Time to winterize. Should I do it?

[Utemachine]

It's a very depressing time of year, it's time to winterize...

What I'm kicking around is doing it myself or paying the $100 bucks to get it done. I like to do things myself, but I like to have a manual of some sorts. I have a 350 carbed Marine Power motor and I can't find anything specific to my motor for winterizing. Also, I have no clue how to run anti freeze through the block and do I even need to? I guess my biggest question is, can I screw up a winterization or is it simply draining all the water out?

I did read the how to but that's for a different motor. Any tips for the Tige Rookie? Any How to's I missed in my search of the site would be greatly appreciated.

[TigeTail]

DIY Winterization

If you can get it done for $100, that is cheap. Around Spokane it is $300. I have done my own for 15 years and frankly enjoy it. It is a good time to look over the engine, clean and lube any moving parts, tighten any loose parts and touch-up any places that the paint may be coming off. I also clean the bilge out and Armor-All (or similar) all the plastic and rubber. You can get an engine owners manual from Marine Powers website and that should have instructions on winterization. I always back-fill the hoses and block with bio-degradable antifreeze just in case some water didn't get drained out.

[Joeprunc]

$100 bucks is dirt cheap, I probably spend close to that in parts.

Here's what I do (though our winters don't get much colder than 29 at the coldest).

After the last outing I make sure I top off the fuel and put Sta-Bil (fuel stabilizer) in the fuel.
1) Run the motor for 5-10 minutes to warm up the oil.
2) After the engine is at running temps, I fog the motor. (pull the air filter off the carb and just spray until the motor bogs down and dies).
3) Change the oil and oil filter (I use Chevron Marine Grade oil).
4) Change the tranny fluid (I need to use a pump to suction it out of the tranny)
5) Drain the block and manifolds (I forget how many plugs there are). Drain your bilge. I use a high lift and drain all the water out.
6) Pull the hoses off the thermostat housing, and pour the pink RV coolant into each hose till they are full. (the one hose that goes to your sea water pickup will take very little before it pours out the pickup)
7) Grease the steering and throttle cables with gear oil.
8) Spray the motor down with silicone based spray.
9) Pull the battery out and put on a trickle charger.
10) Wash, polish, and wax the whole boat and trailer.
11) Make sure everything is dry as can be and wrap her up for the winter...I put two dehumidifier crystal cans in, and have a little heater fan that I have on a timer to run at night.


When spring comes I change the impeller, every other season change the spark plugs.
After the first tank of gas I change the fuel/water separator.

[Utemachine]

Joe, that is a great checklist and you have inspired me to do it myself! I should have clarified... The $100 only included draining the water, flushing with antifreeze, fogging and a couple of other little things. To do everything you do it was about $350.

I have a few questions for you...

- Where does all the coolant go that you pour into the hoses and what do you do with the coolant you poured in?

- How do you grease the cables?

- Do you spray down your whole motor with the silicone spray and wipe it down? What kind of spray are we talking and where can I get it?

Thanks for the help!

[Joeprunc]

The Pink RV Coolant is supposedly environmentally acceptable, so after winter I just flush it out after installing the impeller. The coolant will fill into lower extremities of the block (where there still maybe sitting water that didn't drain). I believe the other two hoses from the t-stat go into the manfolds and into the exhcanger. This will significantly lower the freezing point where there is bound to be sitting water. Air will not freeze so the upper portion of your block should be fine. Most marinas that winterize actually hook up a "Fake a Lake" system and pump your block full of coolant...but think about how much will drain out when you drive you boat home.

I have a little oil can that I squirt it onto the exposed sections of the cables, then cycle them to their extremities. And apply more or wipe off the excess. You could also probably use some grease from your grease gun.

I spray the whole motor down and don't wipe it off. It it just to protect from rusting...bolts, springs, or anything that is still bare metal. The spray will evaporate off as soon as you warm the motor in the spring. I use a spray from NAPA (Riebes) Like this stuff.


There is a lot of good information on winterizing on this site.

[Utemachine]

Well Boys, I bit the bullet and paid the 100 to get it down. It came down to a time thing. Not to mention the HOA was getting pissed becuase I left the boat in my driveway for too long. So I paid the 100 and I'm going to nestle my baby away for a long winters nap tomorrow. (I just shed a tear during the typing of this post)