This is an rzx3? I don’t think I ever got water up to the surf locker. You may need to change your technique up a bit when stopping. Try slowing to a stop instead of slamming on the brakes. I slow down, stop, wait for the wave to pass me by, then turn around and idle back to the rider. I never take on water and seldom gets tossed around from the wave.
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Changing Taps3 for GSA
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Originally posted by UNSTUCK View PostThis is an rzx3? I don’t think I ever got water up to the surf locker. You may need to change your technique up a bit when stopping. Try slowing to a stop instead of slamming on the brakes. I slow down, stop, wait for the wave to pass me by, then turn around and idle back to the rider. I never take on water and seldom gets tossed around from the wave.
One of 2 things going on. You’re a better driver than me, or you play on lakes with more options. Guess it could be both though.
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Originally posted by rmorrow View PostZack, in your experience would you dump a lot of water when pulling your plug? He can’t find a leak so He thinks that has to be it?
Running the bilge, and dumping ballast, are both much, much more effective while moving, and running nose high, Taps at 8. If I’m taking off to hit another spot, or end of the day, I’ll drain both and get as much water out as I can. I don’t always wait for the auto ballast to kick on. Getting rid of excess water has just become part of my routine, and I’m used to it, where it drove me insane the first summer.
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If you're coming back fast you can get some water in the surf locker. When we're out practicing tricks I tend to fall a lot lol and with an empty boat you can cut the throttle and turn the wheel and the boat will spin pretty good without making any waves. Doing this does send a but in the locker.
Another thing to look at would be your surf pipe, mine never seems to stay sealed, dealer is adding through bolts this winter.
I think I mentioned this before but lift up your hatches in the rear lockers and check to see if the fitings on the subfloor bags are intact, I have replaced both of mine.
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I am researching the GSA tabs for use on a 2018 RZX3 w/ Raptor 440. From what I can tell, i am convinced the GSA is a good upgrade, especially when i visually look at the difference between the OEM plates and the GSA.
This is my first boat and I didnt buy it until Aug of this year so I didnt get much time in the water. I spent most of my time driving and only played with the wave on my non-kid weekends. The friend of mine that surfs well rides goofy so I have zero time working on anything other than the goofy side. The wave is either short/steep or longer but it rolls over and isnt super super clean all the way back. I have 1150# of lead in the boat and have it mixed between the bow, under the tower and in the rear lockers.
Questions/Concerns:
I want a super clean install. I am getting some other gel coat fixed in January and would prefer to remove the OEM tabs and get all those holes fixed at the same time. My question is, do you re-use any of the OEM holes with the new GSA tabs?
On my boat, will I reuse the OEM actuators, wiring harness and touch screen controls?
Is there a brand thruster that is best to go with? I will install that at the same time.
Also, are these transom lights RGB or just white ?
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If you want to reuse the taps holes you will need to purchase some piano hinge and drill holes in it that line up to the GSA holes on the new tabs and then drill holes that line up with the holes in the transom. I assume you are a welder. You can weld the new hinge to the tab like I did and save some drilling. You may be able to get GSA to send you their hinge with no holes in it. That would be cool. In short, I welded my hinges to the tabs and then drilled the other side to reuse the holes already in the transom. For the upper actuator holes I made a SS cover to cover them up so they stayed available to reuse. Your holes are inside the swim deck mount and even more hidden. I just cover them up. Then dill a new hole for the wiring when you mount the actuator in the new spot.
You will reuse all those parts. The boat doesn't know or care what tab it's controlling. Your surf numbers on the screen may be different than what you are used to though, after the install. Simply because the wave may build up at a different actuator length.
I think the jury is still out on thrusters. They are a pretty new thing.
Those transom lights are RGB. I don't use mine much but as I recall quickly turning them on/off will bring up a new color each time.
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Those do not look like the Lumitec SeaBlaze Spectrum, but rather the SeaBlaze-3. Likely the dual-color.
I would first make sure you are not dealing with an actuator issue now. Changing plates will not fix an actuator issue.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Guys, I've only had my '17 RZX3 for a month before the end of the season. A few things I've noticed. I think I have plug'n'play 400's which I think I'll upgrade but I never seemed to get the wave I desired last year. 150lbs lead in the front and 100lbs lead in port rear locker. Any help is appreciated here. Also, I pulled the 2-Tsunami pumps for the rears and installed the new 2000GPH live well pumps from Shurflo and they fit perfectly. I moved the 2 extra tsunamis to the drain line in tandem on the drain line in the rear lockers with the other 2 tsunamis so hopefully, this will speed up the filling and draining process. If anyone wants pics let me know. I also noticed that the ZX option was off in dealer settings so I had a full mid hull starboard bag that wasn't draining, now it's good. I came from a MC X15 and X10 and always had the mid hull drain so I really miss that. I removed the bildge pump from the back and installed it right behind the fuel tank under the floor panel hoping to rid the boat of unwanted water that doesn't make it to the rear bildge. Couple questions for you guys that are long time Tige guys:
1. It sounds like you all recommend the GSA tabs and worth the $5000?
2. Where do I find the exhaust pipe for the rear of the boat?
3. Do you guys notice the boat is shitty at cutting waves and handles like a land yacht?
4. Do any of you feel like the nose wants to dive? Maybe I'm not used to a pickel fork.
I know this is a **** ton of information, I'm just trying to feel comfortable with the boat and get it to surf otherwise I think she might be on the chopping block.
2017 RZX3
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1. It sounds like you all recommend the GSA tabs and worth the $5000? Since you have a 17, you might not need everything that comes with the full GSA purchase. I don't want to put a price tag on where it's no longer worth it, that's really a judgement call on the purchaser. I will say this though - GSA was a game changer for us.
2. Where do I find the exhaust pipe for the rear of the boat? Fresh Air Exhaust (FAE). Good People, GREAT product.
3. Do you guys notice the boat is shitty at cutting waves and handles like a land yacht? Driving these boats includes a learning curve. They are not nearly as bad at cutting waves once you learn how to do it.
4. Do any of you feel like the nose wants to dive? Maybe I'm not used to a pickel fork. Check your TAPs setting... may have something to do with this.
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1. You only need the tabs and hinges from GSA. You reuse everything else.
2. FAE
3. Driving skill will help cutting waves, but the shape of the hull still wants to go over waves and kick up spray. With any wind in your face, you will get wet.
4. The shape of the bow is curved down, so it looks bow down no matter what. This helps a ton with visibility, but gives a sense of being bow heavy. Of course you could still be bow heavy if your front bags are full or you have lots of weight up front.
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Good to know about the GSA tabs. I certainly did get wet a few times last year but I'm used to a traditional bow and deep v hull so this is really good information. I don't think I've given the boat a proper chance yet it just feels like I'm working on everything to get it the way I want. Both my Mastercrafts didn't seem to require the exhaust downpipe either so this is something else I need to add as there was a number of times last year I lost camera vision with the rider. IMG_20200828_142532.jpg2017 RZX3
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Those guys are on point with everything they said.
I’ll be about $1500 into GSAs when I’m done.
I’ve had a couple of days that we got caught at the far end of a lake, when a nasty storm rolled in super quick, and you have to just eat water to get back, or wait it out. A lot of that comes with just knowing the weather and the way storms hit your lakes. The 2 worst days I had were both my fault, because I thought I knew better. If that wind is blowing into your bow, and there are big waves, there’s no getting around getting absolutely soaked.
I keep lead in my bow, and a lot of times people hop up there, so mine can ride annoying low in the bow. With good driving, you can avoid 95% of taking water over the bow. I still get one, once in awhile, usually because of something another boater not paying attention is doing. The one piece of advice I can give on keeping the bow dry is to stop when your rider drops, and let the waves clear for a second, don’t try a power turn through your wave, like you could do with wakeboarding boats for a long time. That will get your bow wet a whole bunch of the time.
There is a decent learning curve to the RZX line, and probably a bunch of other boats, but once you figure it all out, they’re pretty good all around.
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