Yes it runs all the time when key is on. Only get the low pressure version which typically is less than 5psi. I ran it to the key as it was easier to get the wires down the gunnel than it would have been trying to get to the factory pump on my direct drive.
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My vapor locking fixed
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Ok cool. I can get back to the fuel pump on my v drive and may try that instead. Still may run an in-line kill switch just in case, along with a fuse, just in case. Just don’t want to dump gas into the bilge. Long term goal is to buy the kit but can’t swing that$500 right now. You said you added an extra hose to convert back if necessary. Did you just leave and an extra hose in the boat? Thanks for all the advise and help
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I have been battling this for years and just found this thread on here and could not be happier. Basically in the past I have just kept the boat running in between skiers or boarders so I would not have to deal with it and if we decided to sit for a while to talk to friends I would just open the back engine hatch to let the hot air out but this made me look like I was broken down and it was irritating to have a boat so nice but had to keep the engine hatch open while parked. I will be ordering the kit from Mercruiser over the next few weeks and installing before season gets going.
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Great choice. $381 here.
https://www.greatlakesskipper.com/me...SABEgKkzfD_BwEMike Allen, Tigé owner since 1997
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Tigé Jedi
- Jul 2010
- 4302
- TN USA
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The difference in price may be due to the marine fuel pump being SAE J1171 certified, meaning it is explosion proof and can be safely used in a marine engine space. Automotive parts do NOT require J1171 because the engine space is not enclosed and fuel vapors cannot build up like they can in a boat.
100% of the electronic equipment we supply to boat manufacturers is certified to SAE J1171 and we provide a copy of the certification to every manufacturer, who in turn provide copies to the relevant regulatory agencies in each country (USCG here in the States, Canada has their own, etc.).
YMMV, but I would not run an electrical automotive component in a marine engine space unless I could see the SAE J1171 marking on it (which would probably mean they just make a single version and sell it into both markets). Ever seen an exploded engine compartment? Lots of police and insurance paperwork....
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Originally posted by IDBoating View PostThe difference in price may be due to the marine fuel pump being SAE J1171 certified, meaning it is explosion proof and can be safely used in a marine engine space. Automotive parts do NOT require J1171 because the engine space is not enclosed and fuel vapors cannot build up like they can in a boat.
100% of the electronic equipment we supply to boat manufacturers is certified to SAE J1171 and we provide a copy of the certification to every manufacturer, who in turn provide copies to the relevant regulatory agencies in each country (USCG here in the States, Canada has their own, etc.).
YMMV, but I would not run an electrical automotive component in a marine engine space unless I could see the SAE J1171 marking on it (which would probably mean they just make a single version and sell it into both markets). Ever seen an exploded engine compartment? Lots of police and insurance paperwork....
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Originally posted by kjohnson709 View PostI wonder if Marine Power has anything like this for their 6.0L our of a 24V. I am going to email them and ask. AZ heat = vapor lock!
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We were having a problem where the engine wouldn't restart after being off for about 20-30 minutes but would start after 45 - 60 minutes of sitting and cooling. I don't know if this is the same problem you guys were having but my boat mechanic told me this was vapor lock. He had me switch to no-ethanol gas (here called conventional regular) and I haven't had a problem since. I hope I'm on the same subject as you guys on this thread but I'm not sure what symptoms you were having on your engines.David
Lubbock, TX
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