrect.
With the bow up, the but of the boat is sitting deeper in the water. This will cause the boat to use more power to push it way through. With the bow down, the boat can skim across the water, thus there is less resistance causing the boat to use less power. This is what they call plaining. All boat get there best performance while plaining. On a Switch-V this will only happen at speeds over 22mph.

[whitlock87]

Remember
TAPS up = Wakeboard wake / Bow up
TAPS down = Slalom wake / Bow down (with the bow down, you can see easer, and the boat will handle better at high speeds)

[zad0030]

Whit, your close but not all there. The Taps in slalom at plane speeds will actually cause drag. Because its actually holding the back end up.

At WOT, if you run at 8 you will travel faster than 1. Why? Because the Taps plate drags. The hull rides in its natural position and you will get 1-3 more mph at WOT. But it will purpoise. So keep it at 3-5. This will keep the boat level in its natural position, and keeps it from bouncing.

Now any slow speed, who cares? Because your are boarding, surfing, etc.... Why does it matter? If you are cruising, you are on "plain", or atleast you should be. Then just trim it to a midrange level and your set.

[whitlock87]

Not sure how long you have had your boat, but good luck driving it with the taps at 8 and WOT. It will not do it. You will be porpoisesing so bad that you cannot stay in your seat.
(Now maybe on a glassy lake you can drive it WOT, but add any rollers and your done.)
You need to lower the bow to cut through the water.
I get around 4.8gph, how are you doing driving it with the taps at 8.

In addition, after you pass about 3k on the rpm meter, your GPH will go way down (Down means more gallons required per hour) the Marine power 5.7 gets its best GPH at 3k.